224/228 112lsa
02-20-2006, 08:30 PM
#5
hmm, definately disagree with ^^^..
East Side Performance (sponsor) highly, highly recommends the 224/228 cam as excellent power maker, and streetable. Tons of people use it and get awesome results. I'll post my dyno sheets in a few weeks for ya when I get it done (parts sitting in car still, waiting on heads
). That whole shop recommends and loves that cam, and you'll find a lot of people impressed with it.
I'll also add that with the ls1edit program, people who have that cam have no cold start problems, or idling, surging.. etc.
East Side Performance (sponsor) highly, highly recommends the 224/228 cam as excellent power maker, and streetable. Tons of people use it and get awesome results. I'll post my dyno sheets in a few weeks for ya when I get it done (parts sitting in car still, waiting on heads
). That whole shop recommends and loves that cam, and you'll find a lot of people impressed with it.I'll also add that with the ls1edit program, people who have that cam have no cold start problems, or idling, surging.. etc.
02-20-2006, 10:10 PM
#6
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Originally Posted by Deutch420
i was looking at the reverse spec 230/224, but was wondering how the 224/228 compairs/runs.
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02-21-2006, 09:21 AM
#9
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Originally Posted by gollum
Keep your stock cam, add 1.85 rockers, and use a dry nitrous system. In the long run you will thank me for what I just said.
1.85 rockers gave me a whole whopping 9 rwhp when i had them on.
he can run that cam with juice and make plenty of power.
btw, you dont need to worry about refilling a cam like you do nitrous.
02-21-2006, 09:39 AM
#10
I'm one of the guys from eastside's shop that has a cam like this, but more lift then stated above.. and I was very happy with it. I've since added a good set of ls6 heads to the equation, and will be swappin in a th400 as well, with good sized stall, we'll see what this cam is capable of soon enough. Took my 3750 lb car w/ driver to 12.2 last year with a 1.72 60 foot, which still wasn't all too great IMO. Made 403 rwhp thru a 12 bolt and a steel driveshaft, so with stock drivetrain, it would have been in the 410 to 415 range I'd guess. M6 car.
02-21-2006, 10:13 AM
#11
If its a street car you wont beat the tr224 112lsa. Of its a drag car then you should go bigger. If its an occasional track car and mainly a daily driver the tr224 is the best cam on the planet IMHO. Numbers in sig. I'm putting 440-450 ish RWHP and about 420'ish torque. You wont find a cam that produces as much as fast and holds it as long. There are bigger cams out there but they move the power band higher into the rpm range. Where do you want your power, how many rpms do you want to run at to be in your power range. Bigger is not always better when it comes to cams. the tr224 112lsa has .563 of lift as well and still outpulls most other cams its size. Theres more to it than bigger duration. Lobe design plays a key part as well. I just came from a mustang dyno shop where someone was disappointed with their numbers. They had a 224/228, patriot heads, all the boltons, a moser 12 bolt and an auto. they didnt come close to my numbers but the moser and the auto had a lot to do with it, but not all. The only real decent output(matching mine) I've seen from a 224/228 had AFR heads on it and a custom cam. Again this is within an rpm range. I rev limit to 6300, bigger cams want to run past that to obtain their max effort.
02-21-2006, 10:29 AM
#12
Guy had patriot heads on his car.. there's the problem. The tr224 is a good cam don't get me wrong, but hasn't got enough lift to utilize 90 % of the heads out there, with only 560 lift, there's alot being left on the table.
Like I said earlier, I made 403, with a steel driveshaft and a moser 12 bolt w/ 4.10's, qtp non merge longtubes, a catted Y pipe, LM catback, slp lid, bellow, ported TB,and an underdrive pulley. Stock t stat, stock water pump, stock maf, stock flywheel.
If I had the stock driveline in the car, I'm sure that alone would have put it to 415. the steel driveshaft I am using weigh's 10 lbs more then a stock one! The rear is a good 10 hp sucker on the dyno from stock as well.
Add in an electric water pump that 1/2 the guys that put up big dyno #'s are running, there's another 5 to 8 hp... depending on who you listen to.
Dont' get me wrong, i agree completely about all the monster cams out there today and the fact that they don't work, I know of a person that put a big tsp cam in their car along with afr heads, and on drag radials still didn't put up **** for a #... it made like 410 rwhp thru the stock driveline. Cam size has alot to do with where the power is made, as well as how much power is made. If you have a very light car, then a cam that makes power at high rpm's is going to work great, as it won't need power down low to get the car moving.... but if your car is a street car, or just a heavy car regardless of the use it sees, then a smaller duration cam is going to work better for you.
