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Hello all, my balancer worked its way loose and left some good gouges on the snout. Is this something I can pin and add a new balancer or will I need a crank?
Questions:
1) Belt driven supercharger application?
2) occasional low RPM use, ie farm truck, trash hauler - or is this a high RPM hot rod, or daily driver that has to get your wife to work every day ?
If it was a TOY, I'd take some good sharp files, clean up the snout and put a new balancer on there, with an ARP bolt, drill it, pin it and GO.
If it was my WIFE's daily, I'd go pull a low mileage LQ4 from junkyard for 900 or a thousand bucks, and change engines.
Looks to me like there's too much metal missing for it to work right as-is.
Needs a pin or a key, which even that, would be a significant risk if the damper still didn't fit tight; or, just another crank. I think I'd replace it if it was mine.
I’d pull the front cover and clean up the crank with 400grit wet sandpaper. Get any metal transfer off. Just don’t get crazy. And I always pin these engine no matter the application.
Throw a seal at it before you re-install. When a damper walks off like this, there’s wobbling involved, which damages the seal. In my opinion, that crank looks pretty bad. I’d be surprised if the damper stays true to the crank. Worth a shot however.
Also keep in mind here that snout to damper interference fit is what keeps that damper from spinning on the snout. It’s not about how tight you can possibly tighten an ARP crank bolt. If the fit is okish, I’d pin the damper anyway. Use a couple drops of blue loctite on the crank bolt to keep it from backing out. I always blue loctite that bolt, on any engine, on every build. Hopefully your ok here and back to playing in the sand soon.
Might make sense once you get the new balancer installed and pinned to get a dial indicator on the pulley to see how much if any run out you might have.
Might make sense once you get the new balancer installed and pinned to get a dial indicator on the pulley to see how much if any run out you might have.
Might also be a good idea to get an indicator on the crank itself. It looks pretty rough to me. But in a race car, sand or street, you may be able to pin it and be good. Someone on another forum has a Comp Cams valvespring micrometer (1.600-2.200), a pushrod length checker, and 2 crank pinning setups FS, all for $150. Hope this helps.....
Unfortunately, the pump sucked up a bunch of the metal from the balancer and snout and sent it through the bearings. I will be parting out what isn’t damaged and stepping up to an ls3.
Unfortunately, the pump sucked up a bunch of the metal from the balancer and snout and sent it through the bearings. I will be parting out what isn’t damaged and stepping up to an ls3.
That stinks. What engine is this one that’s hurt? I’m always looking to buy stuff. PM me if you want.
That stinks. What engine is this one that’s hurt? I’m always looking to buy stuff. PM me if you want.
It is an LS1. Was a gm crate motor in 2007. Has a mild cam, cnc ported 243s, and a Dorman ls6 intake. Block is good, I pulled a main and saw it is scarred pretty good. Interested in moving all of it, minus the oil pan.
The pump gets it first, scarfing up the gears and housing. I doubt it got to the bearings with the filter in between...
Right. That's why I'm wondering why the filter didn't catch it? That's what the filter is there for. The only way I can figure the filter didnt catch it would be because the bypass valve is partially open. If that's the case..... That or so much crap went thru it plugged the filter, then the bypass opened......
01-12-2024, 02:44 PM
Crank Snout Damage 
That or so much crap went thru it plugged the filter, then the bypass opened......