LS1_PNYTAMR

iTrader: (1)

perhaps im already used to it.. but with a lid cutout and weight reduction i was running 1.90 60fts and running 8.1's in the 1/8th or about 12.70-80 in the 1/4 on some nittos.. and 11.60s on nitrous
fastforward 1.5 years to last nite.

added fms f14 cam, mac mids, mail order tune, 4.10's, 3000 tci stall in no particular order...

for some reason, everythings installed right, its running 8.1's at about 1-2mph higher is all..

its about 40 degrees warmer out but still this is not what i invested for it to do.. perhaps the dyno tune will really wake it up.. i know he set it up conservative..

but the timeslips were as follows

2.21 8.4x
2.06 8.06 @87.xx mph
and the only one under 2.00 all nite was a 1.86 8.05 @ 81 mph.. i had a windhshield wiper fly off around 70mph and i let out in fear!!!
so we gotta kinda throw that run out, tho i think based on the runs above it was a 7 second 1/8th..

but 2.06 60t with a 8.06.. granted i was on nittos.. but it spun solidly thru first and then ofcourse was way low in the rpm's in second cuase it kinda short shifted...

will 28x11.5 et streets and a fuddle 4000/2.4 fix my problem???

i figure with a 1.66 60ft being 4 tenths lower, i would run a 5 tenths quicker 1/8th of 7.56.... which would be respectable..


however my friends are all telling me my rings are shot!

i dont think there really friends that like me or my car, but they all tell me i sprayed the car to much blah blah blah and that my problem is more then just the 60ft.. yes it does feel a lil sluggish, but its also not really tuned yet, and it doesn't burn any oil, have any blow by, ect...

it does however throw a cat code for a f'd up 02 simm..a nd a radom missfire code.. i changed plugs and wires and got nothing.....

conan

iTrader: (5)

I would try a compression test just to be sure and then a dyno tune. The mail order tunes aren't perfect for every car. They can also tune out your rear 02's. Also the +40* didnt help you either.

TAQuickness

iTrader: (28)

random misfire is common after a cam swap. sound like your car is reverting to the OL table and costing you some performance. Take it to the tuner, have them do a CASE relearn and then do the dyno tune. You should see a noticable improvement.

If you want to get real fance, get your own tuning software, instead of paying for a dyno tune, and tune it your self.

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

Whats the reasoning for the CASE relearn?

LS1_PNYTAMR

iTrader: (1)

yea what exactly is all that.. im a complete newb when it comes to the computer... i want to learn, but dont know where to start

compression test- the car had one before the cam swap, and i pulled off the heads to look at the tops as well.. my dad did the compression test i was actually at work, i dont remember the numbers, but it was all right on and even all the way around

i think a few of these guys on the local board are just trying to give me some bad advice

LS1_PNYTAMR

iTrader: (1)

i figured random missfire was common after cam swap... but i want to say its more frequent now... ever since the colder plugs i would occassionally get this! after the stall converter and headers with stock tune it became slightly more frequent, now after the cam, its constant basically..

occasionally she will stumble coming to a stoplight and cutoff or try too.. not as much as before the mail order tune tho.. but it then usually flashes the ses light on and off in my face for about 10 seconds adn then goes solidly lit again i heard this meant open loop..

im in the process of swapping a stock heat range plug back in.. for one things its running a tad rich still, and that is not helping the colder plugs case at all.. and since im not spraying for a while i figured this was best

Crazy Man

iTrader: (6)

I would go with a little more stall 3500+.... 26.5 11.50 et streets.... A cutout.... And get ladyredhawk up here in Hendersonville NC to tune your car..

LS1_PNYTAMR

iTrader: (1)

thats aight.. ill stick with milkman for 150$ more i get a dyno tune at this point so its a matter of money and hes the best around..

secondly, my ses light iddn't flash at me like normal i just took it out with the hotter plugs.. it didn't go away, but its not flashing from time to time when i come to a stop... which is nice..

it is running rich for sure still.. i can smelleth the gas on my clothing lol..

milkman or jeffcreech at c.a.m motorsports set it up to be very conservative, safe, and to get me around until i can make it up there too see him.. full time engineering student/full time employment makes this a hassle to get done.. nevertheless its quite possible i will pick up 25rwhp or more when i go dyno tune with him

oh yea im doing 28x11.5's cuase i spray and it wont otherwise clear the 1/4 mile...

adn a fuddle 3800-4000 with a 2.3-2.4 str should be a nice upgrade over my tci 3000 with i think a 2.0 str?

