demensions of JRP lifter tool?
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From: CAR LENGTHS AHEAD OF YOU
demensions of JRP lifter tool? I dont want to spend $125 for these two pieces of metal and I have access to a machine shop, so if anyone who owns a set or knows the demensions of these things, it would be greatly appreciated.
Or
If your motor is apart right now, if you would be willing to take the measurements of the hole diameter and then the distance from the flat spot to the edge of the circle.
I have just heard of people still dropping lifters with the 5/16" dowels and dont want to go through the hassel. I am also not using the magnets becsaue of too many people (some I know personally) loosing the magnet to the lifter.
Thanks
Robert
Or
If your motor is apart right now, if you would be willing to take the measurements of the hole diameter and then the distance from the flat spot to the edge of the circle.
I have just heard of people still dropping lifters with the 5/16" dowels and dont want to go through the hassel. I am also not using the magnets becsaue of too many people (some I know personally) loosing the magnet to the lifter.
Thanks
Robert
Originally Posted by Robinator
I have just heard of people still dropping lifters with the 5/16" dowels and dont want to go through the hassel.
I bought an aluminum rod, 1/2" in diameter and cut it approximately in half with a band saw. The heat bent the rod some so I straightened it out by hand and sanded off some of the roughness. Then, I thoroughly cleaned the rods with solvent and dried them off with compressed air. The rods worked great. The flat side goes against the lifter bodies and fits in the little notch.
Here's what the rod looks like when inserted (looking through the lifter bores).
Steve
Here's what the rod looks like when inserted (looking through the lifter bores).
Steve
Last edited by Steve Bryant; Apr 25, 2006 at 06:27 PM.
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From: CAR LENGTHS AHEAD OF YOU
BigBlock...I know how the dowels work its just that some people have said that the lifters still fell after they were already in (like it was too small). I understood where they were coming from because the JRP tools take up the whole opening while the dowels are round and cant. Maybe I'm just over reacting to the whole deal. I am just on a strickt time frame this weekend and dont need any extra work to deal with, you know?
shouldaboughtthez...Are you sure they were 18". That seems real short. I thought most people were using 24". If 18" worked, that would be exelent becasue then I might not have to move the condesor.
Steve...I like your idea but your rods would still have a 1/2" diameter. That hole is not that big. Am i missing something that you did?
Thank you for all your input and sorry if I seem like I am putting some of your ideas down. Im not trying to, but am just real stressed about this weekend. I have 50 hours of work to do in 48 hours. Some of you know what that is like.
Thanks
Robert
shouldaboughtthez...Are you sure they were 18". That seems real short. I thought most people were using 24". If 18" worked, that would be exelent becasue then I might not have to move the condesor.
Steve...I like your idea but your rods would still have a 1/2" diameter. That hole is not that big. Am i missing something that you did?
Thank you for all your input and sorry if I seem like I am putting some of your ideas down. Im not trying to, but am just real stressed about this weekend. I have 50 hours of work to do in 48 hours
. Some of you know what that is like.Thanks
Robert
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Originally Posted by Robinator
the JRP tools take up the whole opening while the dowels are round and cant.
Robert
Robert
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Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Dallas TX
If you get the dowel rods they take up most of the hole. I did my first cam swap and I used those and it worked just fine. There was barely enough room
On the condensor thing. I don't know about the JPR tool but the dowel is just flexible enough so you don't have to remove the condensor and you aren't putting so much stress on them that they will break. Just make sure the lifters are up and there shouldn't be a problem. I took some pics of mine with the dowels in, I'll post when I get home
On the condensor thing. I don't know about the JPR tool but the dowel is just flexible enough so you don't have to remove the condensor and you aren't putting so much stress on them that they will break. Just make sure the lifters are up and there shouldn't be a problem. I took some pics of mine with the dowels in, I'll post when I get home
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Well i will be installing my first cam this weekend. I know i need 5/16 dowel rods, but im not sure at what length. Can anybody tell me the length i will need. Just for safe measure i will also be using 16 pen magnets as a back up to the rods. Or the rods will be the back up to the magnets, whichever. Also where can i get the longer crank bolt, i have heard from some people that Home Depot doesn't carry it. Also another question i have is on the LS1HowTo.com write-up it says to re-install the old crank bolt a few times for certain things. I thought the old bolt wasn't to be used again, or is it not to be torqued down again? Oh yeah and is there anything the LS1Howto.com write-up forgets to explain or forgets to bring up, or are there any tips you guys can give me to make things easier. Thanks
-Joel
-Joel
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When I did my camswap back in college IN the college parking lot, I had a 4 foot long wooden dowel that I snapped in half. 2 feet is long for each side, but not too long. 2.5 feet is too long though.
I'm still using my original crank bolt, but I used a new, longer one to reinstall the pulley.
