Lifter tool for cam swap
01-24-2006, 09:40 PM
#1
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,476
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Lifter tool for cam swap The holes in the LS1 block that are used to insert the 5/16 inch rod in, to hold the lifters from droppin during a cam swap, measure 1/2 inch dia. Can a larger 3/8 dia. rod be used with no problem.
Trending Topics
01-25-2006, 08:24 PM
#8
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (28)
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 522
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just make sure they are EXTREMELY straight. I work at a Home Depot, and I get new dowels every now and then for swaps, and I always go through each one in the racking and whatever we have in the overstock.
5/16" is the right size for it. Some people sand it down on one side, but I feel they are too loose when sanded down. All I do is run a fine sandpaper on the dowels to get rid of any loose shavings, then put some oil on them, and slide it in as I spin the cam. Works like a charm
5/16" is the right size for it. Some people sand it down on one side, but I feel they are too loose when sanded down. All I do is run a fine sandpaper on the dowels to get rid of any loose shavings, then put some oil on them, and slide it in as I spin the cam. Works like a charm
01-27-2006, 11:37 PM
#12
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Savannah, GA
Posts: 300
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
im going to do a cam swap myself and im going to pay someone else do the springs. so was i wondering in order to change just the cam do i have to loosen rockers to allow lifters to raise up to slide the 5/16 rod in? or can i turn cam and push up lifters and slide rod in w/o taking valve covers off.
01-28-2006, 06:32 AM
#13
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (28)
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 522
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The rockers need to come off completely. Also, I don't know how you plan to do it, but I hop you're not going to drive the car with the new cam in it on stock springs. Why not do the springs yourself too? They're pretty easy...
01-28-2006, 09:09 AM
#15
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Savannah, GA
Posts: 300
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well i would im just dont know how to determine if car is top dead center and also i dont know how much to turn it to do the other springs, i dont want to drop a valve. does anyone know the easist way to check on top dead center
01-28-2006, 09:50 AM
#16
Launching!
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Central CT
Posts: 229
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
read the write up on ls1 how to.. the instuctions for TDC is a little more than half way down the page
http://ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23
http://ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23
01-30-2006, 08:27 AM
#19
as long as you check for coil bind and DO NOT spin the motor up AT ALL I don't see why you couldn't drive it with stock springs to the shop to get them replaced. If you spin it though your going to float the valves and destroy your motor, and with these weak springs too much might be 3000RPM!
you're still better off learning to do it yourself, its not tough just takes some time.
you're still better off learning to do it yourself, its not tough just takes some time.
01-30-2006, 09:06 AM
#20
As soon as you crank the car with stock springs and a decent cam (anything over like .550) they will snap or your rockers will break. There is a thing called coil bind. When that happens you are screwed, it doesn't matter, how high you rev the engine.
I used 5/16" wooden dowels that I stuck one end in a pencil sharpener to get to a point. Spun the cam fast a few time and then stuck the rods through the holes.
I used 5/16" wooden dowels that I stuck one end in a pencil sharpener to get to a point. Spun the cam fast a few time and then stuck the rods through the holes.