Lm7turbo

Hello, I hope you guys can help me. I have a gen 3 5.3 on an engine stand and the time came to buy and replace the factory lifters. I went with genuine gm-LS7 roller lifters from ICT Billet. I soaked the lifters in oil and went about the repair.

I had trouble removing the factory lifters which I believe were all stuck in the bore and I had I had use pliers to remove them. Some were harder thsn others to remove.

Today I made sure the bore was clean and I put assembly lube on the bore, the new ls7 lifters were soaked in oil.

I install them into the new oem trays and try to push them down into the bore and many just will not go down. Why will the lifters in the tray not freely go in? A few of the stuck ones I could tap down with a small piece of wood and hammer. Depending on me turning over the engine by hand. Some of the stuck ones I even tried to remove and gave up, they were fighting me so hard. Not a single ls7 lifter could freely move in the bore it was either pull them out with pliers or knock them down with a hammer and wood.

What is wrong here? what can I do?

ideas and thoughts appreciated.
thank you

theunderlord

How did you clean the lifter bores? Possible there could still be a ridge of oil in there that is giving you trouble.

Lm7turbo

Wiped a brand new tooth brush down there with a little assembly lube in it.

Didn't feel bad the small are you can reach your finger in

ETA: I only installed two trays(8) lifters on one side today.

RB04Av

Use WD-40 on your toothbrush and scrub the lifter bores REAL GOOD with it. Then maybe a wipe of assy lube or a schmeeeer of motor oil afterwards.

tblentrprz

Why were the originals difficult to pull? Did the lifter body legs for the axle spread out? Did the bore get scored causing high spots impacting install? Just some thoughts.

grinder11

iTrader: (1)

If this is an iron block, you may get lucky. If it's an aluminum block, you may have severely damaged the lifter bore! Even with an iron block, you may have scored the lifter bores. Good rule of thumb-NEVER force anything. If it won't go in or come out, there is a good reason!!! Old lifters were probably slightly damaged, and wouldn't come out without pliers, which you should never have to use!! When they came out, you buggered up the lifter bore, and now the good ones won't go in!! If this is an iron block, you may be OK to CAREFULLY knock the high spots down with a round honing stone. Do you have.a micrometer?


EDIT!!!! An additional thing is this; as posted by another member, many times the reason they won't come out is because the lifter has 'spread' at the 2 axle mount points. It is also possible that an axle has 'walked' sideways, which would impede removal, and cause damage if forced. You may be able to CAREFULLY install an OLD lifter upside down (roller wheel facing up), and gently tap it down into the lifter bore. Just be very carefull how far you tap it in, and how hard you tap on it. This method MAY 'scrape' enough of the high points down to allow the new lifter to be installed correctly. Should be a shiny spot where the burr was/is. NOTE!!! If it buggers up the lifter body, it will damage the lifter bore on removal, too!! So that method would only be viable on one lifter bore,, IF that scenario takes place. The LS engines oil the lifters first, one feature on them I personally do not care for. Any significant damage there allows for oil pressure to bleed off, which is not good!!! You have a serious situation there. I hope the lifters you did get installed went in easily, which is the only way they should!!! Best of luck to you......

Lm7turbo

I bought the engine from a local junkyard fkr a build, it was running bedore they totaled the truck I trust the guy that I bought the engine from as he was going to use it for his build.
I don't see any expansion of the stockers or broken parts on them. The oem ones were tough to get out and I had to use pliers and a few pulls to try and get them up. I knew I was going with new lifters so I didn't really worry about ruining the top part of the cup with the pliers.

This is an iron block gen 3 5.3 truck engine

Lm7turbo

Thank you for the thoughts. This is an iron gen 3 5.3 truck engine I bought from the junkyard for my first ls build. I Cleaned the bores of debris and checked with my light and ran my fingers down as far as possible and couldn't feel any surface imperfections. What sucks is that it is cylinder 8 and I can't get my pliers in a food spot or angle to get the lifter pulled back out without running the brand new ls7 lifter. I can try if needed to remove the cam as it is on an engine stand if need be but I believe a new lifter will be just as hard to try and put in that spot. I'm also wondering if I can use it as is? I need to hit it down with a hammer for it to go down, but it does freely go up when the cam lobe is turned.

Thank you all and please help me get this project working. Appreciate the help

theunderlord

Try using a strong magnet to pull the lifter out, you might be able to get it out that way.

Lm7turbo

Thank you all for your help. I'm trying to use this engine and not give up on this project. I can get some to slide in with less friction than others. I pulled the cam back out and had to tap the stuck lifters through. They were too stuck for a magnet and the corner ones I couldn't lift put with my pliers.

As long as I lube the **** out of the bore with wd40 and get them in with assembly lube I'm all good as long as I can get the tray down with them right? Some are definitely more held up than others trying to slide in. As long as they get into the bore and the tray fits, can I rely on the cam lobe and the pushrods/rocker arm to make it work on a running engine?

Sorry for the rookie questions, this is my first LS build and I was trying my best with my nephew. I wanted the kid to be proud of what we put together.
I hope I don't fail him.

theunderlord

I think if It were me, I would want to understand why they were sticking in the bores. If you're using new trays, and they're properly seated, they should stay right where they need to, but its still strange why they're not moving more freely.

grinder11

iTrader: (1)

Exactly!! That's why I mentioned a micrometer. It takes only a half thousandths, maybe less, to convert a very good slip fit into a light press fit! I suggested trying the lifters upside down to see if they went in that way. Someone on this forum, or another well known forum, recently got some lifters that were .001" OVERSIZE, and wouldn't even go in the bore!!! Makes you wonder who is making this junk.......

sewerpickle

iTrader: (3)

Your "real" LS7 lifters need to be measured as well as the bores.

grinder11

iTrader: (1)

I once over revved an LS7. It damaged one lifter, by breaking off a piece of lifter body by the roller wheel, and spreading the roller end of the lifter enough so there was no way it would come up. I made a removal tool out of PVC Pipe. Engine was in the car, and I had to pull the cam. PVC pipe was just small enough to go in the came bores. I cut half the pipe off, about 6" in, and this made for a sort of "scoop", looking at it from the end. I pushed the pipe in to the rear of the engine, then simply pushed the lifter down until it fell into the scoop part. Then I pulled the pipe, holding the lifter, out the front. Worked great. You have advantages with the motor on the stand that I didn't have with the engine installed.........

Lm7turbo

that's quite the tool you made. I am lucky to have it on an engine stand right now I agree. I need to rethink things and how I how I can get this to work.

grinder11

iTrader: (1)

You need to measure the new lifters outside diameter (O.D.) to verify they're all the same! If you verify all is well there, you have a variance on the lifter bores (I.D.) that shouldnt be there......

1FastBrick

iTrader: (16)

You can try loading the lifters 1 at a time to make sure they go in and move freely then line them up for the trays. Do NOT force the trays onto the Lifters... You will damage them.

As mentioned check the Bore I.D. to the New lifter O.D. to see where you are.

Worst case You may need to run a 7/8 Ball hone through the lifter bores to clean them up. If that's the case, you will have to tear the block down and clean it thoroughly afterwards. you do not want any of the abrasive in the motor oil gallies or on the parts. It will destroy the engine.

DrayNova

I had a lifter that was like that. I soaked it in wd40 and was able to remove it with some channel locks. It ran fine after I put the new lifters in.