Engine is a 5.7 ls1 heads cam intake
I'm the process of puting a set of jhonson lifters 2110r. Current pump is a stock ported and shimmed pump. Will the lifters blead of oil presure?
Is there any reason to go to a higher volume pump like a melling 10355?

 

I’d say just bolt a Melling 10295 HPSV pump on, shim it and your fine. The lifters should be fine, not certain what you mean by blead of pressure. Reason why you want to stick with standard volume is because the high volume pump will suck the pan dry. The reason for high volume pumps is for big performance motors. Motors that see a lot of strain and rpm. Your NA LS1 will be fine with a melling 10295 pump.

 

Whether or not you need a high volume pump, the story that it will suck the pan dry is pure BS.
It is not high enough volume to ever do that. I don't know where people get that crap....

 

Really? Guess I learned something new tonight! Must be some 2+2 kind of deal when someone just assumes that a high volume pump means more oil consumption from the pan, but never has proof or experience.

 

Gary is right. I can only imagine that this rumor started somewhere in the distant past, on an engine with limited pan capacity, in a poorly thought out engine build, with a super high volume pump, with the engine running WOT for 5 miles down U.S. 93 between Las Vegas, NV, and Kingman, AZ, some poor soul already 1 quart low on oil managed to pump his pan "dry." If high volume pumps pumped the pan dry, nobody would be making them, as they'd ruin every engine that had one. I've run a Melling 10296 HV pump for almost 20 years, and have never come close to pumping my pan dry. The 10296 is rated at just under 20% (18%, IIRC) more flow than the standard pump.......

 

I LOOOVE the "hypothetical" example! Nothing like a good "worst case scenario"! LOL!

 

Yup, that's an old wife's tale that has been debunked about running the oil sump dry AFAIK.

If you really think about it, all the 6qts. of oil needs to stay on the top end of the engine for a good amount of time simultaneously for that to happen, which seems to me physically impossible. Can't deny gravity.

 

Actually Mike, somewhere during that WOT run out of Vegas (had something to do with a pissed off loan shark btw), the car left the road and ended up on its roof, where it idled for 2-3 minutes before shutting off. That’s why the pan was “dry”…

 

If your only adding the lifters and have not increased the bearing clearance, a standard pump will be just fine. especially if you weren't having oil pressure issues.

I built a motor recently with increased oil clearances and was told I should run the 10296 Pump. Even with the lower pressure spring installed It made too much pressure at WOT and damaged the rear main seal and the oil temp sensor. First we thought the sensor was just bad. Replaced it and same thing, started leaking again. Then I tried replacing the spring with the lower PSI one and another senor, Same issue. After finally replacing the pump with the 10295 and the 3rd sensor is when we noticed it was still leaking at the rear main.

I have the dealer tool kit and it was a new rear cover with seal from the GM dealer that was initially installed. I am sure the 100+PSI oil pressure caused the leak back there. After all it compromised the Sensor too

.0026 -.0028 Mains
.0023 rods
Iron Gen 3 6.0L Block.

10296 was over 60 PSI idle 10-30W and Would peg the gauge under RPM. The results were similar when I put the 10PSI lower pressure spring in. It did Drop and it was harder to peg the gauge but still blew the sensor

10295 was around 50 Psi Idle and around 70 ish PSI 10-30W oil.

 

Guys, this is a bit off topic, but in response to Scott's hypo, my wife and I actually lived thru a 180° flip, which caused the oil light to light up, due to no oil in the pan. Never forget it. February 8th, 1975. First new car I ever bought, a 1974 350 Camaro Type LT. Totally stock, just 17 months old. Hit some black ice at 60+mph on I-75 in Northern Michigan. 2:00 A.M., just off working 2nd shift. Went off the freeway and hit a 2-3 foot deep snow bank. Car flipped upside down, skidded like a saucer on its top, and the windshield became a snow plow. It finally caved in, the glass stopping just short of our necks/faces. I saw a red glowing light on my dash, and quickly realized there was no oil pressure due to being upside down. Car was still idling, and I shut it off ASAP. No damage. Lucky in every way. Wrecker driver said he'd seen a couple of other accidents like ours where the windshield had caved in. He said the occupants had been mostly decapitated!!!

 

Not really doubting you but just curious how you would even know if you ever came close?

 

There's not enough of a volume increase to even get close to sucking the pan dry.
For it to suck the pan dry means a stock pump would be close to doing so, and that ain't happening.

 

I don't doubt you guys. It seemed like he was implying that he could tell how much oil was left in the sump at certain points and I had no idea how you would know that...?

 

Loved the pissed off loan shark!!!

 

Oil pressure. I watch my gauges. If the pump pumped the pan dry, oil pressure would drop accordingly. You'd see cavitating, and a corresponding up and down reading on the gauge. Idiot lights may, or may NOT, show that issue. The LSA and C6 ZR1 engines have a 10355 VERY high volume pump, far more volume than the 10296. They seem just fine. As far as "close" goes, remember the hand grenades/horse shoes cliché.....

 

I guess that was my point. You said it's not even close, like the distance to a dry pan was measurable. It's wet until it's not. Monitoring oil pressure can let you know when it occurs, but it wouldn't let you know whether or not you got close.

 

Abs, I, and others, gave you an answer. It won't matter if it's within 1" or 3 inches. Bottom line is you won't pump your pan dry. Period. Buy what makes you happy. Don't you think I would've had issues since I ran one for 19 years? By all means, If it worries you, don't buy one......

 

Abs- We have tried in every way to tell you that a HV pump WILL NOT SUCK THE PAN DRY.
It's a non-issue. Only believers in urban myths and old wives' tales even bring it up in the hopes that someone will think how smart he is for even bringing it up.

 

In my opinion it wouldn't hurt to run the high volume pump so it keeps up with wear created with lifespan and it will increase oil pressure to the limit of the relief valve in the pan but still increase oil flow in the system to help cooling. Just my thought

 

Based on what I've read, there was an issue with LS3 engines not being to drain the oil back fast enough to the pan and a few Vette engines were destroyed. This happened on road courses. Now maybe there was some other factors at play, I'm not sure. IIRC it was with stock oil pumps.