Still working on the TR7
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Teching In
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Still working on the TR7 Been quite a while since I've been here. I've been concentrating more on school and helping out at home, but my project is still going. Moved the car to my aunt and uncle's new 3 car garage. They only have two cars and we just don't have the room at home. At least I can park my little truck inside this winter.
Last time I posted I was 99% sure I was going to use an L33. But i have one more question the OCD in me won't let go of. I'm still committed to saving and using quality parts, but i need to plan wisely with my money. If i go the L33 route (and i still want to) I'm going to have to switch to a low profile intake. LS1,LS6,or Dorman LS2 probably. I know there will be other things I'll have to change. Fuel rails, and I think injector mounting, reluctor, wiring harness, and maybe something else. I don't have my notebooks here with me.
Or I could just go with an LS1 pull out from a 2000's GTO and have those issues solved, but at a big up front cost. LSx = LS$.
So the questions are.....
1) How much more work am i looking at to use a "car" intake on the "truck" motor and will the associated cost end up being roughly equal to a pull out LS1?
With the L33 I would be building and upgrading in stages as funds allow. Might cost more in the long run, but not such a big "up front " cost. That and I'll get to see the condition of everything as I go. With the pull out I'd have tear it down anyhow and make any changes, but with the extra HP it won't need any real changes. Just maybe a refresh.
You all have been a great help. Once I make a final decision, I'm in a place that I can start sourcing parts. Once I get going I'll start a proper build thread to track my progress.
Last time I posted I was 99% sure I was going to use an L33. But i have one more question the OCD in me won't let go of. I'm still committed to saving and using quality parts, but i need to plan wisely with my money. If i go the L33 route (and i still want to) I'm going to have to switch to a low profile intake. LS1,LS6,or Dorman LS2 probably. I know there will be other things I'll have to change. Fuel rails, and I think injector mounting, reluctor, wiring harness, and maybe something else. I don't have my notebooks here with me.
Or I could just go with an LS1 pull out from a 2000's GTO and have those issues solved, but at a big up front cost. LSx = LS$.
So the questions are.....
1) How much more work am i looking at to use a "car" intake on the "truck" motor and will the associated cost end up being roughly equal to a pull out LS1?
With the L33 I would be building and upgrading in stages as funds allow. Might cost more in the long run, but not such a big "up front " cost. That and I'll get to see the condition of everything as I go. With the pull out I'd have tear it down anyhow and make any changes, but with the extra HP it won't need any real changes. Just maybe a refresh.
You all have been a great help. Once I make a final decision, I'm in a place that I can start sourcing parts. Once I get going I'll start a proper build thread to track my progress.
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Joined: Jun 2016
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From: Central Cal.
On manifolds- yes on LS6 (some still around at decent prices) or Dorman LS2 (IF you can get it cheap enough)
Either bolts right on. The L33 3 bolt TB will bolt right to the LS6, where the LS2 uses a 4 bolt TB.
If you can find a good LS6 manifold see if you can get the full setup with injectors, fuel rails, etc. Mucho hassle avoided...
Either bolts right on. The L33 3 bolt TB will bolt right to the LS6, where the LS2 uses a 4 bolt TB.
If you can find a good LS6 manifold see if you can get the full setup with injectors, fuel rails, etc. Mucho hassle avoided...
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2020
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Thank for the insight. I knew the Dorman unit was high dollar. Sounds like at one time they were affordable until the Richard H video intake shootout showed it was an improvement over a stock unit. The LS6 unit seems to be the way to go now.
First order of business is finding a long block or at least a short block L33. I tried getting in touch with Randy Yates over in Davenport but he never seems to answer the phone. I hope Covid didn't shut his business down. He's somewhat local and I'd like to find just one place to order parts from. I wonder if anyone knows?
If anyone else has any advice or ideas on the L33 build v LS1 pull out situation I'm all ears. I appreciate all the patience and advice and information you all offer. It doesn't fall on deaf ears.
