TSP 220/220 114lsa?
TSP 220/220 114lsa? Considering Swapping this cam into my stock LS1 platform. I'm looking at TSP's cam package with the harder pushrods and 918's. I may be changing my lifters and figured - If i'm down there pulling them out. A cam would be worth the extra work.
I've searched and searched. My question is, would I regret putting this cam in? I don't want anything too serious. It's my DD. I don't drag race much. I'd want to after the cam install just to see what it runs but I'm not a dragoholic.
Mods are in the sig...I wonder how well this would work with stock exhaust manifolds? I've considered the CheatR cam but the High lift turns me off. I've also looked at the LPE GT2-3. But for some reason, I like the sound of 220/220 better.Would I need any different sized pushrods? or will TSP supply me with a sufficient length?
Sorry if this has already been covered. But believe me, I've spent about a week searching and acquiring knowledge. Thanks in advance!
Rick M.
I've searched and searched. My question is, would I regret putting this cam in? I don't want anything too serious. It's my DD. I don't drag race much. I'd want to after the cam install just to see what it runs but I'm not a dragoholic.
Mods are in the sig...I wonder how well this would work with stock exhaust manifolds? I've considered the CheatR cam but the High lift turns me off. I've also looked at the LPE GT2-3. But for some reason, I like the sound of 220/220 better.Would I need any different sized pushrods? or will TSP supply me with a sufficient length?
Sorry if this has already been covered. But believe me, I've spent about a week searching and acquiring knowledge. Thanks in advance!
Rick M.
The cam is tiny, you probably will barely be able to hear a difference in the idle. It will drive just like stock once you get it tuned, im sure untuned it wouldn't give you much problems either. Stock length pushrods is all you would need with that set up. So TSP should have no problem hooking you up with the correct pushrods and valve springs.
well maybe the guy doesnt want it to lope and know that its cammed. he will def see a gain overall and it will have more low end power and mid range power. it will work ok with stock manifolds also. it would be a really good DD cam but a 224 on a 114 would be fine too.
See. I notice a lot of guys have a version of the 224/224 cam. I'm just worried I'll end up loosing more drivetrain parts shortly after. If I do a cam, I won't have $2k to drop into a rear end or clutch two weeks after installation, hense my reason for staying with a slightly less aggressive setup. Although, I know 220 isn't far from 224 so maybe it's worth it. I'd also worry about spinning my motor above 6k to get the power a 224 might create, also hindering my low end torque.
You can call the cam small. But think - some guys swap their stocker out for an LS6 cam... atleast I'm a little more adventurous. From the sound of both your posts, I think the 220/220 would fit me well. Maybe if I think a little harder, a 224/224 could end up in my car. Thanks a lot for your responses so far!
Rick M.
You can call the cam small. But think - some guys swap their stocker out for an LS6 cam... atleast I'm a little more adventurous. From the sound of both your posts, I think the 220/220 would fit me well. Maybe if I think a little harder, a 224/224 could end up in my car. Thanks a lot for your responses so far!
Rick M.
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 142
Likes: 0
From: Speedway, Indiana
I had a Thunder Racing TR220 (220/220 .551/.551 114lsa) in my '04 GTO. Tuned it did not sound stock. Had a nice chop to it. Made like 360 rwhp/355 rwt. Dyno queen.....no. But it was easy on the valvetrain and the driver. Really woke the car up. Yeah the cam was 'tiny', but I surprised a lot of 'big' cam guys with that one.
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Verdad Gallardo I'm sorry, by Drivetrain I meant transmission and rear end. You know. Poeple say after a cam install, their clutch starts to give about a month or two later.
I've been shopping around for the best prices on a Z06 clutch. I figure...I don't have serious output plans for this car, so a clutch designed to hold 400hp+ some modification should do.
I've been shopping around for the best prices on a Z06 clutch. I figure...I don't have serious output plans for this car, so a clutch designed to hold 400hp+ some modification should do.
