Michael Ozorowsky

iTrader: (1)

Just what title says. Does alternator stop charging temporarily with car floored? Thanks.

94form2000z

iTrader: (10)

I do not think it does.

P Mack

iTrader: (6)

No, but if you're curious, unhook your battery and make a WOT run

SSPerformance

iTrader: (76)

no......

bigdsz

iTrader: (1)

You have a voltmeter in your instrument cluster,look at it

bigdsz

iTrader: (1)

You have a voltmeter in your instrument cluster,look at it

gaga

no... the alternator is governed by a voltage regulator....

r u thinking about the a/c?? That does shut off at WOT...

Michael Ozorowsky

iTrader: (1)

I THINK my voltage regulator is going. Seems to me that when I floor car, all charging stops. Maybe car is revving up too fast for alternator due to my new ASP underdrive pulley install?? I started having problems with battery keeping charge right after I installed my asp underdrive pullies.

Dragula

iTrader: (5)

You mean your alternator is spinning to slow.

zombiedude

iTrader: (1)

Don't do that. An alt needs 12 volts to work (battery). You unhook it, it might run but the alt is having a stroke. The genators of yester year you could do that with them. Start the car and leave the battery behind. That's where the "take the cable off and see if it's charging" came from. (Showing age) And with todays computer(s) in you car, it might voltage spike the crap outta it. Sounds like you need an over drive alt pulley. An alt should charge 13.5-14.5 volts @ idle and above. The electrical system needs it at all rpms. You have ignition and other things to feed at WOT. A/C comp shuts off @WOT.

DaddySS

Unless you have a belt problem, the ASP provides full charge above 850 rpms. What makes you think all charging stops?

Michael Ozorowsky

iTrader: (1)

Seems like when I floor it and look down at my voltmeter, it is LOW like it was sucking juice from the battery. I'm going to order the overdrive pulley for alternator now. See if that fixes everything *Fingers crossed*

fast98

iTrader: (16)

gm has a calibration for that on the f cars i believe. and not to start a fight but u can run a newer car with no battery. the alt has a b+ post on the back that is connected to the battery, but without the battery there it just sends the power to the car, u only need the battery for starting. the other wire for the field comes from the computer, some but not all have third and fourth wires these usually have to do with a guage depending how its wired. and i will look tommorow or maybe tonight for that bulletin for your car.

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

that should do it, too much load and not enough charge. how is it idling?

98_1LE

iTrader: (17)

No, but your ac kicks off at WOT.

Ryan K

iTrader: (11)

My bet is on belt slip. I have seen it too, its the belt/tensioner.

fast98

iTrader: (16)

do u have the right belt on there, it could be just long enough that the tensioner can't put enough force on it and it would slip, i checked gm's site and i was wrong there isn't a calibration for your problem. your alt has to be charging otherwise your battery light would come on or check gauges.

alphy280z

im new here but i can help ya out .when u put the under drive pullys on all your doing is increasing the rpms of the motor or the motr spikes quiker to the rev limiter .but in putting the undr drive pully on your changing the rpm range of all the acc. that the crank pully drives.coputer cars are designed to run at ceartin speeds and read back to the ecu and when u change that it changes every thing.the only way to fix this is to call the dist. of yhe pully system u bought and see if they or any other dist. offer a counter measure pully to get the alt. to work properly.untill then it wont work right

Michael Ozorowsky

iTrader: (1)

car idles fine, but sometimes I notice battery getting drained.

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

do u have the stock or underdrive alt pulley right now?