Anyone break a spring with .581 lift cam
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 55
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Anyone break a spring with .581 lift cam I have been searching the archives about broken valve spring and LS1 engines. I am under the impression that most valve spring failures are from .590 up. Is this correct? Or, is there anyone out there with .580 lift cam that has broke a spring. Right now I have the MTI Stealth cam with Manley valve spring kit and Ti retainers. Since I have the car apart was wondering if there is a better spring choice now. I have about 6K on the springs. Looked at em closely but see no cracks or anything yet.
I broke a dual valve spring with my little old TR224 cam. I made the stupid mistake of not letting it warm up long enough before driving on a cold morning. It broke at about 1800 RPMs.
Remember that a low lift cam does not imply that it is easy on springs. The ramp rate is probably the number one factor of breaking a spring, whether it be from valve float or just spring fatigue.
Also, as I learned, proper warm up helps tremendously in maintaining the longevity of your springs. I did try to drive on about a 15 degree morning, which many of us do not.
Remember that a low lift cam does not imply that it is easy on springs. The ramp rate is probably the number one factor of breaking a spring, whether it be from valve float or just spring fatigue.
Also, as I learned, proper warm up helps tremendously in maintaining the longevity of your springs. I did try to drive on about a 15 degree morning, which many of us do not.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by chino_man279
I broke a dual valve spring with my little old TR224 cam. I made the stupid mistake of not letting it warm up long enough before driving on a cold morning. It broke at about 1800 RPMs.
Remember that a low lift cam does not imply that it is easy on springs. The ramp rate is probably the number one factor of breaking a spring, whether it be from valve float or just spring fatigue.
Also, as I learned, proper warm up helps tremendously in maintaining the longevity of your springs. I did try to drive on about a 15 degree morning, which many of us do not.
Remember that a low lift cam does not imply that it is easy on springs. The ramp rate is probably the number one factor of breaking a spring, whether it be from valve float or just spring fatigue.
Also, as I learned, proper warm up helps tremendously in maintaining the longevity of your springs. I did try to drive on about a 15 degree morning, which many of us do not.
so you guys are of the general consensus that most any spring will break with an aftermarket/ more aggressive cam, or is there some magic milage number that is coming out of all this. I'll try doing a search for polls on the number of miles before valve spring breaks.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 730
Likes: 66
Broken springs do occur when you don't allow proper warm up. The vast cause of spring failure though is definitely improper application. You must find where your coil bind is at and subtract your lift from your total install height. There should be a safety margin in there from bind. Most people that broke a spring did so because the spring was installed without checking any of the above info and they just put in a spring. REV got slammed for this when a certain tuner was recommending a common dual spring (1116) for use with a monster lift cam that was way too close to coil bind. One thing I can say is that I broke 2 springs (different brand/different occaisions) and both were on start-up with a moderate lift cam. (.570/1.7 rockers)
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 40
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From: Utah
Yeah, I broke my Precision Race dual valve spring due to cold reving (which I should know better)... My car has a moderate lift cam and rebuilt heads... Ideally, one needs to warm the engine up first before hitting WOT and going like a bat out of hell...
I have heard of the stock as well as the Precision Race spring breaking a lot lately and thus I am now going to the Patriot Golds as I have not heard of anyone (as of yet) breaking these...even during extreme racing conditions...but that does not mean it cannot happen either... Just like others have stated here...you can break any spring if not installed properly or if reved up prior to letting the engine warm up... Thank God I had dual springs as the stock single spring would have cost me a new or rebuilt engine long block...
I have heard of the stock as well as the Precision Race spring breaking a lot lately and thus I am now going to the Patriot Golds as I have not heard of anyone (as of yet) breaking these...even during extreme racing conditions...but that does not mean it cannot happen either... Just like others have stated here...you can break any spring if not installed properly or if reved up prior to letting the engine warm up... Thank God I had dual springs as the stock single spring would have cost me a new or rebuilt engine long block...
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Brett Foote Teching In
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
From: Utah
Yeah, I broke my Precision Race dual valve spring due to cold reving (which I should know better)... My car has a moderate lift cam and rebuilt heads... Ideally, one needs to warm the engine up first before hitting WOT and going like a bat out of hell...
I have heard of the stock as well as the Precision Race spring breaking a lot lately and thus I am now going to the Patriot Golds as I have not heard of anyone (as of yet) breaking these...even during extreme racing conditions...but that does not mean it cannot happen either... Just like others have stated here...you can break any spring if not installed properly or if reved up prior to letting the engine warm up... Thank God I had dual springs as the stock single spring would have cost me a new or rebuilt engine long block...
I have heard of the stock as well as the Precision Race spring breaking a lot lately and thus I am now going to the Patriot Golds as I have not heard of anyone (as of yet) breaking these...even during extreme racing conditions...but that does not mean it cannot happen either... Just like others have stated here...you can break any spring if not installed properly or if reved up prior to letting the engine warm up... Thank God I had dual springs as the stock single spring would have cost me a new or rebuilt engine long block...
If anyone has any thoughts, suggestions or technical info...please let me know...as I do not want to have to keep changing these springs and of course I will always let my engine warm up now prior to going to WOT... Lesson learned...
Another spring to consider is the PSI 1511ML spring. Surface treatments for longer life. The PAC 1518 also has surface treatments. There is a lot more to this than just lift and ramp rate. Any loss of valve train control, even once, can damage a valve spring. So start with the seat and over the nose forces you need, measure during installation to get the correct and consistent installed height and look for springs that have good surface treatments to extend life. Installation is a big factor so don't just slap them in. Get the correct tools for installation. And don't use a spring tool that pulls on the coils, you need something like the Crane tool that pushes on the retainer and never touches the spring itself.
TECH Resident
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 907
Likes: 1
From: NJ
I have been searching the archives about broken valve spring and LS1 engines. I am under the impression that most valve spring failures are from .590 up. Is this correct? Or, is there anyone out there with .580 lift cam that has broke a spring. Right now I have the MTI Stealth cam with Manley valve spring kit and Ti retainers. Since I have the car apart was wondering if there is a better spring choice now. I have about 6K on the springs. Looked at em closely but see no cracks or anything yet.
i always warm motor up to 150 oil temps before I nail it. ECS advised me this cam is not radical enough to stress the springs like big sticks do. even if it breaks, thats what the inner spring is for.
I know this is an old thread but is anyone still breaking the comp 918 springs? I just broke one and it was the "new" design. My cam is a 228/330 with a lift of .574 int and ext. The guy I talked to at comp cams was amazed I broke a new one. Springs only have around 2500 miles on them. Always warmed engine before driving. And never raced it, just a daily driver.
Damn do I need to be changing mine soon? I always warm it up good before any beatings it gets but I have about 15k on them now. They are duals, not sure of brand of hand, whatever TSP sells their 5.3 heads with.
All was within specs. Don't know exact numbers, springs were installed by a head shop near my home. My lift was only .574 on a 228/230 cam. Here is a picof the spring off the head.
Last edited by RADO_4U2NV; Jan 18, 2009 at 09:04 AM.
