In the sense of either:

1. Thunder Racing Solid Roller 346 with GTP Stage II Heads milled to 11:1 CR, 233/233 .629/.629 112 LSA Cam, Forged Rods, Forged Pistons, Bearings, and a 100 shot

2. Fikse FM5's, 12 bolt, mild H/C

Car is a street racing only car with rare trips to the track, would you go for looks or all out power

Car has chrome ZR1's on it now

 

The second choice will probably make you most happy for now. A little bit of looks, a little safety, and a little more power. Option one will soon cause the car to go down due to needing a 12 bolt. But then again you don't run at the track so hooking up too good shouldn't be a concern. I've been all about the power first, then the looks to compliment. Would rather have the sleeper effect than all bark and no bite.

 

If it's mainly a street racer then I would go with #1 but as mentioned above you may need a 12 bolt at some point with that. The stock look would help out plus you can't tell it's a heads/cam solid roller by popping the hood. If you like to cruise around...pick up girls..maybe an occasional car show then go with #2. More then enough power to kill most cars out there and you'll love the compliments you get on your ride.

 

ttt, what would be a monstorous BIG HP cam for a solid roller?

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by NOS powered LS1:
<strong> In the sense of either:

1. Thunder Racing Solid Roller 346 with GTP Stage II Heads milled to 11:1 CR, 233/233 .629/.629 112 LSA Cam, Forged Rods, Forged Pistons, Bearings, and a 100 shot

2. Fikse FM5's, 12 bolt, mild H/C

Car is a street racing only car with rare trips to the track, would you go for looks or all out power

Car has chrome ZR1's on it now </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Comments on option 1

If you going to build a motor for spray, I would go for the 250 shot and a nitrous cam.

Comments on option 2

The Fikse look nice but I would spend the $$$ on go fast mod's first, like a 12-bolt or etc.

Of course this is coming from someone with the ugly stock T/A rims on his car.

 

I'd get the 12 bolt, your gona need it eventually. Then hyd. heads and cam, and if you have any left get a 100 shot.

 

Definitely go with #2. All that power with the fancy heads/cam and nitrous will just bust the stock rearend anyways. What good is all the power if you can't keep the car in one piece? I learned that the hard way, I busted 4 stock rearends. Heads/cam/nitrous killed three of those rearends, my 382ci NA killed the last one.

A good 12-bolt can also be considered an important safety item with a higher HP car. When I busted one rearend at over 100 mph when I shifted into 4th gear at the track, it took a LOT of driving in a panic to keep it off of the wall.

-Tony

 

Nineball, could I go with #1 and then do a 12 bolt down the road, because I really would love to be the top dog around here, another guy is building up a 97 Cobra with supposedly 611 RWHP

 

Ever seen a top-dog without any feet? If you can't hook the power, and do it reliably, the car won't be any fun. How much did I spend from broken 10-bolts?

1. Towing $120, new gear/pinion $250, labor $200, rental car for 2 days $175

2. Towing $80, new gear/pinion $250, labor $200, new differential $250, rental car 3 days, $250

3. Towing $100, new gear/pinion $250, labor $200, new torsen differential $99 from SLP, rental car $200

4. Towing $120, new gear pinion $250, labor $200, rental car $400. The fourth one locked up at 100 mph, causing my tranny to grenade inside. I had to get the tranny rebuilt too $800.

Total wasted because of 10-bolt rearends = $4,074 <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />

If I were to start all over again, a 12-bolt would be one of the very first mods I'd do to these cars. Maybe even before an airbox lid!

-Tony

 

Nineball, would it make any difference if the car is a street racing car on street tires?

 

Instead of the rims get the rearend. It will break in time. If you race only on street tires, you will likely never be able to use the extra power you are talking about.......if you put on Drag Radials then you are just waiting for the rear to grenade. Get a 12-bolt or 9" rearend first. I would love to drop $2500 into heads and a cam when I sell my truck, (make that if I ever get done with the damn truck <img border="0" alt="[bang head]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_banghead.gif" /> ),but I know that a built rearend and a killer clutch are a much wiser choice.....short term and long term. <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

 

IMHO for a street car on street tires (even nittos) a solid roller with spray will be useless. My money would be on the mild H/C car handing you your A$$ unless you are going from like a 60 MPH roll every time.

EDIT: BTW there is a guy in my neck of the woods with a 97 cobra putting around 600 to the ground (forged/Vortech). On street tires the car is usless until fourth gear (But it does run 10s at the track <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> ).

 

In my opinion, its better to have a little bit of everything, instead of alot of just one thing. This applies to alot more than cars.

If I only had a limited mod budget, I personally would like to have a decent lookind and decent handling car, that has decent power, rather than an ugly car that cant handle for ****, but has a lot of power.

Not that any F-body would look like ****, but you know my opinion. Of course, its always fun to do all the power mods first! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

 

It takes ~ 2 weeks to get a Moser 12-bolt. It takes a couple months to get a motor.

Order the 12-bolt now (and clutch and driveshaft), the motor now, get the 12-bolt in, and by spring you'll be ready for the motor. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

-Andrew <img border="0" alt="[evil]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_devil.gif" />