Katech Vs. ARP Rod Bolts?
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Launching!
Joined: Nov 2004
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Katech Vs. ARP Rod Bolts? Ok i spent most of yesterday searching this topic and have a question that is left over.
Katech's Rod Bolt is about the same weight and length as the stockers with good tensile strength. This will do less to throw off the how everything is balanced right? It will also keep from deforming the rod ends if i read everything right.
ARP bolts are heavier and longer helping to unbalance rotating assembly some. So besides price, why do more people go with ARP Rod Bolts over Katechs (besides price)?
Seems if you want to spin the motor to higher rev's you wouldnt want to do something that would throw the balance off, even if it is very little. Just a newb trying to learn, so educate me guys
Katech's Rod Bolt is about the same weight and length as the stockers with good tensile strength. This will do less to throw off the how everything is balanced right? It will also keep from deforming the rod ends if i read everything right.
ARP bolts are heavier and longer helping to unbalance rotating assembly some. So besides price, why do more people go with ARP Rod Bolts over Katechs (besides price)?
Seems if you want to spin the motor to higher rev's you wouldnt want to do something that would throw the balance off, even if it is very little. Just a newb trying to learn, so educate me guys
Originally Posted by Bluehawk27
ummm anybody? 
BTW, I now have about 490crank hp and 470crank torque. I have made several trips to 6800rpm and one to 7200 when I missed a shift and no issues.
Staging Lane
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 81
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From: Highland Park, IL.
I asked about this before. It seems that you may (though most likely will not) have problems going with the ARPs, as they may cause out of round issues. You should not have any issues with the Katech's though. So when I swap out my stockers I will use Katech, cause the way I see it why take chances when you don't have to. I also like to do things only once and get it right the first time. That may not always happen but that is what I try to do. If that involves spending a bit more now, I'll always do it than have to spend more than double when I have to do it again the second time around and then I have to buy better parts which I should have gotten to begin with. This is where thourough research becomes an invaluable tool when choosing parts and set ups. That's just my 2 cents worth though.
This is where thourough research becomes an invaluable tool when choosing parts and set ups. That's just my 2 cents worth though.
TOTALLY AGREED HERE!! My dad is an engineer and im going to be in the same field he is in (I'm at college now) and he has taught me to just wait it out and look at everything even if it sets you back a while it would almost all the time be worth the wait to get everything done right the first time.
TOTALLY AGREED HERE!! My dad is an engineer and im going to be in the same field he is in (I'm at college now) and he has taught me to just wait it out and look at everything even if it sets you back a while it would almost all the time be worth the wait to get everything done right the first time.
Originally Posted by family sedan
My car will be a testiment to the strength of the stock rod bolts with a good tune.
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ARP has the some of the finest heat treating equipment and matallurgical staff in the world. Don't think for a minute that GM can do no wrong.Large corprorations tend to suffer from "Not invented here syndrome" and will pass right over a better design in order to make sure there own companies/subsidaries products are being used.
I would take ARP hands down. Resizing a rod is a neccessary step in thsi process IMO. If you are willing to skip that step you might as well skip the new bolts and pray that the stockers will hold (they won't)
I would take ARP hands down. Resizing a rod is a neccessary step in thsi process IMO. If you are willing to skip that step you might as well skip the new bolts and pray that the stockers will hold (they won't)
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Originally Posted by MSURacing
Well, I hope you aren't planning on revving that thing to high, good luck with that one. I also talked with an Engineer at Katech and he said their Rod Bolts were designed around the ASA engine program, and I am not sure if you realize it or not, there was not a single engine failure until GM decided to rebuild them. So I don't know what you guys would do, but I would put my money on the Katech bolt hands down. They get the advantage of dealing with the GM race programs everyday and I think that says enough right there.
Just a little info on the Katech rod bolts, they aren't made directly by Katech. They are made for Katech by A-1 technology's in California. They are a large fastener company that was hired by GM to make the ASA rod bolts. After GM did all of the testing on them, with the help of Katech, Katech then became the source to purchase these bolts from. A-1 also makes mutiple other fasteners for GM, including the studs that come with the C5R blocks.
Thanks
Hmm interesting points on the Rod deformtion, havent heard anyone mention that before. Also, interesting about A-1 and Katech relationship....reminds of which is really better, Craftsman or Mac (or snap-on, or Husky etc....).
Launching!
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 200
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From: Gainesville, Florida
Why would the bolts need to be resized if their torque value is the same? I can understand how torquing down the bolts more could be a problem, but just because the bolts are stronger doesn't necissarly mean they need more torque.
If I remember Screw to Win correctly, a bolt's strain (stretch) as its tightened is what applies a force holding the head against the rod which holds everything together. Seems like this wouldn't necissarly mean you need more torque with a stronger bolt, maybe just less strain. But I dunno, I'm no ME....
If I remember Screw to Win correctly, a bolt's strain (stretch) as its tightened is what applies a force holding the head against the rod which holds everything together. Seems like this wouldn't necissarly mean you need more torque with a stronger bolt, maybe just less strain. But I dunno, I'm no ME....
Last edited by Grant B; Dec 4, 2004 at 11:16 PM.
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From: Out on the farm in Central IL
I am wondering this same thing myself. ARP has a great reputation but I will spend the extra on the Katech bolts if they are better for this application. I want to get one more year out of the stock short block and see this as cheap insurance.
Interesting , just noticed my rod bolts on my new LPE engine have 'A-1' stamped on them. Since LPE builds motors for ASA ( LPE just signed on for their 5th season ) these must be the Katech bolts.
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Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Working in the shop 24/7
Jager switched to A-1 after the ARP bolts failed during "intallation"!!!!
Never reached stretch dim before they snapped. More than one set up also.
ARP hardware in far from perfect and has it's "issues". They just spend more money in advertising so they are more familiar to the masses.
Ed
Never reached stretch dim before they snapped. More than one set up also.
ARP hardware in far from perfect and has it's "issues". They just spend more money in advertising so they are more familiar to the masses.
Ed
So, is rod resizing necessary with the Katech bolts since they are much closer to stock size/specifications, like its 'necessary' with the ARP bolts? If not, these bolts would make a great insurance policy for a few thousand miles saving up for a new block 
Originally Posted by Grant B
Why would the bolts need to be resized if their torque value is the same? I can understand how torquing down the bolts more could be a problem, but just because the bolts are stronger doesn't necissarly mean they need more torque.
If I remember Screw to Win correctly, a bolt's strain (stretch) as its tightened is what applies a force holding the head against the rod which holds everything together. Seems like this wouldn't necissarly mean you need more torque with a stronger bolt, maybe just less strain. But I dunno, I'm no ME....
If I remember Screw to Win correctly, a bolt's strain (stretch) as its tightened is what applies a force holding the head against the rod which holds everything together. Seems like this wouldn't necissarly mean you need more torque with a stronger bolt, maybe just less strain. But I dunno, I'm no ME....
Clamping abaility is the determining factor. Not the torque value. Besides, you should be setting your rod bolts up with stretch not torque values.
