Cam swap, need help
Originally Posted by WsSickLs6
closeup like whoa...
metal to metal contact, no lube when taking the cam out...I say you should be ok
metal to metal contact, no lube when taking the cam out...I say you should be ok
Originally Posted by MetallicaMatt
can i take the old springs off even though the new cam isn't in yet? everything shows up tmr.
so i have the doll rods holding up the valves
so i have the doll rods holding up the valves
I can't even barely make out those pics, they are so far out of focus. If the spider looking things are the metal shavings you are talking about, that can't be a good thing. My cam had no metal shavings on it what so ever. I don't no enough about the internal engine to give you any advise on what would cause that. I would definetly get some advise from someone more experienced before putting the new cam in.
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those are probably the best pictures i'll beable to get, with flash or just regular lighting, there is too much light reflecting off the cam
the cam looks perfect
something i think could have happened is when i'm taking the cam out, it droped down slightly, and then me turning the cam could have made it grind. the shavings are where the end of the cam has a screw type piece of metal. If that makes sense. its threaded sort of, and has a sharp edge, so maybe (hopefully) it was just from grinding taking things out?
ugh i'm so nervous now
the cam looks perfect
something i think could have happened is when i'm taking the cam out, it droped down slightly, and then me turning the cam could have made it grind. the shavings are where the end of the cam has a screw type piece of metal. If that makes sense. its threaded sort of, and has a sharp edge, so maybe (hopefully) it was just from grinding taking things out?
ugh i'm so nervous now
WHOA!!! That does not look good. I just pulled my stock cam out today and I had nothing like that..good lord. mine looks like it just cam out of the box with just some small lines where the rollers..well roll. so..yea. see if you can stick a borescope in there to take a better look.
Ski
Ski
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no borescope for me
ugh
now what....if it had been a problem, shouldn't there be shavings in my oil? i could check that?
i did just start it up the other day after it was sitting for a month or so...ugh i dunno
i'm so nervous now
ugh
now what....if it had been a problem, shouldn't there be shavings in my oil? i could check that? i did just start it up the other day after it was sitting for a month or so...ugh i dunno
i'm so nervous now
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now that i think of it....i let the cam sorta hang there out of the block...at an angle, could have gotten the shavings from that. how do i know all the shavings are cleaned out of the block? any way to notice?
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Originally Posted by MetallicaMatt
those are probably the best pictures i'll beable to get, with flash or just regular lighting, there is too much light reflecting off the cam
the cam looks perfect
something i think could have happened is when i'm taking the cam out, it droped down slightly, and then me turning the cam could have made it grind. the shavings are where the end of the cam has a screw type piece of metal. If that makes sense. its threaded sort of, and has a sharp edge, so maybe (hopefully) it was just from grinding taking things out?
ugh i'm so nervous now
the cam looks perfect
something i think could have happened is when i'm taking the cam out, it droped down slightly, and then me turning the cam could have made it grind. the shavings are where the end of the cam has a screw type piece of metal. If that makes sense. its threaded sort of, and has a sharp edge, so maybe (hopefully) it was just from grinding taking things out?
ugh i'm so nervous now
Just an idea to see what didn't come out with the cam, you can get one of those magnet pens that extend. They are only a couple bucks, you can get one at sears or autozone. Extend it and move it around inside and see how much more is in there.
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okay i went out to the garage to look at the car. the shavings on the cam are aluminum. it really isn't a lot of shavings, just a couple of long ones, plus the close up view makes it looks like a ton i believe.
the front most bearing had some light scratches in it, from me taking the cam out. seems okay. I looked with a mirror back into the engine, nothing sticks out, but you can't get a great view. i ran my pen magnet all the way to the back of the engine and touched on each of the bearings, i didn't pick up any shavings. then again, remember these were aluminum. there was oil on the cam when it cam out, so the shavings were sticking to the cam. I believe i collected shavings as i pulled out the cam.
i don't see what could be wrong with the motor....any other suggestions? new cam shows up tmr...
the front most bearing had some light scratches in it, from me taking the cam out. seems okay. I looked with a mirror back into the engine, nothing sticks out, but you can't get a great view. i ran my pen magnet all the way to the back of the engine and touched on each of the bearings, i didn't pick up any shavings. then again, remember these were aluminum. there was oil on the cam when it cam out, so the shavings were sticking to the cam. I believe i collected shavings as i pulled out the cam.
i don't see what could be wrong with the motor....any other suggestions? new cam shows up tmr...
