cadben49

Hello I picked up a 150k LQ9 short block recently. I am about to get it disassembled and cleaned at my machine shop, so far I have a set of reman 243 heads, summit trunnion upgrade, TBSS intake with 90mm TB and flex fuel blue injectors, x link, Melling HP HV oil pump, TSP stage III high lift truck cam, PAC 1219 springs, LS7 lifters and trays, saccity billet barbell, hardened 7.400 pushrods, and a pickup tube brace. It’s going in my daily driver 05 z71 Silverado, any thing I should change (trying to keep it as budget friendly as possible) or alter before I put it in or does this sound like a solid build? And if so what kind of numbers do you think I should expect out of this with a good tune? Thankyou

Ls7colorado

iTrader: (3)

A higher stall converter, even a cheap 6 cylinder trailblazer converter would be better than the stock truck one with that cam.
Also if the Lq9 really only has 150K on it there is NO WAY I would be tearing it apart if it came from a running vehicle and looks clean inside.

cadben49

so you think my best bet is to not even touch the block? It is pretty dirty but it came out of a running 150k Escalade. And just curious why wouldn’t you? Thankyou

Ls7colorado

iTrader: (3)

Was there any sludge in the heads? 150K is nothing , since you have it on a stand pull the pan and see if its clean. Ive said it a hundred times, I have seen WAY more failures from "rebuilt" engines than from junkyard engines.
People just seem to think they need to have it rebuilt so its new, when in fact the shortblock will outlast the truck.

cadben49

I actually bought it without the original heads so hard to tell there. And without the pan, there was minor buildup around the crank but nothing crazy. And I was able to get most of the buildup off of the pistons with some WD-40 and a microfiber. Main thing that concerns me is there is some minor surface oxidation in the cooling jackets. And I actually just ordered a Circle D 3000-3200 stall, I knew I was forgetting something. Thankyou for reminding me

Ls7colorado

iTrader: (3)

Well its up to you, if it was running when it was pulled I personally wouldn't touch the rotating assembly

EddieK

When I pulled mine from Escalade I had it rebuild for a peace of mind. Kept the rotating assembly stock, crank polished, new bearings, new rings, ARP on rods, ARP on heads, hone, new trays, hardened pushrods, Cam Motion Titan 4 cam, LS7 lifters, BTR springs, CHE trunnion upgrade, TBSS intake, LS3 TB, flex fuel injectors etc.
Converter is Circle D 245mm 3400 stall.
Love the way it drives.

Stampede4ever

If it's not broke, don't fix it!
Just saying.

G Atsma

Boom.....

cadben49

that thing is sick, very similar setup to mine except mine is going in a 4x4 daily pickup. I’m excited to see how it goes.

cadben49

I guess I’ll keep the block untouched, the gunk worried me a little bit but I’m honestly nowhere near as experienced in this as you guys so I will take your word on it. It saves me a pretty penny anyway, do you think I should try to clean it in any way before putting it in or just bolt it up as is? It’s not too bad but I’ve never really done anything internal before especially all the way down to the short block

RedXray

I understand those saying "leave it alone" or "you'll let the magic out"

My 120,000 LQ9 was fairly clean looking inside.

The Truck it was going in I've garage kept the last 19 years and I keep it as clean as possible interior, exterior and under the hood. I wanted the LQ9 to match the cleanliness of the truck inside and out. Pull the dipstick on a "used" engine and clean oil gets brownish pretty fast. I did a simple rebuild rings, bearings, oil pump etc. Runs strong to the 7000 RPM limiter.

68Formula

I've heard a high volume oil pump can actually suck the sump dry, and go with just a higher pressure pump. Don't know if this is internet myth. Maybe someone can chime in with more information.

G Atsma

Internet myth. The volume isn't enough higher to come close to doing that, though most people do not need a high volume pump, unless their particular engine is built with looser clearances. High pressure is good though.

cadben49

so do you think a HP HV pump is worth it for my build or would just a HP be plenty?

Ls7colorado

iTrader: (3)

WOW....... I couldnt imagine having enough time for that!!

RedXray

I have the standard M295 with 45 psi idle and 65 psi at 2000 rpm cruising speed.

The HV & HP pumps are designed for wider engine bearing clearances. Both the HV & HP pumps have longer drive and idler shafts for better support than the standard M295. I've read the f-body guys sometimes overfill to 7 quarts to ensure the hv pumps don't drain the sump. With the camshaft (you listed above) peak RPM's ... I can't see see a mild build sucking the truck pan empty with the HV or HP pump.

G Atsma

VVT and DOD/AFM engines use high volume pumps and the same oil pans as "normal" engines, and are never in danger of sucking the pan dry. Internet BS...

cam

iTrader: (9)

Im finding it very hard to get good stock runable gen 3 motors now. They are all pooched. Gen IV hit and miss but more miss than hit there too unfortunately. If the cylinders dont have any ghosting and there is still good cross hatch in them your probably ok. Anytime I buy an engine that someone else has been wrenching on? I go over all of it. Most of the time now its grind crank, hone cyls, new pistons/rings and bearings, oil pump and LS2 chain and go! Just have to use a good engine shop this is inexpensive to have done and then your basically good as new. Head work is easy, valve guides seldom need replacing. New Delco LS7 lifters and some moly pushrods. Stock rockers no trunions here yet, never had a rocker failure so to me thats also internet myth. Been beating the living hell out of LS motors for a long time now too. No rocker arm failures. Imo most of the so called issues with rockers are related to assembly errorr or other valve train issues. Seen plenty of broken springs though on stockers. Crack at the bottom and they still work just sit on top of the broken bit.

Anyways some info there for ya maybe helps a bit. Good luck

Ls7colorado

iTrader: (3)

Ive been noticing this too, ebay is starting to be the best resource im finding now.
gen3 5.3's are getting too high to not just go ahead and get a 6.0

I have also only ran stock rockers, most with dual springs too and healthy cams, havent had any issues yet.
Although I have replaced an gen4 5.3 in a tahoe that had a rocker arm falure with about 200K on the clock all stock.... go figure It was on cylinder 1 so I duno if the DOD had anything to do with it or not..