Trying to decide between the tsp torquer v2 or the tsp Tsunami v2. Wanting to keep stock heads, ls6 intake, headers/full exhaust and a 4k stall. This is a daily but i want to make it aggressive from both a dig and a roll, any suggestions on what to pick?

cam specs:
torquer v2 - 232/234 .600"/.600" 112LSA
tsunami v2 - 235/240 .629"/.615" 111LSA

 

More duration and lift gets the... What size bore are you working with?

 

Just a stock bottom end ls1

 

maybe split the difference and go with a torquer v4. I think it's 231/234, .629, .615, 111

Or summit has a cam that's had great results. The 8710. 230/242, .625, .605, 113

 

For a street car I'd look for a cam with low overlap. Something with 4 or 5 degrees of overlap drives better than a cam with 10 degrees of overlap.

 

Have you considered the Titan 4 LS1 Camshaft (227/232-113+4)

 

If you're looking at just those 2 grinds, the torquer v2 would be better for a daily.....

 

You're leaving a ton of potential on the table if you don't port the heads. Unless you're in some class that requires unported heads, this would make a huge difference.

 

You are right, I agree with you.

 

And this matters to this thread HOW?? Mr. BOT??

 

You are correct IF the tuner isn't highly skilled. It is harder to do a good driveability tune on higher overlap cams than lower ones. However, a real good tuner cannot be overemphasized. A real good tuner can make a higher overlap cam exhibit better street manners than a half-assed tuner can with a low overlap cam. Locating that skilled tuner is key. The guy I use, Rich Gala@Motor City Speed, is damn awful good. The last cam he tuned for had 17° of overlap, and was on a 12° LSA. Yes, it was in a 427, but regardless, you would probably be surprised at how docile it was. This was also in an A4 C5......

 

Guys like your tuner are worth their weight in gold.
Gotta love the ones who KNOW!

 

That Torquer V2 is very close to what I have. I also have a 2600 RPM stall converter. I personally wouldn't like a 4000 RPM.

What rear gear have you got?

 

Yes they are. This tuner and his engine builder partner, Billy Briggs, started out at Wheel to Wheel Powertrain. W2W was a Helluva shop. When 2008 took out a lot of these companies, they bought the Mustang dyno W2W had, and went out on their own, and now own Motor City Speed. They had a big hand in Kurt Urbans Nova, if you guys remember that car. I was pretty good at carbs and ignition timing tuning. But, Hell, I'd probably burn up my computerized fuel injected motor if I tried tuning it myself!!!

 

Brings back memories. Had my car dynoed at W2W back in the day. Really nice facility, and seemed like a solid crew, and great to talk with. Didn't know the economy took them out, since I had moved prior. Sad it went that direction.

 

OP, Is this your first camshaft?

You shouldn't be looking at intake durations in the 230's for your first camshaft especially something on this street you will regret it. Once the good valve train stuff, springs and such are in there to support the cam the hard work is done for a while The cam stab is less tedious compared to changing the springs

​​​​​ The bigger the cam the bigger converter makes a lot of noise going up hills below 40 mph wherever the converter can't lock and it wants to be in 3rd or 4th gear so you're going to be hitting the stall speed to keep up with traffic It's pretty embarrassing struggling not to use to much pedal to keep up with the minivan in the next lane on a hill at 3000+ rpm with a loud exhaust keep that in mind

Start with some sanity, Don't give away every last pound foot below 4K get something 212 -224 degree range and then buy a bigger one every year like the rest of us

Most tuners will recommend what they have tuned before that hasn't come back, others don't care and will just tune WOT and tell you it drives bad like that because of the cam and there's nothing to do about it so don't don't be fooled

 

I agree with you. But I'd say more towards the upper end of your recommendation, like a 222/226.