Pull your cam sensor and check to see something isn't FUBAR with it. That screw-thing you were talking about is for the magnetic pickup sitting on the backmost part of the block (I think...), right by the coolant bypass lines. Pull it and check there.
If I were you, I'd be VERY reluctant to do anything until I figured out what that metal is coming from. No sense in rushing to stuff a new cam in just to ruin it, and possibly the bearings.
And, in an earlier post about your valve springs, I would change them after you get the cam in. No sense in letting the lifters just hang there any longer than they have to. Also, If you are using www.ls1howto.com's guide, I'd recommend you use the pressurized cylinder method to change springs, but if you can't do that, then the Top Dead Center method is just as good. Just be sure you are pulling the springs from the cylinders that are at their TDC. Otherwise, it could get ugly.
But whatever happens, Good luck!
If I were you, I'd be VERY reluctant to do anything until I figured out what that metal is coming from. No sense in rushing to stuff a new cam in just to ruin it, and possibly the bearings.
And, in an earlier post about your valve springs, I would change them after you get the cam in. No sense in letting the lifters just hang there any longer than they have to. Also, If you are using www.ls1howto.com's guide, I'd recommend you use the pressurized cylinder method to change springs, but if you can't do that, then the Top Dead Center method is just as good. Just be sure you are pulling the springs from the cylinders that are at their TDC. Otherwise, it could get ugly.
But whatever happens, Good luck!
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where is my cam sensor? and the magnetic pickup? or is that pretty much all the same thing? well i would like to wait to put in the cam, but not too much i can really do
i will try the air pressure method if i can find the right fittings. thanks for that advice
i will try the air pressure method if i can find the right fittings. thanks for that advice
Originally Posted by BlackZCamaro
Pull your cam sensor and check to see something isn't FUBAR with it. That screw-thing you were talking about is for the magnetic pickup sitting on the backmost part of the block (I think...), right by the coolant bypass lines. Pull it and check there.
If I were you, I'd be VERY reluctant to do anything until I figured out what that metal is coming from. No sense in rushing to stuff a new cam in just to ruin it, and possibly the bearings.
And, in an earlier post about your valve springs, I would change them after you get the cam in. No sense in letting the lifters just hang there any longer than they have to. Also, If you are using www.ls1howto.com's guide, I'd recommend you use the pressurized cylinder method to change springs, but if you can't do that, then the Top Dead Center method is just as good. Just be sure you are pulling the springs from the cylinders that are at their TDC. Otherwise, it could get ugly.
But whatever happens, Good luck!
If I were you, I'd be VERY reluctant to do anything until I figured out what that metal is coming from. No sense in rushing to stuff a new cam in just to ruin it, and possibly the bearings.
And, in an earlier post about your valve springs, I would change them after you get the cam in. No sense in letting the lifters just hang there any longer than they have to. Also, If you are using www.ls1howto.com's guide, I'd recommend you use the pressurized cylinder method to change springs, but if you can't do that, then the Top Dead Center method is just as good. Just be sure you are pulling the springs from the cylinders that are at their TDC. Otherwise, it could get ugly.
But whatever happens, Good luck!
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and when i do pull the sensor, what good will that do? how will i get it out with the motor still being in the car?
anything i have to be careful about, as far as not moving it or what not
anything i have to be careful about, as far as not moving it or what not
The cam sensor is plastic coated, it is not coming from that. It looks like you scraped a lobe against the block which is softer than the cam. If it is aluminum i can't see how it could be a lifter since they aren't aluminum. Did you spin the cam while it was resting out of the bearings?