How to flycut?
How to flycut? Is there a guide or anything on how to take the measurements and how to figure out how deep you need to cut??
I'm really looking at flycutting as my setup may very well need it. My heads were milled .05 and then I will be running a 228/232 cam. I read the Isky how to guide, but I want to know how you figure how big your cuts need to be and what not, can anyone help me?
I'm really looking at flycutting as my setup may very well need it. My heads were milled .05 and then I will be running a 228/232 cam. I read the Isky how to guide, but I want to know how you figure how big your cuts need to be and what not, can anyone help me?
Originally Posted by Azar
Is there a guide or anything on how to take the measurements and how to figure out how deep you need to cut??
I'm really looking at flycutting as my setup may very well need it. My heads were milled .05 and then I will be running a 228/232 cam. I read the Isky how to guide, but I want to know how you figure how big your cuts need to be and what not, can anyone help me?
I'm really looking at flycutting as my setup may very well need it. My heads were milled .05 and then I will be running a 228/232 cam. I read the Isky how to guide, but I want to know how you figure how big your cuts need to be and what not, can anyone help me?
http://www.ffhp.net/tech_Isky.htm
Originally Posted by Xtnct00WS6
You don't really need a spare head with the valve seat taken out do you? Couldn't you just not put the piston exactly at TDC?
Originally Posted by Xtnct00WS6
You don't really need a spare head with the valve seat taken out do you? Couldn't you just not put the piston exactly at TDC?
http://www.ihearyou.com/~tony/pictures/flycut/
-Tony
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Originally Posted by GuitsBoy
Thats a negative, ghostrider. Reason being is that the valve is at a 15 degree angle. With the piston 1/4" down, the cutter will have moved over considerably. when the engine is running and the piston comes up to tdc, the valve will be directly over the uncut portion. Look around for a head that somebody tried porting themselves, but went through a waterjacket. You can probably get one preyyt cheap. If you have access to a lathe, I can write up instructions on how to make your own cutter from a 5/16 bolt, scrap steel and adhesive sandpaper, so that you dont have to buy the isky one for a few hundred bucks.
http://www.ihearyou.com/~tony/pictures/flycut/
-Tony
http://www.ihearyou.com/~tony/pictures/flycut/
-Tony
What do you think about getting a piece of metal and make it to the right diameter. Then attach it to the bottom of a spare valve?
Originally Posted by Xtnct00WS6
Ohhhhh...Had to think about that one for a sec. Damn.
What do you think about getting a piece of metal and make it to the right diameter. Then attach it to the bottom of a spare valve?
What do you think about getting a piece of metal and make it to the right diameter. Then attach it to the bottom of a spare valve?
You would have to be very precise with cutting the sandpaper to match the size of the valve.
Well, you usually want to go a bit bigger than the valve. Usually 2.125 / 1.675 cuts. And I would certainly not use a good head to do the cutting if you plan on using the head again.
Here is what I did. I called TEA and they loaned me a blank head with no valve seats in it. For tooling purpose. But the cut the valve stem holes to 11/32". I bought a 11/32" pilot tool from Isky cams along with the right size cutters needed for the int/ext.
I used clay on top of the pistons, bolted the head on with the gasket, then rotated the motor a few times. Pulled the head back off. I cut a pie piece out of the clay and measured how thick it was at the shallowest point.
Trust me, a home made tool will not get it done. You WILL end up buying the right tools. The cutter starts cutting on the edge of the tool first. It would wear out the sand paper very quick. The tool is made of a very hard steel.
I was not sure how much to cut at first and ended up cutting deeper than I needed to.
I learned a lot doing this.
I will put up some pics in a sec!
I used clay on top of the pistons, bolted the head on with the gasket, then rotated the motor a few times. Pulled the head back off. I cut a pie piece out of the clay and measured how thick it was at the shallowest point.
Trust me, a home made tool will not get it done. You WILL end up buying the right tools. The cutter starts cutting on the edge of the tool first. It would wear out the sand paper very quick. The tool is made of a very hard steel.
I was not sure how much to cut at first and ended up cutting deeper than I needed to.
I learned a lot doing this.
I will put up some pics in a sec!
Originally Posted by JRracing
Trust me, a home made tool will not get it done. You WILL end up buying the right tools.
This home made cutter has sucessfully cut pistons in 4 engines.
By the way, JRacing, It looks like you went way past the recommended .080 max .100 depth for stock pistons. I really hope you didnt compromise the pistons's structural integrity.
Originally Posted by GuitsBoy
By the way, JRacing, It looks like you went way past the recommended .080 max .100 depth for stock pistons. I really hope you didnt compromise the pistons's structural integrity.
Sorry guits, I did'nt see your pics of the tool. It looks pretty good. How many grinding disc's do you go through to get an engine done. It seems like it would use them up quickly. What did it cost to make it?
Originally Posted by JRracing
Sorry guits, I did'nt see your pics of the tool. It looks pretty good. How many grinding disc's do you go through to get an engine done. It seems like it would use them up quickly. What did it cost to make it?
I use one disk for each valve relief. Its a little time consuming having to trim 16 sandpaper disks and pull and restick them on, but atleast theyre cheap.The 5/16 x 6" bolt was about $1.00, the three nuts were about $.10 each, the collar was just under $2.00 from mcmaster-carr. The steel, i had laying around, but would be pretty cheap anyway. You do however need access to a lathe, and you need a 5/16 tap. Just drill the center hole, tap, thread onto the bolt with the head cut off, stick it in the lathe, and turn it down to the desired diameter. You then need to chamfer the edge even with the valve seats removed. I just ground the edges down with a dremel. The adhesive sandpaper comes in packs of 5 6" sheets for about $3.00.
Altogather it probably cost about 10 bucks and an hour of my time to make. Although you do need a head without valve seats. With a helper peeling and applying the disks, I can flycut a motor in well under an hour.
Guits Boy, why couldn't you just use a couple of junk valves to do the same thing? I plan on doing this within the week and was planning on just using the valves. If I can't, I would like to know before I have the top end torn off my dd.
Thanks!
Galen
Thanks!
Galen
Originally Posted by JRracing
Thats dam smart of you to make that tool. They are very exspensive from Isky to order.
What size cam are you running on that motor and what cc size in the heads?
What size cam are you running on that motor and what cc size in the heads?