LS1UltraZ

iTrader: (3)

Ok I am used to noisy valvetrain, I have had heads and cam with full exhaust forever... so trust me its not that Im not used to it. I just did a cam swap for a larger cam and fired it up. Loud clacking from the front, I let it go for 1-2 minutes since it built oil pressure and was idling fine. However the very loud ticking did not go away. I am guessing that I the rocker arms are torqued down way too tight. I read on here somehwhere that no matter how hard u tighten the rocker bolts it will not affect the valvetrain geometry and will not cause any adverse reactions. Should I let the car run longer than 2 minutes? or Should i take the valve covers back off and verify the torque specs on all the bolts. I know they are not too loose, if anything they are way tight. Let me know your thoughts on this

Viper

iTrader: (6)

Did you use a torque wrench on the rockers? I ask because you already feel it's way overtight. Did you measure ptov? I'm asking because it's possible the cam is too big.

All things you know already, just asking the obvious.

Myself I'd take off the valve covers and at least look BEFORE trying to run it longer than 2 minutes.

white2001formula

iTrader: (5)

http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?ar...6ddae7036e5d9e

I always understood it at 22 ft/lb's for rocker arms. When we did mine,( 225/225 .589/.589 112lsa) we rotated the crank/cam untill the pushrod was off of the lobe of the cam. That's when we torqued each rocker arm down. It could be a bad rocker arm also. Have you ever changed the lifters?

LS1UltraZ

iTrader: (3)

Lifters are fine, I understand it is 22lb/ft however I was put in a position today where I didnt have a torque wrench and winged it. I felt comfortable doing this due to the fact that I was told the stock rocker arms will only tighen to a certain point and after that you are only tightening the bolt itself therefor causing no change at all. Maybe this is all wrong though

white2001formula

iTrader: (5)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/243444-how-fix-collapesed-lifters.html

I know that the title of this post is BAD LIFTERS, but there's some pretty good posts explaining why the torque specs are important. I'd look into backing up and torquing them down correctly. I'm not an expert, but you just may not be giving the rocker arms any "Play" by torquing them down as hard as you can. Good luck, on the fix.

Another_User

What are the cam specs?

BadAndy

Important info. If this new cam has a more extreme ramp rate, those valves could be snapping open and shut with a great deal more violence and speed than before. You could have a bent pushrod or maybe just a quirky rocker. It's easy enough to pull the valve covers, check the P-rods and retorque the rockers. Sometimes that fixes things for no apparent reason.

98Blubrd

iTrader: (13)

did you mess with the oil pump at all. I did a cam swap and my car was ticking and clicking like crazy. I thought it was a rocker also but it turned out being the o-ring in the oil pickup tube. if you do a search you will find a very long post about it.

flippincamaro

iTrader: (23)

is it piston to valve contact not sure but that was my problem cause of the timing. mine was a loud clacking noise aswell sounded like a diesel good luck

LS1UltraZ

iTrader: (3)

Update: I let it idle for about 5-10 minutes, sound did not lessen at all and right before i was cutting it off a hear a loud POP from the engine compartment. I promptly turned it off and headed back up here to post. The pop did not travel through the exhaust so im ruling out backfire... it sounded mechanical and it sounded BAD.

Cam: 236/239 .600/.611 111

Currently have 978's installed as springs but was going to switch to PRC duals before ran it hard.

I have notched pistons and I verified with Allan at Futral that P to V clearance would be fine with my heads. Also turned the motor over by hand before reassembly and heard no warning signs.

Oil pump is good to the best of my knowledge, had 60 psi cold and 40 psi warm holding steady. Actually better oil pressure than i had before.

Will pull V covers in the morning and go from there i guess

Another_User

I had a feeling you were going to say over .6xx lift. I'd say that is a piston to valve clearance issue. Have your heads been milled?

Also, are you sure you got the cam timed right? If I am not mistaken, that is critical with a cam like that.

LS1UltraZ

iTrader: (3)

Ever so slightly yes, but not enough to make a difference so says Futral who built the engine. Also, with the notched pistons there is even more clearance.

The timing is right on, dot to dot the whole way. HMMMMMMM

LS1UltraZ

iTrader: (3)

Guys, my buddy is comin over... we are pullin an all nighter tryin to find out what is wrong. Even uncle Jaeger is comin to the party lol. Let me know what else I should check, and ill be posting up with progress. Its 9:30pm, let the fun begin!

glennster

iTrader: (1)

Looks like you did the right thing,tighten things untill they start to get loose again.I'm with you on bad noises,run the motor till it makes a louder noise and it makes it easy to find.

Another_User

Uhhh. By then something already broke.

I disagree with Futral. I am anxious to hear what you find. I heard dot-to-dot isn't always accurate. I put my cam in, and dot-to-dot is really hard to do. You could easily be a tooth off.

flippincamaro

iTrader: (23)

i had ptv hitting and i turned it over by hand and it made no signs of hitting it was not in stock timing. that big of a cam and not in time will definily cause it to hit i only have .591/.569 and mine hit good luck let us know what the problem was

LS1UltraZ

iTrader: (3)

OK guys found the problem. Pulled the valve covers and guess what every single rocker bolt was loose. This is amazing to me since these things were OVER torqued. I guess I have learned today that if overtorqued to the extreme they will be forced to work themselves loose lol. Anyways, torqued them all to 22 lb/ft WITH a nice torque wrench threw it all back together and it purrs like a kitten.... well besides the large loping cam noise

Then i look under the car.. and guess what oil is steadily dripping out of the crank pulley area. Looks as if I didnt get the crank pulley all the way flush and back and oil is coming out. I am trying everything I can to push that pulley all the way back but its not workin. Im going to try and put some large washers on the crank bolt and screw it in since I think the stock bolt is bottoming out and still not pulling the pulley on. Any tricks you guys can share?

Sean

BadAndy

The stock bolt should not bottom out. You may have fucked up the crank seal. Did you use a new seal or reuse the old one?

pimpmaro

Stock pulley or ASP? The ASP shows some machined surface and looks like it should slide on a bit more but it's all the way on as long as the belts line up. I'd check the seal...

LS1UltraZ

iTrader: (3)

ASP underdrive. Replacing crank seal today, will see if that works

Thanks guys