IS a cam for me? What cam?
IS a cam for me? What cam? Hello. check out my mods i nmy sig. I am basically stock. I want to do a nice mod to try and get close to 11's with + a few more bolt ons. I am jsut curious about a cam. I have no knowledge on them. Are they an easy install or very hard? Also which cam would you suggest for me? This car is everyday daily driven. Thank you.
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11's are obtainable with bolt ons.... see how fast that is then come back...
LS6 or (Fast intake for cam)
pulley
lid or FIPK
ported TB or the (90mm TB for cam)
gears A4=atleast 3.73, M6=atleast 4.10 or 12 or 9 rear (preferably)*
headers
ory
cat back
Sub frame connectors
Lower control arms
rear sway bar
Torque arm
drag radials
HPtuners
LS6 or (Fast intake for cam)
pulley
lid or FIPK
ported TB or the (90mm TB for cam)
gears A4=atleast 3.73, M6=atleast 4.10 or 12 or 9 rear (preferably)*
headers
ory
cat back
Sub frame connectors
Lower control arms
rear sway bar
Torque arm
drag radials
HPtuners
TECH Resident
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From: The other, other, other A-Town, NM
You also have the option of going with some spray. There are some board members in the 10s running nitrous on the stock cam. A cam would be my pick though. Jerami's cam guide that he linked up has some VERY valuable info.
On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 176
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From: Bethel, CT
I recommend in this order:
1. Converter-3500 minimum stall. $750-1300 with install.
2. LT headers/y-pipe/cats. 2 grand with install and tune.
3.Cam or cam/heads package. 2 grand for cam package, install and tune.
Prices are approximate. LSI-Edit runs $550 but once you got it, you just need to pay for dyno time.
You will need tuning after headers and cam. Won't hurt after converter either should you have torque management issues.
1. Converter-3500 minimum stall. $750-1300 with install.
2. LT headers/y-pipe/cats. 2 grand with install and tune.
3.Cam or cam/heads package. 2 grand for cam package, install and tune.
Prices are approximate. LSI-Edit runs $550 but once you got it, you just need to pay for dyno time.
You will need tuning after headers and cam. Won't hurt after converter either should you have torque management issues.
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11 Second Club
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 5,524
Likes: 1
From: The South
I managed cold air induction, lid, ported throttle body, longtube headers, true duals, 3500 stall converter, shift kit, tranny cooler, trans pan, tranny temp gauge, install on all tranny parts, nitto drag radials for the street, M/T ET streets for the track, and BMR subframe connectors plus labor to weld them in for less than $4,000. Untuned, ran 12.62. I then added a cam and dyno tune to run 12.21 on a tranny that was going bad. I will pick car up this weekend with a restall of the converter to match my cam, SLP underdrive pulley, LS6 intake, built 4l60E ($$$) and retune.
After all of that I WILL be getting my 11 second timeslips as soon as the weather is good enough to go to the track.
After all of that I WILL be getting my 11 second timeslips as soon as the weather is good enough to go to the track.
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Originally Posted by PonchoFan - added comments in bold
I recommend in this order:
1. Converter-3500 minimum stall. $750-1300 with install.
2. LT headers/y-pipe/cats. 2 grand with install and tune. - install them yourself, tune when you get a cam. - 1000
3.Cam or cam/heads package. 2 grand for cam package, install and tune. - install it yourself - 1000
Prices are approximate. LSI-Edit runs $550 but once you got it, you just need to pay for dyno time. - If you mean getting a full lifetime tune somewhere....then prices vary. If you are talking about getting a tuning suite, forget LS1Edit. Go for HPTuners or Flashscan.
You will need tuning after headers and cam. Won't hurt after converter either should you have torque management issues.
1. Converter-3500 minimum stall. $750-1300 with install.
2. LT headers/y-pipe/cats. 2 grand with install and tune. - install them yourself, tune when you get a cam. - 1000
3.Cam or cam/heads package. 2 grand for cam package, install and tune. - install it yourself - 1000
Prices are approximate. LSI-Edit runs $550 but once you got it, you just need to pay for dyno time. - If you mean getting a full lifetime tune somewhere....then prices vary. If you are talking about getting a tuning suite, forget LS1Edit. Go for HPTuners or Flashscan.
You will need tuning after headers and cam. Won't hurt after converter either should you have torque management issues.
Hello, ok so ive heard mainly to comlete my bolt ons first. I already have a catback (borla) and underdrive pullys, and sub frame connectors and strut tower brace. Also have a MAF that prolly does nothing and suncoast Ram Air. Now since i have the ram air, i dont need a lid correct? I was thinking for my next mod.... LS6 intake (Can i install myself in an hour or so or is it a big deal?) And than some long tubes and a Y pipe. Ported TB seems like a lot of moeny for something that doesnt do much? Or does it? Where should i head? I have about $1grand chillen right now. Thanks
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Originally Posted by Superman09
Hello, ok so ive heard mainly to comlete my bolt ons first. I already have a catback (borla) and underdrive pullys, and sub frame connectors and strut tower brace. Also have a MAF that prolly does nothing and suncoast Ram Air. Now since i have the ram air, i dont need a lid correct? I was thinking for my next mod.... LS6 intake (Can i install myself in an hour or so or is it a big deal?) And than some long tubes and a Y pipe. Ported TB seems like a lot of moeny for something that doesnt do much? Or does it? Where should i head? I have about $1grand chillen right now. Thanks
a good set of long tubes and that'll cost about 1100... ory about 300... I'd save for the 90tb and 90 intake.. and grab a 12 bolt.. and stall it...
that will suprise you
Honestly, if you searched you'd be buried with YEARS of data... tons of reading.
