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The fastest/biggest head/cam combo on stock LS1 and still be reliable?

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Old 01-29-2006, 10:20 AM
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Default The fastest/biggest head/cam combo on stock LS1 and still be reliable?

Hey, jsut like the title says, about what is the biggest head/cam combo you can go on a stock LS1 with bolt ons and still be reliable to drive everyday? Like is there any combo that could put out like 450 to rears and still be able to drive everyday without issues? Im not talking t-rex crazy big but maybe like MS3 or about that size and some powerful heads? If you were going to build a car for everyday driving i nthe summer and wanted it to be as fast/powerful as you could but still be fine to drive everyday, what combo would you go with? Thanks!
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Old 01-29-2006, 11:00 AM
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Cams in the 23x/23x durations.
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Old 01-29-2006, 11:22 AM
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haha, you are always the one answering my questions on internal engine, haha thanks. So if iwere to say go with a big cam like the MS3, what would be a powerful head to compliment it?
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Old 01-29-2006, 12:09 PM
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i just oredered an MS3 and Jason at TSP suggested ther new PRC Dart CNC ported stage 2 heads. Thats what i went with... in a week or 2 i will let you no . Also look at ET 225's i was thinking of goin with them but i didnt like the 8 week back order
Old 01-29-2006, 12:19 PM
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Ah sweet, yea im real interested in the number your going to put out, what are you thinking it will do?
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Old 01-29-2006, 12:32 PM
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I Have A Brand New Set Of Afr 225 Cc For Sale Still In The Box If Interested
Old 01-29-2006, 12:43 PM
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you're forgetting quite a few factors in your "biggest" and "most reliable".

like to change springs often? cool, get a nice big cam with a huge lift. have fun changing springs every 10-12k mi

other "little" maintenance issues of that nature.

supporting mods.. you've a '99, and i do not see you owning a ls6 intake. you need it, for a cam. any cam, really. how's your exhaust setup? what about the torque converter that you still haven't decided what stall rating you want? if you get a 3800 stall, you dont want your heads/cam combo to peak at, say, 3200 rpms. do you? no.. you want it to peak either at 3800 or slightly higher, such as 4000 rpms.

i am too lazy to list all the other million of things you keep forgetting, i'll leave it as an exercise to you.

there's no one size fits all solution. you need to consider *all* factors.
Old 01-29-2006, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by firechicken2k
you're forgetting quite a few factors in your "biggest" and "most reliable".

like to change springs often? cool, get a nice big cam with a huge lift. have fun changing springs every 10-12k mi
The example he gave was an MS3. You can go that big or even a little bigger and not have to change springs after 10-12k miles. Double that mileage at least.
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Old 01-29-2006, 12:49 PM
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Yea. i am by no means talking about ordering this week, if ever even. im jsut trying to get some knowledge on good combos. I am focusing on finishing bolt ons right now. and what not. No i dont want to be switching springs all the time but i guess 12k wouldnt be that bad, it would be about every 2 years for me which i wouldnt mind. I dont mean biggest in general, im trying to find a big combo thats still reliable, like the biggest i oculd go and still keep it reliable. Thanks for allthe info!
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Old 01-29-2006, 12:50 PM
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Yea im definately looking at least MS3 if i get a cam, im not skimping.
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Old 01-29-2006, 01:01 PM
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Im going with Comp Cams Custom Grind 230/234 591/598 114+4 and AFR 205's milled to 59cc chambers. That should give me 11.3:1 compression ratio. The only issue with going with a bigger cam can be piston to valve clearence. I believe that I will have to flycut my pistons to allow for clearence.

Like you I dont have a 2001+ car so I also have to purchase a Ls6 or better intake manifold, Ls6 oil pump, Ls2 timing chain, new head bolts, water pump gaskets, crank seal, head gaskets, timing cover gasket, headers (if I dont want to lose 40rwhp to the stockers) and all the tools to do it myself if I dont want to lose big $ to labour fees. Its alot of fun learning about the car by taking it apart. www.ls1howto.com will tell you everything that you need to do a H/C install.
Old 01-29-2006, 01:03 PM
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Oh yea and good to see that you already have the underdrive pulley, I forgot to list that.
Old 01-29-2006, 01:23 PM
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Yea, ill have the headers and ls6 intake befor ei do this and when i do it, ill get all the stuff, springs, seats, seals, lifters, pushrods, timing chain, pump, all the stuff.
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Old 01-29-2006, 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Superman09
Ah sweet, yea im real interested in the number your going to put out, what are you thinking it will do?
i am not really sure threw my 9inch i would like 430ish... then the fast 90/90 next and well see what we can do
Old 01-29-2006, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by blkZ28spt
The example he gave was an MS3. You can go that big or even a little bigger and not have to change springs after 10-12k miles. Double that mileage at least.
Old 01-29-2006, 03:11 PM
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Well with ported and milled LS1 heads, ls6 intake, ported TB, 236/230 ~.600 lift on a 114, with longtubes and I put down 450rwhp. Did not touch the bottom end. Stock 10 bolt still holding up.
Old 01-29-2006, 04:09 PM
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I seem to have a big cam according to some people, some cnice heads and I should of reached 440-450rwhp on the stock ls1 block. I think the most rwhp a stock ls1 block will reach with just a big H/C is around that area.
Old 01-29-2006, 04:52 PM
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pushinfreight, those are some big numbers! How much does it cost to have a shop port and mill your stock ls1 heads? Im looking for a reliable set up to possibly net over 430 to rears threw stalled A4
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Old 01-30-2006, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Superman09
pushinfreight, those are some big numbers! How much does it cost to have a shop port and mill your stock ls1 heads? Im looking for a reliable set up to possibly net over 430 to rears threw stalled A4
I had all the bolt-on, cam head work done all at once. With parts and labor you need to expect 4-5k for the work. Now saying that some are going to say that I paid way too much but I went with the following parts:
921 springs
milled and hand ported LS1 heads and were coated, yeilded 11.7:1 comp
arp bolts and head studs
oil pump was cleaned up of all imperfections
long tubes
custom hooker y pipe
custom tune- many hours of tuning at the dyno and street
custom grind cam

Now that being said, does it drive like it was stock? Hell no. The car does not like to go below 1500rpm on the street. The stock rings or one of the pistons gave up the ghost recently but lasted longer than I thought(oil in the inake and smoke about 5k at wot). At the 450+ range on the stock bottom end will go about 10k miles without issues. Anything after that is borrowed time. If you go 430 rwhp on the stock bottom end NA will put you right where you need to be. I would say go with a 23x/23x cam on a 112 and get the best heads you can. Go with head studs and arp bolts all the way around, double roller timing chain, LS6 or LSX78mm intake, ported stock TB, 30lb+ injectors, lt, no cats and custom tune will give you a very fun car that can be daily driven. I would not go below a 3500 stall myself.
Old 01-30-2006, 11:22 AM
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I would say go with a 23x/23x cam on a 112 and get the best heads you can. Go with head studs and arp bolts all the way around, double roller timing chain, LS6 or LSX78mm intake, ported stock TB, 30lb+ injectors, lt, no cats and custom tune will give you a very fun car that can be daily driven. I would not go below a 3500 stall myself.
That was my suggestion as well.
Well said Pushinfreight


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