While putting my heads back on....I slipped and broke a head bolt right off in the block. Its the middle head bolt on the drivers side. The bolt is recessed in there about 2.5 - 3 inches. I called a few shops, they either said that I am fucked and I need a new block, or I would have to pull the motor to bring it down to them....I had a shop that would do it for me...however, after putting my car on the tow dolly.....it fell off, lucky for me, it was only at the end of my road....and I caught it in time......

Does anyone have any sugjestions as to what I should do??? I just went and got reverse drill bits....I think that its too far in there for an easy out.....PLEASE HELP!!!!! Thanks

Rob

 

Did you pull the head back off to get better access?

 

yeah, the heads are off....

 

Well I am headed down to a freinds house to pick up a set of head studs....lets hope these work, keeping my fingers crossed....

 

studs would've been cheaper the first time around hope you get it take care of Rob. btw, whats up with the cam??

 

there wont be much holding the bolt in there because there shouldnt be any tension on the bolt...you may be able to spin it out pretty easy if the threads arent messed up.

If it was me, I'd get a screwdriver and a drill bit thats a little smaller than the tip of the screwdriver. I'd try drilling the bolt very carefully, then putting the screwdriver in the end and seeing if it can be pressed in enough to back the bolt out. Know what i mean?

I feel for ya since I know how stressful broken bolts and messed up threads can be.

 

Use a X or Y type drill bit. Use size #40 bit = .098 or something close. Drill approx. 1/8 in. in broke stud. Use an easy-out bit to extract broke bolt.
Use a variable speed drill. Go slow and take your time. It will work.

 

Just mig a T-handle on the end of the bolt and pull her out...............maybe that sounded better in my head than when I spit it out.

Brandon

 

Well the bolt is recessed in there about 2.5 - 3 inches...I am going to try and put the broken bolt back in there with some JB weld or something and try to back it out....and for the cam....well sorry to say that its F'd too

 

Get someone with a portable welder, or get the car to a welding shop. The bolt can be "built" back out, and the heat of the weld will loosen the bolt up if there is any trash in there. Done it many times, although never on an aluminum block. I always liked to use a 7018 rod when I did this.
I wouldn't put any JB weld on it except if that's the only option you feel you have.
Luck,
GJ

 

If none of those suggestions work you may try and insert a sleeve into the bolt hole to use as a guide for your drill bit. You will have to use the creativity that was lacking during the install process during this extraction. Find a sleeve that has the O.D. of the bolt hole and cut it flush to the deck. Get a drill bit that is the same diameter as the I.D. of your sleeve. The sleeve will act as a drill bit guide and will also prevent you from gaulling your threads. I would drill no more than 1/4" into the broken bolt. Chances are your not going to find an easy-out long enough to reach or an extension that will fit into the hole so I would try a "T" handle torx wrench as an extraction tool. We have removed the sleeve at this point since we are done drilling, right? If the torx wrench doesn't work you'll have to get creative once again and come up with a tool that will fit into the hole you drilled and will bite into the meat of the screw with sufficient purchase to get it out. We didn't use locktite on the threads did we? I hope not for your sake and we will use a NEW set of bolts after we get this one out or switch to ARP studs or bolts, right? You also want to make sure you get all the metal filings out of the hole before you try to extract the broken bolt. Use a magnet or compressed air. If you use air be sure the motor is covered with rags so metal fragments don't find their way into places they don't belong.

 

Thanks eallanboggs I am going to try a few things this morning. And no, I didnt use lock tight on the bolts......If I cant get it out...and the studs dont work, I will tow it down to JBA and have them get it out for me

 

did you twist it off from torque, or did you slip up and break it sideways? i'm guessing torque...you'll have to get something with at least as much force as it took you to break it to back it out..i wish you luck.

 

bolts work by tension. if they break there is no tension and youll be able to unsrew it by hand...unless the threads are messed up.

 

Well if he broke it cause of torque then all that pressure would be gone as soon as the head of the bolt is gone. I just changed my heads this week and it is the first time i saw jsut how far the ****** head bolts go into the block. What is the use of that? They dont even start to thread till 2 inches, or so, in. I have a DSM also and the head bolts threat in at teh very top of the block. GL gettin that out man.


John

 

it's all about bolt stretch.

 

Well I just got back from Home Depot from getting a piece of pipe that I can uses as a guide/sleeve. I am going to try the reverse drill bit, see if that works....will let you know

Rob

 

Keep us informed, I'm doing a head swap this weekend, I hope I don't have to take your path. But if I do, I'll need to know how to fix it too.
Were you using a new set of GM bolts? How tight did you torque them?
Do you know how/why it broke? Those bolts look pretty strong, I'd think they could handle well more than the recommended torque.

 

I know exactly how it broke....I was a dumbass and wasnt paying attention, and instead of backing the bolts out, I was tightening them. We already had the car running, but due to the back lifter tray coming loose, and my lifter bouncing all over my cam (and Fing it up) I had to pull the heads again. The head and cam swap is really not that bad.....

 

go down to your tool shop and buy an easy-out