bulletLS1

well... after a few days of driving the monster, I noticed very worried about the high oil temp, from a autometer oil temp gauge (electric) (duhhh)
here are the engine rebuild generals.
is a 98 camaro (acurate (???) water temp.)
ls6 block.
ported polished radiused oil pump
shimmed spring for O/P
deburred and rounded (as possible) edges inside oil passages in block.
ls6 coated stock pistons.
stock rods @ stock clearance .002
tightened mains (block came stock loose) to .0015
stock crank, polished.
stock (came with block) cam bearings
lunati cam (very early ls1 cut, 219-227-116lsa)
CNC stage II heads periferic bolts. (again very early ls1 designs)
head gasket of secon gen ls1 (OOPPPS!) no water leak.

present oil and presures

65-75 psi cold @ 1000rpm
65 psi 160F @ 1000rpm
65 psi 200
50 psi 220 @1000 100C water
35 psi 250 @1000 +100C water

wix oil filter
motul 4100 10W-40
using only water, (no coolant)

ambient temp around 25deg C
humidity 80-95%
5000´ over MSL
The thing is that driving easy around town in trafic the temp rises very quickly to 220F and a couple of hard trafic light 240-250.
did not lapped the car in a track day (low mileage yet)

Im seriusly doubting the instrument, also setting apart some money for the oil cooler (i did not wanted to put oil cooler )

opinions are greatly wellcome

BLKWS.6

Coolant temps as a rule are 100* or so below oil temps as I recall, or is it 200*? Either way, your oil is way hotter than your coolant and 240-250* is normal for oil, if not a bit cool. THe vaport point for most oils is 380-420* and so you are VERY MUCH ok. Now if you mean your temp for coolant is 240-250....whats your oil temp??

TS6

iTrader: (41)

That can't be right. Oil temps are supposed to be lower than coolant temps. and the moisture boils out of oil at a much lower temp than 380 degrees. I wanna say like 220 or somthing, but I can't remember.

NEVRLIFT

You are right, ususally oil temp for LS1's is about 200-220 IIRC. On a road course you will probably 240 to even 300 but that's pushing it.

bulletLS1

as I recall the oil temp is HIGHER than of water coolant, (but not for much!) and I used to have a ferrari (348) and recomended that "do not push the engine(?) if oil tem is 180 or lower" go figure!

sorry for the denomination mixup but my Instrument/p is canadian (metric) hence the water in celcius, oil p in mpascals (yuck) and my oil temp in *F (because is a autometer)

I mean temp fro OIL@ 240 250*F

it is true that the flashpoint of oils is 380-420*F but that in its purest forms, the ADDITIVES start to break down at around 300-320*F, sintetycs is much higer because the do not use as much viscosity modifiers as regular mineral stocks.

cantdrv65

iTrader: (3)

My oil temp on my Z06 is always slightly hotter when warmed up at operating temps. At 210F coolant temp my oil temp is usually around 230F...

smask04C5

iTrader: (1)

Oil begins to coke at 320*, synthetics slightly higher. Typical oil temps should not exceed 240* with proper setup.

Uthinkso

Oil temps will most always be higher than water temps but not by much.

For example an engine operating at 190-200* water temp would see 225-235* oil temp. That is about the max you should see out of a street car unless in the extreme heat or really beating on it.

bulletLS1

STILL WORRIED:
where this heat come from?
is the tight bearings? .0015 (the new specs even show .001!)
is the oil pump beyond eficiency, and the pumping loses represent turbulence and heat?
coul de the tight fitting pistons (ls6 block, ls6 pistons), apparently last gen pistons as they are coated w/teflon at the sides, I bought them used w/rods, they came almost perfect, no scratches, well packed, and the rings where practically new.
wrong head gasket (2 gen LS1) installed in a periferic bolt heads, besides it will show as high WATER temp.

definetelly will use a oil rad, BUT NEED TO KNOW WHERE THIS HEAT CAME FROM

THANKS!!!! for your coments

LostCauseZ06

iTrader: (4)

with my new 408 build in the Z06 i constantly see 220-230 oil temps and 200-215 coolant temps... ALWAYS...

bulletLS1

yesterday rained cats and dogs in my city, sooooooo, I took the car all day and driving in heavy trafic, some trafic light busted, a lot of uphill slow but steady... , and the dam oil temp stayed 210-230, on only one ocasion I saw 240 (whe it stoped raining)
I guess the splashing in the oil pan made it.....
it is time for an oil rad.... :-(

SUTTERERMAN85

iTrader: (42)

my oil temp runs right at 210 all the time. i am getting an oil cooler soon though.

