Those installing double roller timing chains with the ASP pulley:
Wade at ARE says that it is rare, but does happen. I had my local machine shop take off the amount that Wade reccomended. I'm going over tomorrow to put the pulley on, and I'll let you guys know how it turns out.
I would hate to think of what could have happened had I not notice this, and attempted to fire the new motor up. <img border="0" alt="[cry]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cry.gif" /> So check it close if you are doing this mod. Or send the pulley along to your builder so they can check it out when assembling the motor.
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Guess I'll find out (i'm using a rollermaster double chain)
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I would suggest that ANYBODY who has a double roller timing set AND a ASP pulley to check for metal shavings and ya might wanna pull the pulley off to check.
Hopefully ASP is aware of this and will start to mill these back just a lil more.
http://www.mustangmods.net/data/440/MVC-035S.JPG
I'll post a pic in a lil bit pointing to the spot but look at a pully. The shaft that goes into the front cover and butts up to the pump is the area. Looking from the side you will see this:
-----------------------|<_dammage area
--------------------------
--------------------------
--------------------------
--------------------------
--------------------------
-----------------------|<Dammage occures at this collar) and needs to be machined back in appx .140" id you have ran the pully you will see the marks from the front seal DO NOT MACHINE past or into those marks.
Hopefully this will help
<small>[ April 17, 2003, 08:56 PM: Message edited by: Renegade ]</small>
I put some picks in my webshots in the sig. Should be there in the next 30 min.
I believe it was .030 off the OD in the rear, and then .150 back off the lip from there. I didn't think to take any pics before I took it there, sorry.
I'm not sure what brand of double roller that ARE uses. Wade did say that most of the pulleys fit, with no problem, but there are a few strays that dont quite fit. It was no big deal to have it milled off. Hope the pics clear it up. The painted intake is Barry's work. Good job on that Barry <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />
<strong> Like I said I installed mine and was turning the motor over to pump up the pressure ( had fuses pulled so it wouldn't start). I realized I'd done a dumba$$ stunt with my shims - anyways i had to tear it all back apart. This is when I found the dammage. If I had started and ran it who knows what might have happened. A new bolt is like 3.50 from the dealer and take a couple of hours to pull the pully and check it is all i'm saying. 3.50 + appx 1-2 hours for peace of mind is a small price to pay.
I'll post a pic in a lil bit pointing to the spot but look at a pully. The shaft that goes into the front cover and butts up to the pump is the area. Looking from the side you will see this: </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">so we need to mill back the damage area? and can i just take it to a mchine shop to do this?
....I have a SLP oil pump. Does it need to be shimmed with the SDPC doubel roller?
<strong> do you have to mill the pulley with a SDPC double roller or just the SLP unit?
....I have a SLP oil pump. Does it need to be shimmed with the SDPC doubel roller? </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">The SDPC Rollmaster setup also has to be shimmed but I am thinking maybe the shims are thinner?
BTW my front seal was trashed too 16.50 for a new one from the dealer. Figure I got off cheap considering the possibilities.


