LordFlux

I'm in the process of installing an ATI Superdamper and upon removal of my stock crank pulley, I noticed that the crankshaft front oil seal is looking pretty bad. I would like to replace this seal, but what is the best way to remove the seal from the timing cover without taking the timing cover off? I fought with it a little tonight, but didn't get anywhere. Any tips on getting that thing out?

wrencher

iTrader: (2)

You can use a screw driver to carefullly pry it out. Once you get it to move a little it'll pop right out. Make sure to put some grease on the lip of the new seal so as it doesn't start up dry.

Krab

iTrader: (28)

To replace the front seal, you have to take the timing cover off. There's no way around it. The seal is taken off from the back side and installed the same way. You'd have to take off the crank pulley, water pump, then unbolt the timing cover.

Richie Carbone

iTrader: (3)

The seal CAN be removed with the cover in place, get yourself a seal pulling tool and see if you can find someone that has the LS1 specific Kent Moore front seal installer. The tool is designed to install the seal with the cover bolted to the motor.

LordFlux

I have a tool to press the seal into the timing cover... just a matter of getting this old one out.

Richie, you mentioned a seal pulling tool. Is this something generic? Or a GM tool?

As for using a screwdriver, do I need to use a small one to pry between the outer diameter of the seal and the timing cover? Is that the best way to do it?

P Mack

iTrader: (6)

I have always heard to not lube the new seal up. I didn't and no leaks so far.

felton316

Yes, the seals are to be installed dry. They have teflon in them that gets transfered during initial startup. By using a lube the teflon will not transfer and will hinder the sealing process.

Richie Carbone

iTrader: (3)

You can pick one up at Pep boys or Sears for and $10-$15 .....it looks like a flat hammer. It's designed to hook into the seal and you just use leverage and pry it out of there.

Ferocity02

iTrader: (60)

I used a flat-head screwdriver and a hammer, but I took the cover off. Oh, and I heated up the cover with a torch to make it easier to get out. Don't heat it up to put on the new seal, or it might melt the seal.

Krab

iTrader: (28)

That's weird, when I did my cam install, I didn't see how it would come off without unbolting the whole cover. Maybe I was just too damn stressed out though to really pay attention to it. Sorry for the mis-information.

LordFlux

Picked up a seal remover/puller from Auto Zone tonight and pulled that front oil seal out with no problem. Tried pulling on the seal from head on, but I couldn't ever get the puller to grip the seal. Approached the seal at an angle, using the crank as leverage and the seal popped right out. When I saw that I was able to get a grip doing it at an angle, I got 3 shop rags and wrapped around the crank snout and proceeded to use the puller. No scuffs or marks on the crank or timing cover... and the seal is out -- perfecto.

Sure glad I didn't have to take the water pump off. Thanks guys.

G Atsma

This thread is about a Gen III LS, not a Gen II LT. LS engines do not use optispark. They are coil-on-plug

Kitt_Down_Under

Sorry. Thanks for letting me know

Che70velle

iTrader: (6)

For what it’s worth, you don’t have to drain the oil.