Best cam for A4/Stock Converter
#1
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Best cam for A4/Stock Converter
Well, the time has come to modify another FBody. This one is a budget daily driver (2001 WS6 Salvage) and I don't want to spend much money on it. I'm trying to pick a cam that will work well with 3.23s/stock torque converter, yet still pick up 30rwhp on the top end. I'm leaning towards a simple LS6 cam. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
T
Thanks,
T
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Something with a high LSA that can idle around 500 rpm so you are not standing on the breaks and killing your legs to keep it stopped.. Honestly aftermarket cams and stock converters should not go in the same sentence.
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I like the way that the CompCams 206/212 cam lowered the engine's powerband to better match the stock TC. Cam alone gained 3 mph in the 1/8, but netted only a 1 mph gain in the 1/4 traps. I then added 1.85 rockers and got 3 mph gains at the 1/8 and 1/4 mi traps. It is a 112 LSA with 2 degrees advance ground in. I retarded the cam 2 degrees when I installed it.
I recently switched back to the stock TC after running a TCI3500. I like the way this cam feels with the stock TC. Very torquey off-idle and it does help minimize the "dead spot" acceleration. I am running 3.42 gears. I would run 12.5s with high 1.8 60 fts with the stock TC. IIRC the 1/8 mi would be 8.0@89. With 3.23s, it should still be pretty good combo.
edit: The cam also works pretty good with stock manifolds too. I haven't gotten around to install my headers yet. All of the times I mention & in my sig are using the stock manifolds.
I recently switched back to the stock TC after running a TCI3500. I like the way this cam feels with the stock TC. Very torquey off-idle and it does help minimize the "dead spot" acceleration. I am running 3.42 gears. I would run 12.5s with high 1.8 60 fts with the stock TC. IIRC the 1/8 mi would be 8.0@89. With 3.23s, it should still be pretty good combo.
edit: The cam also works pretty good with stock manifolds too. I haven't gotten around to install my headers yet. All of the times I mention & in my sig are using the stock manifolds.
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Predator Z has a pretty good cam he recommended to me before, 372rwhp/386rwtq, peak at 5900rpm, shift at 6100rpm, 300 rwtrq by 2500rpm on his a4 'vette w/ stock converter, CAI, ported throttle body.
210/224, .555/.568 115+1 LSA
Comp XE Lobe: 210/224 115LSA 114ICL
Lobe design# intake: 3708
Lobe design# exhaust: 3715
115LSA
114ICL
210/224, .555/.568 115+1 LSA
Comp XE Lobe: 210/224 115LSA 114ICL
Lobe design# intake: 3708
Lobe design# exhaust: 3715
115LSA
114ICL
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By the way, I was determined to go down this road before, but everyone here screamed at me to ditch the stock converter.
It has finally sunk in.
I'm going to be getting a yank ss3200 2.1 STR. From what I've heard this one is very drivable and hardly a difference from stock at cruise, doesn't require 2000rpms or anything crazy like that to keep moving. I'm sure you could get a similar one from yank for your f-bod.
Do the research. It's hard to go fast with the stock converter. That's what pushed me over the edge and caused me to give in. Besides, unless you're willing to do the work yourself, converter swap should be cheaper than a cam swap. Plus later you will have a wider selection of cam choices.
It has finally sunk in.
I'm going to be getting a yank ss3200 2.1 STR. From what I've heard this one is very drivable and hardly a difference from stock at cruise, doesn't require 2000rpms or anything crazy like that to keep moving. I'm sure you could get a similar one from yank for your f-bod.
Do the research. It's hard to go fast with the stock converter. That's what pushed me over the edge and caused me to give in. Besides, unless you're willing to do the work yourself, converter swap should be cheaper than a cam swap. Plus later you will have a wider selection of cam choices.
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You need a converter to go fast. This is just more of a budget project, so I don't want to spend the money or bother with the install. =)
I want to pickup around .3-.4ths and 3-4mph with whatever cam I do...
T
I want to pickup around .3-.4ths and 3-4mph with whatever cam I do...
T
Originally Posted by will82
By the way, I was determined to go down this road before, but everyone here screamed at me to ditch the stock converter.
It has finally sunk in.
I'm going to be getting a yank ss3200 2.1 STR. From what I've heard this one is very drivable and hardly a difference from stock at cruise, doesn't require 2000rpms or anything crazy like that to keep moving. I'm sure you could get a similar one from yank for your f-bod.
Do the research. It's hard to go fast with the stock converter. That's what pushed me over the edge and caused me to give in. Besides, unless you're willing to do the work yourself, converter swap should be cheaper than a cam swap. Plus later you will have a wider selection of cam choices.
It has finally sunk in.
I'm going to be getting a yank ss3200 2.1 STR. From what I've heard this one is very drivable and hardly a difference from stock at cruise, doesn't require 2000rpms or anything crazy like that to keep moving. I'm sure you could get a similar one from yank for your f-bod.
Do the research. It's hard to go fast with the stock converter. That's what pushed me over the edge and caused me to give in. Besides, unless you're willing to do the work yourself, converter swap should be cheaper than a cam swap. Plus later you will have a wider selection of cam choices.
#12
Get The TR 224/224 114 LSA .563 .563 Lift w/ comp 918 springs, ti retainers and stock length hardened pushrods.. it will cost around 800 dollars with the cam gaskets from there.. then get it tuned and open the rev limit to 6600rpm.
u can use the stock converter
u can use the stock converter
#14
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Basicaly you need a cam that will not pull on the brakes because you had to raise idle speed.
LS6
My cam mentionned above
GT2-3
CheatTR cam
etc....
in all a cam with very low overlap that can idle at 600 rpm.
LS6
My cam mentionned above
GT2-3
CheatTR cam
etc....
in all a cam with very low overlap that can idle at 600 rpm.
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I'm actually OK with the idle speed @ say 800 ish / stock converter. I'm more worried about keeping close to stock power @ 1100ish-1700ish RPM, as I spend a lot of time in this range.
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Originally Posted by Public Enemy
Get The TR 224/224 114 LSA .563 .563 Lift w/ comp 918 springs, ti retainers and stock length hardened pushrods.. it will cost around 800 dollars with the cam gaskets from there.. then get it tuned and open the rev limit to 6600rpm.
u can use the stock converter
u can use the stock converter