First order of business is finding a long block or at least a short block L33. I tried getting in touch with Randy Yates over in Davenport but he never seems to answer the phone. I hope Covid didn't shut his business down. He's somewhat local and I'd like to find just one place to order parts from. I wonder if anyone knows?
If anyone else has any advice or ideas on the L33 build v LS1 pull out situation I'm all ears. I appreciate all the patience and advice and information you all offer. It doesn't fall on deaf ears.
Last edited by LS Grasshopper; Sep 14, 2021 at 10:02 AM. Reason: Rotin speeling
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From: Central Cal.
If you want an aluminum 5.3 check into the Gen IV units- LC9, LH6, LH8, and LH9. Some may have DOD/AFM or VVT, or both, either of which can be deleted if desired. You really don't want DOD/AFM. The L33 was sort of a Gen III version of the ones mentioned here.
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Teching In
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Thanks G Atsma LoL. Dragging me farther down the rabbit hole.
I know this is the Gen 3 forum but I had looked at the LC9 at one point. I knew I was deleting the AFM on anything that had it but the VVT interested me until I read it really didn't work with a manual transmission. Something about piston to valve clearance when the RPM's came up when downshifting. The chance to run E-85 every once in a while was interesting too, but it wouldn't be practical on a road trip.
That leaves the LH6 LH8 and LH9. They all fit the HP and torque bill so here's my thinking....
The LH6 is only 10HP more than the other two, but would have the added cost of AFM/VVT delete. Also, with it already having VVT in the ECU, I'm not sure what changes might have to be made there.
The LH8 and LH9 are basically the same engine except the LH9 has VVT and can run E-85. Again, it brings into question the same things as above. Especially, wanting to run a manual transmission. If I can delete the VVT and run a stick behind it then the E-85 thing just becomes an interesting option to have.
The LH8 looks like a Gen 4 L33 basically. I was planning to go the L33 route anyhow. Without AFM or VVT I'm sure I can put a stick behind it without any trouble. And the 10-20 less HP than the other options, it's a moot point. The little car will never notice it and if I do anything like tuning or head work or a cam swap, I get it back and then some.
Would an LH8/9 be easier to find than an L33? Cheaper? Fewer problems? Looks like a need another notebook now. Man OCD sucks. LoL.
I know this is the Gen 3 forum but I had looked at the LC9 at one point. I knew I was deleting the AFM on anything that had it but the VVT interested me until I read it really didn't work with a manual transmission. Something about piston to valve clearance when the RPM's came up when downshifting. The chance to run E-85 every once in a while was interesting too, but it wouldn't be practical on a road trip.
That leaves the LH6 LH8 and LH9. They all fit the HP and torque bill so here's my thinking....
The LH6 is only 10HP more than the other two, but would have the added cost of AFM/VVT delete. Also, with it already having VVT in the ECU, I'm not sure what changes might have to be made there.
The LH8 and LH9 are basically the same engine except the LH9 has VVT and can run E-85. Again, it brings into question the same things as above. Especially, wanting to run a manual transmission. If I can delete the VVT and run a stick behind it then the E-85 thing just becomes an interesting option to have.
The LH8 looks like a Gen 4 L33 basically. I was planning to go the L33 route anyhow. Without AFM or VVT I'm sure I can put a stick behind it without any trouble. And the 10-20 less HP than the other options, it's a moot point. The little car will never notice it and if I do anything like tuning or head work or a cam swap, I get it back and then some.
Would an LH8/9 be easier to find than an L33? Cheaper? Fewer problems? Looks like a need another notebook now. Man OCD sucks. LoL.
Thread Starter
Teching In
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A quick look through car-part and I'm seeing L33 pullouts in the $1000-$1800 range from 100k-200k miles. Some lower prices but much farther away and would have to be shipped. Didn't check something like LKQ yet. L33 blocks were available but way far away. LH8 and LH9 were available for about the same price. Maybe a bit higher. LS1 pullouts were $$$.