Full-Force

iTrader: (11)

Man dont do ANYTHING yet. I would not change a thing until the car hooks up. You car was spinning the tires so bad that you can throw those slips away because it tells you nothing.

Take it to Greer on a Saturday. It will hook then. If my M6 car that was stock except exhaust work could cut a 1.84 then I know you could get low 1.7 or high 1.6. That right there would put you in the mid 7's.

Full-Force

iTrader: (11)

By the way, LadyRedHawk will give you a dyno tune also. She doesnt have a dyno but I believe she rents a dyno to tune your car on.

Becky, you may want to chime in if thats not correct.

Not to mention, you will probably run into Becky at the track if you need anything changed and so forth. Beats mailing your tune back and forth or driving all the way to Creech.

SmaknaSS

iTrader: (1)

Definaty get a dyno tune.

LS1_PNYTAMR

iTrader: (1)

dude i will be out there this thursday, i work about 10 hrs on saturday... after the first couple of passes the track goes to ****.. so imma get out there early and only run 1-2 times and start out with the airpressure a lil lower..

the only decent 60ft i got was 1.86 still spinning tho... but i had to let out that pass and still had about 16-17lbs of air in the tires and it was also my shortest burnout.. but the track was fresh

later on in the nite just to get below 2.10 again i was at 9-10lbs of air and smoking thm up big time.. so ill prolly start at 12-13 lbs that first pass with a nice sticky burnout

i just want that 7 second pass first off.. i dont care how i get it, its bullshit that i dont have it as light as this car is ect it shoudl have done it with ease before with the 3.23's stock cam and manifolds... just with the stall i was lookin for 7.80-7.90 cuase i was running 8.1's before that lol

1QuickT-A

iTrader: (12)

I personally think that the 4.10 gears and the 3000 stall is a big problem. First off, the 3000 stall is too small for the F14. 2nd, the 4.10 gears make the 3000 stall even smaller. I say change the converter to a 3500-3800 & go with 3.73's.. Or you can leave the 3000 in it and go back to 3.42's.

Get it tuned on the dyno, put some decent tires on it, and put some different gears in it..

LS1_PNYTAMR

iTrader: (1)

im going to be getting some et streets and a 4000 stall to compliment the cam and 4.10s very soon... think that will help or no?

ive known the 3000 was to small to begin with its been a plan to upgrade.. i just keep putting it off and its a good thing i have or id have wound up with a tci 3500 or something not much better really

also im going to run a 28x11.5 et street which will put my gearing at about 3.8x i belive with the 4000

TAQuickness

iTrader: (28)

Lots of info on this in the tuning sections (search works there too )

For what ever reason, cam swaps tend to alter the releationship the crank sensor has with the crank. CASE relearn lets the PCM remap your crank and eliminates alot of p0300's. If you cam is really lumpy, like mine, it won't completely eliminate the p0300, but will help reduce the misfire codes.

if you want to learn, now is a good time. take a look at the stickies in the tuning section. for a few bucks more than a dyno tune, you can get your own tuning software. When you are ready for the dyno tune, you can rent a dyno for ~$75/hr , give or take a few bucks.

there is a lot more to tuning than WOT dyno pulls.

LS1_PNYTAMR

iTrader: (1)

some great advice.. yea ive read those stickies..

what ill prolly do.... is take it to cam for the dyno tune ... which is only 150$ more.. i piad 250$ for the mail order tune and he subtracts that from the 400$ he normally charges see?

so thats a helluva deal there.. and then if i have my own tuning software i have a good starting point to fine adjust it to my liking as well as for future mods.. also i plan on watchin him very closely and asking lots of questions..

Lady Redhawk

iTrader: (6)

Yes, I do dyno tunes it is included with a full tune. I also have LS1Edit, HPTuners and EFILive Flash/Scan.

UltraZLS1

iTrader: (13)

I would get my car scanned at autozone real quick again or something.
When I changed my headers, I had the ses light blink. It ended up being a cylinder misfire.....not the random misfire code you are thinking about.
If you have a cylinder misfire, your spark plug wire could be improperly installed on that cylinder or maybe the plug could be fouled out from the new cam running rich, possibly a bad coil, maybe an injector unplugged (this can also cause blinking)
I have had the random misfire code in my car from time to time....it has never caused the ses light to blink.

Just some ideas.