2000ws6transam

iTrader: (5)

i was removeing my ls6 heads and one of my ARP "long" bolts broke off at the top thread. I tried to drill it and easy out, but the bolt is really hard and when i try to drill it, the drill wanders into the aluminum (not good). any ideas on how to do this? I was thinking super glue or JB weld the top half of the bolt to the bottom, or maybe try to tack weld a stick to it....

2000ws6transam

iTrader: (5)

anyone?

napoleon

iTrader: (3)

welding a tough tool to it would work best. Its also relatively easy...also, you could get a hammer and a hole punch or auger and place the hole punch in the center of the studd. you might need a second hand. Hit it and create a dimple in the studd, then drill it and use the east out.

RPO_Z06

iTrader: (11)

If it broke off even with the block deck I would suggest welding a nut to the end of it, situate the nut at the top center of the bolt stud and fill the center of the nut with weld making sure to get it good and hot for weld penitration.

Dixit

iTrader: (1)

But gotta be careful on welding and getting it really hot when you fill the nut, dont want to start getting to the melting point of aluminum, remember its alot less than iron/steel.

Im just curious to understand how that ARP broke, Ive pulled mine a few times with no problems as many many others have.

The more I hear these stories I keep wanting to just put studs in next time I pull the head. That eliminates this issue and also 2hrs of cleaning the bolt holes.

Dixit

2000ws6transam

iTrader: (5)

the bolt broke off at the top thread, which is about 4 inches in the block. Its so deep my easy out cant reach it unless i weld something on to it

DrkPhx

iTrader: (15)

I could see this happening if one didn't use the ARP moly lube. Also, draining the coolant from the block via the big plug on the side is the best way. That will eliminate the coolant spilling on to the heads when they are removed.

2000WS6transam - Is the head removed from the block? Try lining up the broken half of the bolt to part stuck in the block and turning it. There should be no tension on that part.

gwj

OK, just throwing out ideas here.
1) Have a machine shop take a piece of cold roll steel (round), the same diameter as the unthreaded portion of the bolt (essentially a sleeve).Have them set it up on a lathe and bore a straight hole all the way through for the size drill you want to use. Get a jobbers drill, if needed, (extra long bit). Measure the depth of another bolt hole identical to the one w/the broken bolt and make a note of the depth and make sure you don't drill any deeper. Put the sleeve in the hole, this will give you a guide for the bit. With luck, this will give either a long EZ out or tap the ability to loosen all the crud and flush/vacuum it all out.
2) Have sleeve made and use a 3/32 welding rod and slowly build out the bolt. If you have to stop for fear of overheating the Aluminum, take a long punch and tap off the slag/flux off the top of the bolt so as to get a good start when you resume.

If it was me, I would try either.
Last choice, of course, is to take the block to a machine shop.
I've removed many bolts, never in an aluminum block, however, the methods seem sound.
What do y'all think?
Just trying to help.

HASTINGSRJ

iTrader: (18)

Welcome to my nightmare brother.....I had a stud break in my block....tried having it drilled, didnt work...finally scrapped the block.....broke another head bolt in the block (dont ask) put a heli coil in it....that finally did it....

bulletLS1

also I might add, do a search if you can find a long enough COBALT drill bit, like the katsup bag folk tale, the bolts are never strong enough... until you beak one....
sorry to hear