I'm F*****
#22
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Originally Posted by Detroitmuscle
Ok well heres a thought, the install guide doesn't say to line up the dots prior to removing the cam, so does it matter if the cam gear is matched up to the dot on either rotation? It takes two rotations to full turn the piston up or down but does this effect the install?
Last edited by DrkPhx; 02-23-2006 at 10:20 PM.
#23
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Originally Posted by Detroitmuscle
On another though could my pushrods be too short? I do have the new ETP 4.8/5.3 heads and they are supposed to have a longer deck. I'm using the Comp 7.4" ones.
#25
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Originally Posted by Detroitmuscle
OK well this was my first time ever touching an engine really so I followed the guide exactly and is says nothing about being top dead center so no I didn't. The pushrod thing was brought up on another forum and now I'm realizing all this.
I still say it backwards coil packs.
#27
Well actually I could since I had to change over the valve covers and PCV system for the heads since they aren't the 98s. They are numbered and I did actually flip one side 180 degrees because they were on wrong but no workie. I'm gonna get a pushrod length tool tomorrow and see if they are the wrong size then take it from there.
#28
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Originally Posted by Detroitmuscle
OK well this was my first time ever touching an engine really so I followed the guide exactly and is says nothing about being top dead center so no I didn't. The pushrod thing was brought up on another forum and now I'm realizing all this.
BTW - I'm just trying to help you out. Everyone makes mistakes, that's how you learn (God knows I've screwed up before ). Just be patient, pay attention to the details, do alot of research and always ask questions when in doubt.
#30
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I'm with sux2bu, I bet its coils. When you removed them did you keep them in order? If you didnt then you couldnt put them back in order. I labled all my stuff and had two seperate boxes for right and left side of car as well. Did you have pressure on the rockers when you tightened them? You would know right there really if they just screwed into place without resistance. They wont be too long in this case they'll be short if the deck is that much thicker. I've not heard of people having to go to longer pushrods, shorter yes, but not longer. But who knows. I still say sux is right.
the install guide works fine I used it, had no trouble. cam sproket only goes on one way and you cant screw up the dots unless your just not paying attention. As long as your timing chain was on right I dont see trouble there. Did you replace the timing chain?
the install guide works fine I used it, had no trouble. cam sproket only goes on one way and you cant screw up the dots unless your just not paying attention. As long as your timing chain was on right I dont see trouble there. Did you replace the timing chain?
#31
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Originally Posted by DrkPhx
Followed what guide? You need to tear it down, set #1 to TDC, align the sprockets, install the correct pushrods and hope there is no engine damage.
#34
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Your car is acting just like mine did when I had the coil packs on backwards. My first thought when my car ran like crap, was that I was a tooth off, even though everything looked perfectly lined up at the time. I was glad to find out that the only problem was the coil packs. Don't worry about TDC, just line the dots up.
#36
OK well I know the coil packs are on the right sides becuase I kep them that way when I removed them. I supposed they may be flipped around. They actually have numbers labeling them to which cylinder they should be at, it also has two labels (ex. the first one on the driver side is 1/8 second one on driver side is 3/5) so I pretty much know they are on correctly unless you guys look at your cars and its a unanimous vote that they are wrong. To clear up the confusions, my car has not started yet, it will not fire up. It just cranks the started over and then nothing happens, after a couple of trys it'll backfire and thats it. So how could I easily tell if they were the wrong pushrods?
#37
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isn't the rule of thumb for hydrolic lifters is you should be able to spin pushrod till the last full turn of the bolt?
if they are to loose, you'll still be able to fire up the car, you'll just have alot of clatter in the valvetrain.
if you've already tried the coil packs, pull the cam out and try it again with it on TDC and the dot straight up. you didn't happen to get a new timing chain or anything to where you had to pull the crank sprocket did you?
if they are to loose, you'll still be able to fire up the car, you'll just have alot of clatter in the valvetrain.
if you've already tried the coil packs, pull the cam out and try it again with it on TDC and the dot straight up. you didn't happen to get a new timing chain or anything to where you had to pull the crank sprocket did you?
#38
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Originally Posted by 99blancoSS
Not sure what your talking about here. The cam and cam sprocket are keyed. You cant put the cam sprocket on wrong. Thats it, then line up the dot with the crank sproket dot and your done. TDC is worried about when changing out valve springs using rope in the cylinder to support the valve. Telling him to tear it down is incorrect at this point.
#40
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As long as the pushrods are not to far off (and i'm sure they are not), then you should be able to fire the car up. Between the lifter pumping up to max and the fact it probly is not that much off or off at all anyway, I would not currently worry about that, other then to take a quick glance at it. The hard part of your project is done (the heads). This part shouldn't take you more then a few hours from start to finish.
Good luck!
Good luck!