dailydriver

Did the builder tell you to run 10W-40 in it?? If it was built real tight, that might be too thick (I did not look up the operating temp cst on the 4100). In any case, maybe try the 300V (if you want to stick with Motul), it has more good soluble moly and is more geared towards racing/high heat apps. Yes, I would also put in a good oil cooler ASAP, especially considering where you live!!

bulletLS1

thanks, the builder was ME! I had better results with this oil than say quaquer or GTX
Ill try the 300V
definetelly a cooler is on its way!!!!
actually the block new came loose, i dont remember how loose with std berings (race bearings) but the shop milled the caps to my specs (.0015) since oem specs for new was .001-.0025 I´d didnt think "too tight" until the average engines are much looser...

I know the new pistons fit tighter, the bearings are also tighter I wanted to keep that line, so i can use a thinner oil al the engine lasted longer than first time (+-70K Km.)
Mi city is average colder than miami in summer. 24*-28*C

TRANS2002

I added a sandwich oil.filter adapter with 10an fittings and thermostat built in that operation st 180 open and 170 closed with a 16 row stack Cooler with a 250 cfm fan , on a 2002 trans am .oil temp GUAGE is Intellitronix digital reader my oil runs at running on high way 60-70 mph 220-230 pressure 50 , coolant temp 195
local drive oil temperature 230 coolant 180 oil pressure 39 I don’t understand I was hoping to drop the oil temperature down to 190 or so but it’s not happening what did I do wrong or it’s just fine please advise temp sensor is at the out put side of oil cooler Should I move to pan low level sensor port
For the oil temperature sensor or leave it

Old Buzzard

where this heat come from?
is the tight bearings? .0015 (the new specs even show .001!)
Those tight spec applications don't use 40wt oil, either.

RB04Av

In older motors, the single greatest source of oil temp, was the rockers. The ball seat arrangement got the metal so hot is usually turned blue and accumulated abuncha coked-up burnt oil ash crud on it.

Next was the top of the heads inside the VCs. The exhaust ports get INCREDIBLY hot; and a great deal of that heat could find its way to oil lurking up there.

Next greatest heat source was flat-tappet lifters.

In these engines things #1 & #3 are eliminated. #2 is helped out by way of water jacket design. Main remaining heat sources are the bearings, and combustion heat on the bottom of the pistons.

First thing I'd suggest is, use a more sensible oil viscosity. 5W-30 or thinner. Keep in mind, bearings aren't kept alive by "pressure"; what makes them survive, is FLOW. Thick oil, just so you can see a high reading on the gauge, is often not appropriate at all. See what effect that has and go from there.

HappySalesman

iTrader: (3)

Here to agree with the above. A lower viscosity oil is my guess.

TRANS2002

Thank everyone that responded to my comment
I was just curious why after all the improvements I made a upgrade 4 years ago on my 2002 trans am on my automatic transmission system adding a (40k transmission cooler ) and made a huge improvement in temperature it’s running 140F from 190F
on my oil I never knew the oil temperature until I installed a oil temperature GUAGE 9 months ago it was a Chinese GUAGE with a oil filter sandwich with (2) 10an oil cooler ports and 2 1/8 ports
3 weeks ago temperature average 175 F
I replaced the GUAGE and sensor with a Intellitronix GUAGE to match all my other GUAGE s and my temperature changed dramatically upward average 228 , so I reinstalled the cheap GUAGE and that was now 190 F wow why did it change my temperature with in 10 minutes all I did was swap GUAGE
so i added a oil cooler looking for the improvement in my temperature i never had any improvement
my oil has always been Mobil oil full synthetic 5w 30W and kN oil filter from day one..why is the oil cooler not improving my temperature pressure has never changed in 22 years 55 psi hwy 33 idle can anyone please make any kind of suggestions

TRANS2002

Thank everybody for replying one important factor I forgot to mention. I do change the oil and filter every 3500 miles a very expensive deal when you use synthetics but I just believe that a clean engine is a better engine. Could I be doing it too often which may be causing this problem but again I never will know the answer because I never had a oil temperature gauge on it until this last year, so I can never say the engine always hot oil from day one
this engine has never had any abnormal noises and oil pressure drops and coolant excessive. It’s always been running like it was from day. One starts up on a quarter crank
I should also add it has an electric water pump, which is about three years into the system, once fine, great circulation, and the cool temperature has always been 185-190 before the fans come on. I’m just trying to give as much information as possible to the team out there again maybe the engine was always running with his well temperature I don’t know, but I do believe in my opinion and 30 years of turning wrench it just troubles me that the oil is getting that high thank you again for your time and your assistance. It’s well appreciated.