Anybody have instruction book for Rollmaster chain?
05-18-2006, 10:18 PM
#1
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 148
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Anybody have instruction book for Rollmaster chain? I just purchased Blue35thSS's Rollmaster and didn't get the instruction booklet. Does anyone have one lying around that could scan and email it to me?
Anything would be helpful.
Thanks in advance!
Anything would be helpful.
Thanks in advance!
05-20-2006, 08:37 PM
#7
The instructions aren't worth much because they are written in a little known language called Austrailian. If you're going to use standard timing then you just go DOT to DOT. If you plan on advancing or retarding your timing you're going to need a much better understanding of the process than those instruction provide.
Trending Topics
05-20-2006, 09:53 PM
#8
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Atlanta, Georgia!
Posts: 3,078
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Here's what mine say's:
Fit both sprockets without chain and check for straight edge alignment. .010 thousands Max. Spacer plates must be placed between Oil Pump and Engine Block to allow double row chain to clear pump and crank shoulder casting radius. Use the 4 bolts and washers supplied only to secure oil pump to block. Use a light coating of sealant on larger plate to prevent oil weeping between oil pump and block without blocking main oil passage.
Cam timing marks shown are for standard cam timing only. All other crank keyways are in 2 degree increments advanced or retard 2-4-6-8 the middle key being Std. Keys to left of Std are Adv and Keys to right of Std are Rtd. Note the spacing of Std key to Std timing dot this must be duplicated from the actual non std key you use if dialing in the cam. Do not use Std timing dot if using non Std keyway.
Kinda confusing isn't it.
Fit both sprockets without chain and check for straight edge alignment. .010 thousands Max. Spacer plates must be placed between Oil Pump and Engine Block to allow double row chain to clear pump and crank shoulder casting radius. Use the 4 bolts and washers supplied only to secure oil pump to block. Use a light coating of sealant on larger plate to prevent oil weeping between oil pump and block without blocking main oil passage.
Cam timing marks shown are for standard cam timing only. All other crank keyways are in 2 degree increments advanced or retard 2-4-6-8 the middle key being Std. Keys to left of Std are Adv and Keys to right of Std are Rtd. Note the spacing of Std key to Std timing dot this must be duplicated from the actual non std key you use if dialing in the cam. Do not use Std timing dot if using non Std keyway.
Kinda confusing isn't it.
05-21-2006, 01:30 AM
#9
I forgot to mention the phrase "without blocking main oil passage" is a euphemism for "You can either get it 100% right or 100% wrong. There's a 50/50 chance either way so you should have better instructions than these if you want to increase your odds of getting it right". Bottom line is you only need to pay attention to the shim that goes on the oil pump output port side. You must be SURE the hole in the shim lines up with the port holes in the pump and the block. If all three holes are lined up you're good. If you get the shim turned 180 degrees you will reduce your oil volume by a bunch, but the pressure will probably go up some. One other thing to remember is if you do decide to advance or retard the timing the DOT on your cam sprocket always stays at 6 o'clock no matter what. With this type of system the timing change is done at the crankshaft not the cam. Keep in mind that advancing the crank results in cam being retarded as long as the cam sprocket DOT stays at 6 o'clock during this process. The converse is also true so be SURE you know what your doing if you decide to use timing other than standard.