Which LSx series is iron??
Yep yep i'm looking at a LT1 rebuild in a year but in foresight i'm thinkin a swap instead. It's time to step on up to the latest.
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A last question and if you don't know it's not that important, can I with a different bellhousing (I imagine at minimum) bolt on my T56 to the appropriate bellhousing? or are the newer bellhousings matched only to what could be a newer casting or boltup pattern on later T56's? rendering my older t56 completely useless.
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The aluminium block has been proven at well over 1000rwhp, how much power are they planning on running?
I see a lot more Alum blocks with holes in them then I do the Iron ones. Care to explain...
I see a lot more Alum blocks with holes in them then I do the Iron ones. Care to explain...
BTW - I'm not actively disagreeing I'm just want to see if this "opinion" is based on something more substantial than outdated heresay.
Also race/drag, vehicles which run a Gen 3 SBC, i.e. LS1 are more likely to be Corvettes and Fbody's. I know there are lots of trucks out there with LQ's but seriously how many are used as a performance vehicle?
So following this logic how many 98-02 Fbody's and 97-04 Corvettes run a cast iron block from the factory?
Well noone is the answer, so logically speaking the ratio of aluminium engined cars compared to cast iron engined cars is much greater. So you should see more failures from aluminium engined cars.
Example:
Lets for arguments sake say that 1 in 10 aluminum engines fail and that 1 in every 10 cast iron engines fail also.
However there are 4 times the number of aluminium engines compared to cast iron.
This would mean you should see FOUR times the number of failures from aluminium engines. However it would have nothing to do with the material itself just the popularity.
As I say I'm not disagreeing it with you just trying to look at the bigger picture. Also there are many many many people making quite extreme levels of HP perfectly safley (as far as the blocks concerned) with aluminium blocks.
Your also putting aside the old school type rebuild which can sometimes be pulled off by joe average in his backyard without requireing new sleeves.
Although it may seem like the aluminum stuff is gods gift to us chevy buffs, sometimes things aren't what the general popularity says it is. I'm sure the 1000hp guys spent a lot of time, massaging and balancing, and blueprinting and tweaking internals, sonic testing, chamfering, deburring, and yada yada yada, my pockets don't run that deep.
I need the sureshot, and with minimal hassle, I can drop in a forged crank+pistons, balance the assembly and feel fairly confident that with the right tune she'll survive some heavy N20 doses with most to all other parts close to stock and no rigging the oil system or testing for hot spots, fancy equipment or sleeves to worry about should there be a failure.
And last but not least I like the new school stuff but I still have a lot of the old school in my blood, so keeping an open mind to the newer stuff doesn't mean I want to just follow, I thank Gm for the design improvement and I thank them twice for the available iron alternative that fits my line of preferences.
As for the weight differences, I'll take it's slight to null penalty, anytime, knowing that a hole on my piston skirt is less likely to happen to me. And I also thank the crowd that underdogs the iron block, cuz if not for them the costs would actually be higher than the aluminum, heheh, so it's a win win all around. For me that concesus works to my benefit so it tends to paint a smile on my face and I laugh cuz it's a beautiful thing when you really look at it.
Your also putting aside the old school type rebuild which can sometimes be pulled off by joe average in his backyard without requireing new sleeves.
Although it may seem like the aluminum stuff is gods gift to us chevy buffs, sometimes things aren't what the general popularity says it is. I'm sure the 1000hp guys spent a lot of time, massaging and balancing, and blueprinting and tweaking internals, sonic testing, chamfering, deburring, and yada yada yada, my pockets don't run that deep.
I need the sureshot, and with minimal hassle, I can drop in a forged crank+pistons, balance the assembly and feel fairly confident that with the right tune she'll survive some heavy N20 doses with most to all other parts close to stock and no rigging the oil system or testing for hot spots, fancy equipment or sleeves to worry about should there be a failure.
And last but not least I like the new school stuff but I still have a lot of the old school in my blood, so keeping an open mind to the newer stuff doesn't mean I want to just follow, I thank Gm for the design improvement and I thank them twice for the available iron alternative that fits my line of preferences.
As for the weight differences, I'll take it's slight to null penalty, anytime, knowing that a hole on my piston skirt is less likely to happen to me. And I also thank the crowd that underdogs the iron block, cuz if not for them the costs would actually be higher than the aluminum, heheh, so it's a win win all around. For me that concesus works to my benefit so it tends to paint a smile on my face and I laugh cuz it's a beautiful thing when you really look at it.
A last question and if you don't know it's not that important, can I with a different bellhousing (I imagine at minimum) bolt on my T56 to the appropriate bellhousing? or are the newer bellhousings matched only to what could be a newer casting or boltup pattern on later T56's? rendering my older t56 completely useless.




