98-99 oil starvation problems
the issue with the early ls1 oil pumps is the releif valve/valve spring.
the deal with the ls1 is that the cam gallery gets the oil first and the crank gets its oil last, so the ls1 requires a lot of oil pressure in order to keep it happy (this is not a bug it is a feature lol).
the early oil pumps would have the releif stick in the open position thus allowing the oil pressure to drop into the 20's at idle and low rpm's, this is not good due to the non-priority main oiling system.
the later oil pumps 2001 and later i think, had an improved spring/valve setup. if you are planning to buy a car equiped with an LS1 just check the oil pressure at idle, it should be > 30psi. also if you plan to add a blower you will be pinning the crank and it would be in your best intrest to replace the oil pump at that time with a later than 2001 oil pump (a ported and shimed pump would be even better).
also porting and shimming an oil pump takes about 2 hours to do and is not that hard to do once the oil pump is out of the car.
More Than Zero
ps while replacing the oil pump I would do the cam and replace the timming chain with an LS2 chain.
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Many of us idle in the 20's w/ no problems. As long as pressure builds with RPM, it should be ok. Keep searching threads & you'll find one where a guy who has built many new engines w/pumps noted that more often then not, they idle in the 20's. If you are worried, install a new pump. For sure, keep an eye on the oil pressure.
and yes the oil pump springs/valve in the 98's were the most prone to go out.
I run at 40+ at hot idle after installing a shimed and ported oil pump in my 99 C5, it was at 30+ before the replacment pump.
JMO
More Than Zero
.080 will get you around 10psi at low rpm and on the top end 15psi or so. I used small SS washers, it took 3 to get the .080 also be sure to use locktight on the cap (you do not want that thing backing off wile you are going down the road), also put the washers on the end of the spring that is in the cap not the valve.
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