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Old Jan 14, 2025 | 11:48 AM
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Default Break in oil

I have heard that diesel oil is better to break in ls motors
do I need to add zinc and phosphorus additives
or should I use something else?
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Old Jan 14, 2025 | 01:32 PM
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they are roller lifters, just use whatever oil you plan on running longterm
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Old Jan 14, 2025 | 01:33 PM
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I just used Driven break in oil on my new engine. It's not that expensive, either.
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Old Jan 14, 2025 | 01:52 PM
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Opinions will vary about break-in oil, just as much as camshaft selection. I build a lot of high end stuff, and I use Valvoline VR1 in my builds for break-in. Excellent wear-in protection from the zinc levels at start up. While there technically isn’t a required break-in per say of this platform, there’s still a mating process with ring seal, timing components, push rod cups, rockers, etc.
I prefer a mineral oil over a synthetic at first startup personally and VR1 is a very high quality example that’s affordable.
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Old Jan 14, 2025 | 03:24 PM
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On my complete LS engine builds and run them on the engine dyno. Break it in with VR1. Then after the dyno I drop the oil and add new VR1. Then once in the car I drive it about 500 miles and then drop the oil and add new VR1. Next oil change at 4000 miles?
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Old Jan 14, 2025 | 04:16 PM
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I've used VR1 in the past or Valvoline conventional with Lucas ZDDP additive. On my 99 build I used the good stuff Amsoil SAE30 break in oil.
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Old Jan 16, 2025 | 07:15 AM
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Driven break in oil is what I prefer. Run it for as long as possible, then switch to your normal oil.
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Old Jan 16, 2025 | 08:13 AM
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We used Driven Break in oil for my engine
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Old Jan 16, 2025 | 11:53 AM
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if you feel incline....several companies offer break in oil.....diesel oil does not contain the amount of additives that you mention to be considered beneficial to any break in process ....diesel spec oils should NOT be used in gasoline engines....and ZDDP additives upset the chemistry of the oil you put in the engine .....and NOT in a good way....and should be avoided ....if you do need high zinc oil ( read flat tappet cams ) there are oils for that

not my words.....Lake Speed Jr.....check out his you tube channel for interesting info on oil
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Old Jan 16, 2025 | 02:21 PM
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You’re the first guy to ever say anything about not using diesel oil in a gasoline engine… I’ve been running Rotella T6 regularly in ls1 and various four-cylinder turbo motors with ZERO issues.
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Old Jan 16, 2025 | 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Dan45
You’re the first guy to ever say anything about not using diesel oil in a gasoline engine… I’ve been running Rotella T6 regularly in ls1 and various four-cylinder turbo motors with ZERO issues.
Rotella T is good oil. I run it in all of my engines that have flat tappet cams, and its doing fine.

I've also seen people run 10-40 Rotella in little 4 bangers, lawn mowers, blown big blocks, lots of things.
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Old Jan 16, 2025 | 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Dan45
You’re the first guy to ever say anything about not using diesel oil in a gasoline engine… I’ve been running Rotella T6 regularly in ls1 and various four-cylinder turbo motors with ZERO issues.
Negative sir. Our local oil expert, @Polyalphaolefin has discussed in a few threads why diesel oil…which is engineered for Diesel engines…is not ideal for gasoline engines. He hasn’t been on on a while, but maybe he will happen to log on. He’s an oil engineer and can explain the ins and outs. It always boils down to additive packages.
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Old Jan 17, 2025 | 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Che70velle
Opinions will vary about break-in oil, just as much as camshaft selection. I build a lot of high end stuff, and I use Valvoline VR1 in my builds for break-in. Excellent wear-in protection from the zinc levels at start up. While there technically isn’t a required break-in per say of this platform, there’s still a mating process with ring seal, timing components, push rod cups, rockers, etc.
I prefer a mineral oil over a synthetic at first startup personally and VR1 is a very high quality example that’s affordable.
I totally agree. Some guys even prefer non-detergent oil over regular oil for the first 300-400 miles. Modern machining has probably shortened the break-in time, but theres still a lot of moving parts to shake hands. It may be overkill, but when I disassemble parts on a used engine, I even reinstall the rockers on the valve stem they were originally on, and the pushrod that went with that same rocker. Maybe I'm off my rocker!
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Old Jan 17, 2025 | 07:54 AM
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Good read!

https://ls1tech.com/forums/new-ls1-o...dations-2.html
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Old Jan 17, 2025 | 08:12 AM
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rotella is a great oil...for DIESEL engines....I know that people claim the extra zinc was the reason for using it.....but zinc is not the additive to end all wear ....AND the current formulas of diesel oils uses LESS zinc than in days of old...so its LOSE LOSE
.
one HIGHLY recommended oil for our cars is MOBIL 1 0-40 euro spec.....it does have a teny tiny bit of extra zinc ( as measured in parts per million ) ...but most important....in the 5 gal jugs at wally world .....its the BEST oil you can get for the buck

Last edited by sjsingle1; Jan 17, 2025 at 08:17 PM.
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Old Jan 17, 2025 | 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by 01CamaroSSTx
Thanks for finding and posting this link. Poly does a lot of explaining in that thread and his experience is phenomenal with oils….not just one brand but most all of them. He’s not biased and tells the truth about the uses and breakdowns of oils.
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