LS1 machining question
#1
LS1 machining question
How much meat is there on a stock LS1 block to bore? I have a stock 75k motor and I want to order a set of low compression pistons for a turbo buildup but cant seem to find out how much of a bore is too much for the stock liners. Thanks for any input.
#2
Originally Posted by Lason
How much meat is there on a stock LS1 block to bore? I have a stock 75k motor and I want to order a set of low compression pistons for a turbo buildup but cant seem to find out how much of a bore is too much for the stock liners. Thanks for any input.
#3
WOW, so if the cylinder ever gets scarred from a engine failure or it develops a taper from wear and tear then what are people supposed to do? That sucks to hear but thanks for the info.
Also any cons to going with more of a dish? I was looking at diamond -13 to -15cc to get my compression down to around 8-8.5:1. Also using a thicker cometic head gasket to get that compression.
Also any cons to going with more of a dish? I was looking at diamond -13 to -15cc to get my compression down to around 8-8.5:1. Also using a thicker cometic head gasket to get that compression.
#4
these blocks just weren't designed to be repaired, GM wisdom...
going to a -13 or -15cc piston is not a problem, these will be custom pistons as Diamond does not make a 3.905 shelf piston with that much dish, as far as I know.
going to a -13 or -15cc piston is not a problem, these will be custom pistons as Diamond does not make a 3.905 shelf piston with that much dish, as far as I know.
#5
Originally Posted by Demon SS
these blocks just weren't designed to be repaired, GM wisdom...
#6
Originally Posted by Lason
How much meat is there on a stock LS1 block to bore? I have a stock 75k motor and I want to order a set of low compression pistons for a turbo buildup but cant seem to find out how much of a bore is too much for the stock liners. Thanks for any input.
#7
Yeah Im trying to avoid a iron block if at all possible but I thought I read about a LS1's being good .030 over. There is nothing wrong with my motor other than 75K on the odometer and I hate to simply hone the cylinders for new pistons rings as Im sure there is probably a taper after this many miles.
O yeah and new liners is outta the question due to the cost involved at this point. If I do decide to go with new pistons then I guess Ill just do a quick hone and hope for the best.
O yeah and new liners is outta the question due to the cost involved at this point. If I do decide to go with new pistons then I guess Ill just do a quick hone and hope for the best.
Trending Topics
#8
Originally Posted by Lason
Yeah Im trying to avoid a iron block if at all possible but I thought I read about a LS1's being good .030 over. There is nothing wrong with my motor other than 75K on the odometer and I hate to simply hone the cylinders for new pistons rings as Im sure there is probably a taper after this many miles.
O yeah and new liners is outta the question due to the cost involved at this point. If I do decide to go with new pistons then I guess Ill just do a quick hone and hope for the best.
O yeah and new liners is outta the question due to the cost involved at this point. If I do decide to go with new pistons then I guess Ill just do a quick hone and hope for the best.
With modern plateau hone jobs and moly rings and EFI you usually have very little wear anyway so honing to a new larger size that cleans everything up is all that is done.
I have a Sunnen CK10 and it amazing what you can see when you first just lightly run the hone through each bore a few strokes. You can see every high and low spot in the cylinder and how it's worn. The aluminum blocks are much worse than iron as far as the bores moving but they still usually clean up pretty fast.
#10
Thanks for the info guys, this is a lot of help. So Im assuming that I can just get stock size pistons, hone the cylinders and then get a set of file to fit rings to make up for the increased cylinder diameter and be good to go? Sorry for the dumb questions.