A tip for the valve springs, if you're doing them, is buy band aids! And a few extra valve locks wouldn't hurt. If you don't want to buy any, I can mail you mine (for free). I have 7 or so extra from a bag of 10. I used two different spring compressors, one from Adv. Auto, and the other from AutoZone. Both were a pain in the *** to use. There was a thread I saw the other day where someone from LS1Tech designed a new tool... $30 or so... and it looks so much easier to use.
I used the LS1HowTo instructions too, and short of taking out the entire engine, I can't say there was anything that I could have done differently to make it easier. Not that it was hard, just time consuming (valve springs, something like 10 hours? lol). The actual cam swap took about 3-4 hours for me. That is, rocker arm removal, radiator & water pump removal, pulley, timing cover & gear removal... whatever I needed to move to get to the cam and put everything back.
Oh yeah, screw the 'canes.
I'm still using my original crank bolt, but I used a new, longer one to reinstall the pulley.
A tip for the valve springs, if you're doing them, is buy band aids! And a few extra valve locks wouldn't hurt. If you don't want to buy any, I can mail you mine (for free). I have 7 or so extra from a bag of 10. I used two different spring compressors, one from Adv. Auto, and the other from AutoZone. Both were a pain in the *** to use. There was a thread I saw the other day where someone from LS1Tech designed a new tool... $30 or so... and it looks so much easier to use.
I used the LS1HowTo instructions too, and short of taking out the entire engine, I can't say there was anything that I could have done differently to make it easier. Not that it was hard, just time consuming (valve springs, something like 10 hours? lol). The actual cam swap took about 3-4 hours for me. That is, rocker arm removal, radiator & water pump removal, pulley, timing cover & gear removal... whatever I needed to move to get to the cam and put everything back.
Oh yeah, screw the 'canes.
Last edited by Somebody09; Apr 26, 2006 at 10:19 PM.
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From: Miami, Fl. - Hurricane Highway
Does anybody know a store that sells the longer crank bolt (m16x2.0 pitchx120mm). For the valvesprings i got the crane cams compressor. So far from the looks of it, it looks like a very well made tool. And i wouldn't doubt using it will be much easier than others out there considering you do 2 at a time. I will be starting the whole process friday after work, and hope to be finished by sunday night if needed.
The canes will be back at the top very soon, watch out.
-Joel
The canes will be back at the top very soon, watch out.
-Joel
Originally Posted by 2000Hawk
Does anybody know a store that sells the longer crank bolt (m16x2.0 pitchx120mm). For the valvesprings i got the crane cams compressor. So far from the looks of it, it looks like a very well made tool. And i wouldn't doubt using it will be much easier than others out there considering you do 2 at a time. I will be starting the whole process friday after work, and hope to be finished by sunday night if needed.
The canes will be back at the top very soon, watch out.
-Joel
The canes will be back at the top very soon, watch out.
-Joel
Good luck with your install but the canes AKA "the convics" are done for another 10 years you guys make your little run every ten years and then vanish for another ten..
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Lol, as long as we win i don't really care about anything else. You can't always win a championship but **** it. I hope everything goes as planned with my install, last thing i need is to be set back for anything.
-Joel
-Joel
Anderson Ford Motorsport makes a tappet too for Mustangs-it's like a pen magnet but on the end it has a wignut-so you put it it in pull up on the lifter then tighten the wingnut-I woder if it will work on our cars?
Just take your time and stay focused and if you need any help post up on here...between the ls1tech faiful and install university.com and ls1howto.com you have a ton of info available..you'll do just fine..save the beer drinkin till your done for the day.. 
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From: CAR LENGTHS AHEAD OF YOU
Originally Posted by 2000Hawk
Does anybody know a store that sells the longer crank bolt (m16x2.0 pitchx120mm). For the valvesprings i got the crane cams compressor. So far from the looks of it, it looks like a very well made tool. And i wouldn't doubt using it will be much easier than others out there considering you do 2 at a time. I will be starting the whole process friday after work, and hope to be finished by sunday night if needed.
The canes will be back at the top very soon, watch out.
-Joel
The canes will be back at the top very soon, watch out.
-Joel
I went ahead and just bought some 5/16" dowels so well see what happens.
I am in the same boat as you Hawk, except I have to do all of my work between the hours of 6pm-12am Fri. and 9pm-6am sat/sun. Night work sucks when you have shitty neighbors like I do.
Oh well, I just tell them the same answer every time, "ok, I am still going to do it because I have to get it done. I dont care if you call the cops, it isnt going to stop me from working." And to this day, they still call the cops, the cops come over and see that I need to get it done and then get pissed at the neighbors for calling! Sometimes its just funny. Anyways, good luck Hawk.Oh BTW... Napa Auto Parts (Riebees Auto Parts) carries that bolt. My local one supposedly has 14 in stock right now for $5.xx/each.
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Got another question how bad do i really need that longer crank bolt. Because the only place that has it that i called is about 45min. away from my job and they close at 4:30 so going after work is out of the question. I have had to push back my cam install countless times, and i don't want to have to push it back till next weekend. Any help would be great. Thanks
-Joel
-Joel