If I were you: The tb is good for 7hp on a stock car. You should get the torque converter and trani cooler second. Worth every penny. Then do the cam yourself and save money. I did mine in one weekend taking my time using www.ls1howto.com and about $30 worth of tools I had to buy. (Pulley puller and 24 mm socket) Spent $60 on gaskets and stuff and bought the cam used on the for sale section $350 with valvesprings included. I wish you lived around Atlanta 'cause I'd swap your cam for $150.
The headers will run between $399 Pacesetters or $799-$1300 for premium ones.If you don't plan to keep the car forever, Pacesetters will do just fine. I'd do the cam and tb for sure!!! Worth it!
If I were you: The tb is good for 7hp on a stock car. You should get the torque converter and trani cooler second. Worth every penny. Then do the cam yourself and save money. I did mine in one weekend taking my time using www.ls1howto.com and about $30 worth of tools I had to buy. (Pulley puller and 24 mm socket) Spent $60 on gaskets and stuff and bought the cam used on the for sale section $350 with valvesprings included. I wish you lived around Atlanta 'cause I'd swap your cam for $150.
The headers will run between $399 Pacesetters or $799-$1300 for premium ones.If you don't plan to keep the car forever, Pacesetters will do just fine. I'd do the cam and tb for sure!!! Worth it!
Ok well i will probably finish the bolt ons. So i still DO need a lid? Maybe you can tell by the pic in my sig. I would jsut get pacesetters but dont want to run into problems down the road so i will more than likely save up for QTPs or Kooks or i could jsut be a cheapass and buy the pacesetters and worry about problems later down the road with rust. So a Ported TB is also a good mod? Should i get the 90mm or what? How is install for that? I would mroe than likely get the headers down by a local friend mechanic and have him put a cut out and y pipe in also. I will do a stall later but im not sure if iwant to get that deep into the tranny yet. I think headers and the LS6 intake will be next? Is the LS6 intake a 90 mm or what do i get for intake? Thanks
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11 Second Club
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 5,524
Likes: 1
From: The South
LS6 intake is stock size which is not 90mm. All you really need is a ported stock throttle body and LS6 intake for a cam only car. If you go big cam/ported heads than a FAST 90/90 setup isn't a bad idea.
Header install isn't very hard, and swapping throttle bodies is cake.
Coated pacesetters shouldn't let you down, but QTP/Kooks are very good headers.
Header install isn't very hard, and swapping throttle bodies is cake.
Coated pacesetters shouldn't let you down, but QTP/Kooks are very good headers.
Forget the 90mm on your stock motor! Get an LS6 if you need it. Also, forget the lid, the hood you have uses an airbox similar to the LT1 powered Firehawks.... just how would a regular lid work with that airbox 
...forget about it. Puttin atconverter isn't "going deep" into the tranni. The shop will put your car on a lift, sep the engine from trani, replace your stock tc (which is right in the open when the eng is seperated) and bolt it back together. 5 hours tops. The throttle body is GREAT even on stock cars. Your headers could be covered in rust and still work for years.Pick TWO: cheap,fast,reliable.
...forget about it. Puttin atconverter isn't "going deep" into the tranni. The shop will put your car on a lift, sep the engine from trani, replace your stock tc (which is right in the open when the eng is seperated) and bolt it back together. 5 hours tops. The throttle body is GREAT even on stock cars. Your headers could be covered in rust and still work for years.Pick TWO: cheap,fast,reliable. Last edited by FIREHAWK#608; Jun 3, 2005 at 05:22 PM.
Ill pick cheap and reliable. So you think my best bet would be to get a ported TB (install myself) and an LS6 intake (How is that to install) And LTs (pacesetters prolly, ill still prolly get them done by a mechanic so i dont eff anyhting up, he wont charge me an arm and a leg either) and than a stall and egt it intalled by a shop also? Thanks. Sounds like a good road to head down. Im thinking about ording the throttle body and ls6 intake at the same time, than the headers and y pipe and cut out, than the stall last. Thanks
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if you are staying SI for awhile, then I wouldnt get the intake.. i went 11.9's with the stock TB, intake and etc on my 98. I didnt wanna spend all the cash for a few ponies. If you dont have a lid yet(???) then definitly get one of those please.
but lid, stall, headers would be the order I do them... a nice 3200-4000 stall would be the best bang for the buck and make you grin everytime you leave a stoplight
lid is a easy 1-2tenths off your ET and should be about anyone's first mod.
the intake and TB I wouldnt mess with untill you decide on a cam and heads, or when you have done all the other bolt ons. Just my 2 cents anyway
but lid, stall, headers would be the order I do them... a nice 3200-4000 stall would be the best bang for the buck and make you grin everytime you leave a stoplight
lid is a easy 1-2tenths off your ET and should be about anyone's first mod.
the intake and TB I wouldnt mess with untill you decide on a cam and heads, or when you have done all the other bolt ons. Just my 2 cents anyway
He doesnt need a LID.. The hood seal/shuts down on the filter.
Get a Torque Converter/cooler (Fuddle's is like 410 to your door step)... Whats left get a set of Pacesetter headers/ORY (under 500 I believe). Just those 2 will net you around .6 + of you E.T pretty easily... Just my $.02
Get a Torque Converter/cooler (Fuddle's is like 410 to your door step)... Whats left get a set of Pacesetter headers/ORY (under 500 I believe). Just those 2 will net you around .6 + of you E.T pretty easily... Just my $.02
Ok thanks. So maybe hold off on intake/TB for a while? Well ill continue saving before i decide. Thanks for all your help.
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