Like I said earlier, I made 403, with a steel driveshaft and a moser 12 bolt w/ 4.10's, qtp non merge longtubes, a catted Y pipe, LM catback, slp lid, bellow, ported TB,and an underdrive pulley. Stock t stat, stock water pump, stock maf, stock flywheel.
If I had the stock driveline in the car, I'm sure that alone would have put it to 415. the steel driveshaft I am using weigh's 10 lbs more then a stock one! The rear is a good 10 hp sucker on the dyno from stock as well.
Add in an electric water pump that 1/2 the guys that put up big dyno #'s are running, there's another 5 to 8 hp... depending on who you listen to.
Dont' get me wrong, i agree completely about all the monster cams out there today and the fact that they don't work, I know of a person that put a big tsp cam in their car along with afr heads, and on drag radials still didn't put up **** for a #... it made like 410 rwhp thru the stock driveline. Cam size has alot to do with where the power is made, as well as how much power is made. If you have a very light car, then a cam that makes power at high rpm's is going to work great, as it won't need power down low to get the car moving.... but if your car is a street car, or just a heavy car regardless of the use it sees, then a smaller duration cam is going to work better for you.
02-21-2006, 10:49 AM
#13
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I had and recently sold a Cartek 2x cam 224/228 113LSA. Drove excellent, and with hooker headers, ORY, Borla and airlid put down 390RWHP. IMO this was the best cam for a daily driven car.
02-21-2006, 11:04 AM
#14
Originally Posted by JL ws-6
Guy had patriot heads on his car.. there's the problem. The tr224 is a good cam don't get me wrong, but hasn't got enough lift to utilize 90 % of the heads out there, with only 560 lift, there's alot being left on the table.
Like I said earlier, I made 403, with a steel driveshaft and a moser 12 bolt w/ 4.10's, qtp non merge longtubes, a catted Y pipe, LM catback, slp lid, bellow, ported TB,and an underdrive pulley. Stock t stat, stock water pump, stock maf, stock flywheel.
If I had the stock driveline in the car, I'm sure that alone would have put it to 415. the steel driveshaft I am using weigh's 10 lbs more then a stock one! The rear is a good 10 hp sucker on the dyno from stock as well.
Add in an electric water pump that 1/2 the guys that put up big dyno #'s are running, there's another 5 to 8 hp... depending on who you listen to.
Dont' get me wrong, i agree completely about all the monster cams out there today and the fact that they don't work, I know of a person that put a big tsp cam in their car along with afr heads, and on drag radials still didn't put up **** for a #... it made like 410 rwhp thru the stock driveline. Cam size has alot to do with where the power is made, as well as how much power is made. If you have a very light car, then a cam that makes power at high rpm's is going to work great, as it won't need power down low to get the car moving.... but if your car is a street car, or just a heavy car regardless of the use it sees, then a smaller duration cam is going to work better for you.
Like I said earlier, I made 403, with a steel driveshaft and a moser 12 bolt w/ 4.10's, qtp non merge longtubes, a catted Y pipe, LM catback, slp lid, bellow, ported TB,and an underdrive pulley. Stock t stat, stock water pump, stock maf, stock flywheel.
If I had the stock driveline in the car, I'm sure that alone would have put it to 415. the steel driveshaft I am using weigh's 10 lbs more then a stock one! The rear is a good 10 hp sucker on the dyno from stock as well.
Add in an electric water pump that 1/2 the guys that put up big dyno #'s are running, there's another 5 to 8 hp... depending on who you listen to.
Dont' get me wrong, i agree completely about all the monster cams out there today and the fact that they don't work, I know of a person that put a big tsp cam in their car along with afr heads, and on drag radials still didn't put up **** for a #... it made like 410 rwhp thru the stock driveline. Cam size has alot to do with where the power is made, as well as how much power is made. If you have a very light car, then a cam that makes power at high rpm's is going to work great, as it won't need power down low to get the car moving.... but if your car is a street car, or just a heavy car regardless of the use it sees, then a smaller duration cam is going to work better for you.
02-21-2006, 04:01 PM
#16
Originally Posted by sickss228
I had and recently sold a Cartek 2x cam 224/228 113LSA. Drove excellent, and with hooker headers, ORY, Borla and airlid put down 390RWHP. IMO this was the best cam for a daily driven car.
02-21-2006, 05:59 PM
#20
Originally Posted by Dave00C5
With the inherint flow characteristics of the LS1/LS6 head why would anyone want a reverse split cam? Get the 224/228 or even a 228/232 or so as these have proven themselves.
