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New Timing chain - Is this normal???

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Old 11-19-2022, 05:42 AM
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Default New Timing chain - Is this normal???

2nd new chain I have purchased. Is this a normal/acceptable amount of free play?


Old 11-19-2022, 10:42 AM
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Negative.

I bought one like that recently- luckily, my buddy had another new one handy, so I just swapped it.

Sometimes decking the block can cause a bit of slack, but that looks like a ton.
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Old 11-19-2022, 10:51 AM
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Rotate the cam sprocket until the chain is snug on the right side, as that’s the tension side. There’s more chain damper on the left side for this purpose, and a little more room on that side over to the oil pump boss. See what the chain slack looks like there. Keep in mind that block will grow when up to temp about .008 or so. Doesn’t sound like much but when pulling up on a closed chain, you can double that amount as that what the chain actually sees. I will say that this chain looks to have more slack than normal in the picture, with it relaxed on the tension side.
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Old 11-19-2022, 12:12 PM
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Thanks all for the replies.

It is frustrating to buy a chain and have it this slack. It was brand new in a GM bag. The trouble is as far as I can see, there's nothing to stop me wasting the same amount of money again to find exactly the same issue

I can't see what I can do about it.
Old 11-19-2022, 12:20 PM
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It's a shame they don't make the tensioners with varied amount of offset on the untensioned side to counteract sloppy chains.
Old 11-19-2022, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by TableLeg
It's a shame they don't make the tensioners with varied amount of offset on the untensioned side to counteract sloppy chains.
You can get the LS3/L92/LY6 style that is spring loaded to keep slack at bay, but it is problematic and usually throws the spring off and it lands in the oil pan ultimately. I’ve thought about designing and marketing a new style tensioner a thousand times for this platform, but I’ve been lazy about that. I should get busy with this. Maybe make some retirement money….

Last edited by Che70velle; 11-19-2022 at 12:26 PM. Reason: I can’t spell…
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Old 11-19-2022, 12:51 PM
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That's not right. Most of the time a new chain will be so tight it's hard to get it all to fit together.

Decking the block can't affect anything to do with the timing chain. It doesn't move the cam close to the crank. Which is the ONLY possible block machine work effect that could affect the chain tension; something such as align-boring the main bearing bore. But even that only moves the crank a couple of .001"s closer to the cam, NOWHERE NEAR the amount of slop you've got there. I've seen 200k mile factory motors that had less than that. Something is BIG TIME WRONG with your setup, but it's not completely obvious what it is.

What chains and sprocket sets do you have? Have you tried a TIMING SET, rather than merely putting a new random chain on some random sprockets?

As mentioned, there are "tensioners" that actually "tension" the chain with spring pressure, but they're well and widely known to be a long-term reliability issue. What you have there is far better.
Old 11-19-2022, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by n2xlr8n66
Negative.

I bought one like that recently- luckily, my buddy had another new one handy, so I just swapped it.

Sometimes decking the block can cause a bit of slack, but that looks like a ton.
Line boring the mains, not decking.
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Old 11-19-2022, 12:58 PM
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I got this response from Cloyes. It's for a 4.3, it would be nice if someone made similar to this for the LS's. This is after trying their regular set, a Mellings, and some brand the part store sells. They all fit the exact same as the 104,000 stock one.

As you can also see the regular guys answer wasn't correct.

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Old 11-19-2022, 12:58 PM
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Tension moved to the opposite side


I also notice the alignment dots are now very slightly off.
Old 11-19-2022, 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by RB04Av
That's not right. Most of the time a new chain will be so tight it's hard to get it all to fit together.

Decking the block can't affect anything to do with the timing chain. It doesn't move the cam close to the crank. Which is the ONLY possible block machine work effect that could affect the chain tension; something such as align-boring the main bearing bore. But even that only moves the crank a couple of .001"s closer to the cam, NOWHERE NEAR the amount of slop you've got there. I've seen 200k mile factory motors that had less than that. Something is BIG TIME WRONG with your setup, but it's not completely obvious what it is.

What chains and sprocket sets do you have? Have you tried a TIMING SET, rather than merely putting a new random chain on some random sprockets?

As mentioned, there are "tensioners" that actually "tension" the chain with spring pressure, but they're well and widely known to be a long-term reliability issue. What you have there is far better.
Thanks for the reply. I haven't changed the sprocket as it doesn't look particularly worn. It's only a pretty much stock motor and having a refresh so figured I put on a new chain to the standard x24 sprocket.
Old 11-19-2022, 01:16 PM
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I've been running this for 5 years now.
These timing marks are aligned. It looks to have the same amount of slack if you look at the distance between the chain and tensioner bolt.

You should align it dot to dot, it's easier.

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Old 11-19-2022, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by BigBlackCamaro
I've been running this for 5 years now.
These timing marks are aligned. It looks to have the same amount of slack if you look at the distance between the chain and tensioner bolt.

You should align it dot to dot, it's easier.
Thanks for the reply and the photo. I would agree your chain looks like it would be the same as mine if you didn't have the different type of tensioner. I did buy one of these but cancelled the order after reading numerous stories of them falling apart and ending up in the oil pan.

Just to add, I haven't lined it dot to dot yet as it is only temporarily fitted whilst I wait for the cam thrust plate screws.

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Old 11-19-2022, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Che70velle
I’ve thought about designing and marketing a new style tensioner a thousand times for this platform, but I’ve been lazy about that. I should get busy with this. Maybe make some retirement money….
Wouldn't be difficult to design. Be nice to have a slot on the left side and the tensioner in 2 halves so that the lefthand side slides apart from each other. It could then be moved to the right to take up some of the space to the chain.

Any idea what exactly the material spec is (other than just looking like plastic)?

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Old 11-19-2022, 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by che70velle
.................
.. I’ve thought about designing and marketing a new style tensioner a thousand times for this platform...............
I should get busy with this...
Maybe make some retirement money….
.................................................. ............................................do it !
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Old 11-19-2022, 03:32 PM
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After seeing the pic with the slack on the non-tension side, I’d run it. Looks about right. That’s a really good C7R chain, and come “pre stretched”. Again, block will grow a bit. Send it.
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Old 11-19-2022, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Che70velle
After seeing the pic with the slack on the non-tension side, I’d run it. Looks about right. That’s a really good C7R chain, and come “pre stretched”. Again, block will grow a bit. Send it.
Thanks
Old 11-19-2022, 07:13 PM
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I've seen comments that once the rockers and push rods are installed that the chain tension improves although I don't really see how that would make much difference, but I ran across that comment more than once.
Old 11-19-2022, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by BigBlackCamaro
Line boring the mains, not decking.

Yes, sorry- been a long week.
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Old 11-21-2022, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Che70velle
After seeing the pic with the slack on the non-tension side, I’d run it. Looks about right. That’s a really good C7R chain, and come “pre stretched”. Again, block will grow a bit. Send it.
That is about normal to what I can say I have seen in my builds, never had a problem.
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