When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So I did a leak down because car was down a bunch of power, finally did a leak down and got these results. Pistons did contact the valves so I’m expecting valves of course considering the results. Now I’m debating if it’s worth the hassle of just buying fresh heads and doing PTV check before start up, I know the current heads are milled just don’t remember how much. But anyways given the leak down results, lmk what yall think. Any advice will be very much appreciated!
So I did a leak down because car was down a bunch of power, finally did a leak down and got these results. Pistons did contact the valves so I’m expecting valves of course considering the results. Now I’m debating if it’s worth the hassle of just buying fresh heads and doing PTV check before start up, I know the current heads are milled just don’t remember how much. But anyways given the leak down results, lmk what yall think. Any advice will be very much appreciated!
I would just get some new valves and have the heads refreshed, but that's just me.
I would just get some new valves and have the heads refreshed, but that's just me.
Which heads do you have right now?
I have 243s that I bought back in 2013, bought them off here used. I know the dude had them ported and milled just don’t remember how much they were milled tbh. The only cylinder that leaked air thru the dipstick and oil fill was cylinder 1, but I’m sure one of the valves leaks too since all 8 have valve marks 😂.
I'm with dixiebandit69 on this one. I assume you know why the pistons and valves decided to kiss??
If not, I guess I'd get that figured out first.
right on, I’m assuming because of the milled heads and the lift on my cam, maybe valve float or incorrect pushrod length? This time around I’m do the work my self and make sure it’s done right.
as others have said, gotta tear it down to know for sure what the course of action would be and definitely check ptv clearance when putting it back together
and as far as not knowing how decked the heads are you could CC the chambers and that would give you a ballpark compared to what others have for CC with .030", .040" etc cut off them
"I’m assuming"... First mistake.
Do an autopsy as you take it apart.
oh I for sure will, waiting for the rain to go away since I don’t have the car in a garage. But I’ll definetly be taking out the cam, heads and lifters.
as others have said, gotta tear it down to know for sure what the course of action would be and definitely check ptv clearance when putting it back together
and as far as not knowing how decked the heads are you could CC the chambers and that would give you a ballpark compared to what others have for CC with .030", .040" etc cut off them
when checking ptv, do you use solid lifters for it? Or can I use regular hydraulic lifters with check springs on the valves?
I always take hydraulic lifters and disassemble them and stack some washers below the plunger to make them "solid". Then you know the internal spring isn't collapsing any as you rotate the engine. Obviously, make sure you remove the washers before using them, or have a pair dedicated just to degreeing/ptv checking. Paint dab the top of them with a paint marker so you know they're not to be used for anything else.