The L33 seemed to be the simplest route. Gen 3 with Gen 4 internals and no AFM or VVT to deal with. Plenty of HP and torque. I have no clue about the ECU capabilities (VATS), but it is drive by cable so no special gas pedal to make sure I have.
That being said, what advantage is there to going Gen 4 over Gen 3? Roughly the same specs, size, and weight. Same heads (243/799) and I believe the same pistons. (Flat tops) Maybe an availability issue? The basic plan I have on paper I'm hoping applies to both, but that will come about as I start to build or refurbish whatever I end up with.
I'm still leaning towards the L33 unless I'm missing something real obvious.
Thanks again for all the option advice. Questions are just a process I have to go through to be confident I've looked at all angles.
The L33 seemed to be the simplest route. Gen 3 with Gen 4 internals and no AFM or VVT to deal with. Plenty of HP and torque. I have no clue about the ECU capabilities (VATS), but it is drive by cable so no special gas pedal to make sure I have.
That being said, what advantage is there to going Gen 4 over Gen 3? Roughly the same specs, size, and weight. Same heads (243/799) and I believe the same pistons. (Flat tops) Maybe an availability issue? The basic plan I have on paper I'm hoping applies to both, but that will come about as I start to build or refurbish whatever I end up with.
I'm still leaning towards the L33 unless I'm missing something real obvious.
Thanks again for all the option advice. Questions are just a process I have to go through to be confident I've looked at all angles.
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From: Central Cal.
The L33 that came in trucks (only way they came) are all DBW. All later LS truck engines are DBW. Only the first few years had DBC
I presented all the Gen IV ones above to broaden the choices in case L33's were too rare.
The L33 is an excellent choice.
I presented all the Gen IV ones above to broaden the choices in case L33's were too rare.
The L33 is an excellent choice.
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Teching In
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That puts a lot of questions to bed then. Thanks G Atsma. I don't know why I thought the L33 was drive by cable. SMH. So, the plan now is to find an under 150k mile L33 and start from there, while at the same time keeping an eye out for a good deal on a Gen 4 5.3 .
Is there anything I should pay special attention to or specifically look for in my searches? Parts I may need but haven't thought about. I don't need the truck intake or the accessories so that helps. Gas pedal and maybe the ECU? Or can they be sourced from anywhere? The wiring harness will be a challenge, but that's much farther down the road.
I guess getting to the next step in my plans on paper has me anxious to get started "in the real world" now. Thanks again.
Is there anything I should pay special attention to or specifically look for in my searches? Parts I may need but haven't thought about. I don't need the truck intake or the accessories so that helps. Gas pedal and maybe the ECU? Or can they be sourced from anywhere? The wiring harness will be a challenge, but that's much farther down the road.
I guess getting to the next step in my plans on paper has me anxious to get started "in the real world" now. Thanks again.
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From: Central Cal.
If you find an engine, see if you can get the WHOLE engine harness AND complete gas pedal and wiring. Get as much attached stuff as you can
Once you get it, IF you replace the cam, also go ahead and get new lifters and trays plus cam retainer plate and screws. If keeping the cam the other stuff is a good idea, but not mandatory.
Some things you SHOULD replace are the timing chain (LS2 type) and oil pump (Melling 10295 high pressure).
Around back, a billet barbell is a good idea too. SacCity Corvette invented it, it replaces the plastic one and controls oil pressure better.
If the rockers feel loose at all, put a trunnion kit in. CHE is among the best.
This stuff will freshen it up a bit if it is approaching 2-300k miles
Once you get it, IF you replace the cam, also go ahead and get new lifters and trays plus cam retainer plate and screws. If keeping the cam the other stuff is a good idea, but not mandatory.
Some things you SHOULD replace are the timing chain (LS2 type) and oil pump (Melling 10295 high pressure).
Around back, a billet barbell is a good idea too. SacCity Corvette invented it, it replaces the plastic one and controls oil pressure better.
If the rockers feel loose at all, put a trunnion kit in. CHE is among the best.
This stuff will freshen it up a bit if it is approaching 2-300k miles