At what RPM do you need dry sump?
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At what RPM do you need dry sump?
As it states. At what PRM do you need to go to a dry sump and is it because of HP oil lack of proper lubrication? Thanks!
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I'd venture a guess and say when the rotating assembly has a parasitic drag from oil that you feel is too great, and going to a dry-sump system is worth it to regain that horsepower loss. Are you limited by class restraints? It could easily be worth going to a dry sump to gain a few extra ponies from a constrained engine. The LS7 uses dry sump, and has a 6500rpm+, and NASCAR has over 8000RPM and are dry sump. Then again... honda's have high rpm 8K+, but not dry sump. It's not so much RPM, but the parasitic loss from maintaining a wet-sump system.
edit: For large displacement engines spinning high(more rotatin' assembly and oil), I'd say 7K+, could probably pick up a decent amount by doing dry-sump, but I don't have an engine I could compare.
edit: For large displacement engines spinning high(more rotatin' assembly and oil), I'd say 7K+, could probably pick up a decent amount by doing dry-sump, but I don't have an engine I could compare.
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there are a lot of benefits to running a dry sump setup:here are some andy
allows use of looser rings,more complete seal on the cylinder walls, allows the motor to rev faster throught the rpms, removes the chance that you might starve the motor for oil on a wheelie, or starve the motor/rods for oil when pulling a lot of vaccum out of the motor vie a vaccum pump....
allows use of looser rings,more complete seal on the cylinder walls, allows the motor to rev faster throught the rpms, removes the chance that you might starve the motor for oil on a wheelie, or starve the motor/rods for oil when pulling a lot of vaccum out of the motor vie a vaccum pump....
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Originally Posted by CAMN HAWK
there are a lot of benefits to running a dry sump setup:here are some andy
allows use of looser rings,more complete seal on the cylinder walls, allows the motor to rev faster throught the rpms, removes the chance that you might starve the motor for oil on a wheelie, or starve the motor/rods for oil when pulling a lot of vaccum out of the motor vie a vaccum pump....
allows use of looser rings,more complete seal on the cylinder walls, allows the motor to rev faster throught the rpms, removes the chance that you might starve the motor for oil on a wheelie, or starve the motor/rods for oil when pulling a lot of vaccum out of the motor vie a vaccum pump....
#7
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the only "need" for a drysump system would be if the internal pump design could not supply enough oil. and in that case you could use an external oil pump. we back to back changed from an external pump to a dry sump on an 8.0 car and saw no significant gains. i realize that at 8.0 it takes a lot of power to notice a difference...so im sure it was worth some...but it didnt show any like we hoped. i like the dry sump idea...i just dont like all the extra stuff that goes along with it. bye
Last edited by slow3hoe2; 12-01-2005 at 11:47 PM.
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not sure if you "need" it...but it certainly has its advantages.....and a properly setup dry sump system should be worth about 20 or so hp.....that i have seen on an ls1.
no need to try to pull 16-20" of vaccum with a regular oil setup and risk running the rod bearing dry.....then its time to rebuild your short.
** I have a complete ls1 bolton dry sump system for sale...if anyone is interested ****its listed in the For Sale section
no need to try to pull 16-20" of vaccum with a regular oil setup and risk running the rod bearing dry.....then its time to rebuild your short.
** I have a complete ls1 bolton dry sump system for sale...if anyone is interested ****its listed in the For Sale section
Last edited by CAMN HAWK; 12-02-2005 at 03:20 PM.
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the only one i see is.....on my setup the pump itself is ran off a cog belt....if the belt break..you loose oil pressure....
i put right around 1.5k miles a year on my car usually
i put right around 1.5k miles a year on my car usually