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 99
Likes: 0
From: Chesapeake, VA
That cam sounds just about right for what you are looking for. You might consider one just a tick larger so that you are not dissapointed. You will be excited for the first week but you will get used to it really quick and want more. I went with one between the one you are thinking about and a 224 and I am very glad that I did. Its perfect all around for what I wanted and doesnt stress the rest of the drivetrain that much. Also if you drop the lobe center to a 112, it will hit alittle harder. Still on the factory clutch and rear, and as long as you dont beat it alot, it will last quite awhile. I will be stepping up to the LS7 clutch soon since it has some great reviews, stock driveability, and reasonable price.
Jason ran this cam in his wife's SS with stock manifolds and cats. He picked up ~32RW with the cam and she loved it. It had a smooth idle and picked up some good power. Unfortunately, at some point the clutch is going to come apart. Granted, the power you throw at it, the quicker it's going to go. If you have any questions, feel free to give us a call or email us!
Brian
Brian
__________________
01 NBM Z28- A4 w/3.23s, TSP Black Lid, Hooker Catback, Pacesetter Headers w/ORY, ASP Pulley, Ported Throttle Body, TSP Torq. v3(231/234) Camshaft, TCI 4400, PRC Stg 1 Heads
Texas Speed & Performance
www.texas-speed.com
(806) 866-0734
01 NBM Z28- A4 w/3.23s, TSP Black Lid, Hooker Catback, Pacesetter Headers w/ORY, ASP Pulley, Ported Throttle Body, TSP Torq. v3(231/234) Camshaft, TCI 4400, PRC Stg 1 Heads
Texas Speed & Performance
www.texas-speed.com
(806) 866-0734
Awesome. Thanks a lot guys. I really appreciate your advice thus far. Really selling me on it. The only issue I'm battling right now is my car is broken and may need lifters. I say "may" because I'm not positive. I don't want to drop all sorts of cash on performance unless I know what the problem is first. So. I'm most likely going to pull my heads and replace my lifters and if something is mechanically wrong with them, and I've fixed the issue, I'll order the cam and valvetrain then wait to reassemble.
Rick M.
Rick M.
Well...
I ordered the lifters! And I ended up getting the TSP 220/220 cam package w/ the 918's and pushrods. I'm psyched! I just hope it's actually a lifter which is causing my motor problems... Anywho. once its fixed and all put back together...It'll be nasty. This will be my first cammed anything so I'm pretty excited. I've also got a few people who are going to lend me a hand so I'm hoping everything goes well. Thanks again for all your tips and info on here guys!
Rick M.
I ordered the lifters! And I ended up getting the TSP 220/220 cam package w/ the 918's and pushrods. I'm psyched! I just hope it's actually a lifter which is causing my motor problems... Anywho. once its fixed and all put back together...It'll be nasty. This will be my first cammed anything so I'm pretty excited. I've also got a few people who are going to lend me a hand so I'm hoping everything goes well. Thanks again for all your tips and info on here guys!
Rick M.
TECH Resident
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 907
Likes: 1
From: NJ
That was my first cam. Its definitely a sleeper cam. But you need good flowing heads too.
Go with my cam,its still 100% DD streetable otherwise i wouldnt have it. I like the almost stock behavior of this cam.
Go with my cam,its still 100% DD streetable otherwise i wouldnt have it. I like the almost stock behavior of this cam.
Originally Posted by Camaro Rick
See. I notice a lot of guys have a version of the 224/224 cam. I'm just worried I'll end up loosing more drivetrain parts shortly after. If I do a cam, I won't have $2k to drop into a rear end or clutch two weeks after installation, hense my reason for staying with a slightly less aggressive setup. Although, I know 220 isn't far from 224 so maybe it's worth it. I'd also worry about spinning my motor above 6k to get the power a 224 might create, also hindering my low end torque.
You can call the cam small. But think - some guys swap their stocker out for an LS6 cam... atleast I'm a little more adventurous. From the sound of both your posts, I think the 220/220 would fit me well. Maybe if I think a little harder, a 224/224 could end up in my car. Thanks a lot for your responses so far!
Rick M.
You can call the cam small. But think - some guys swap their stocker out for an LS6 cam... atleast I'm a little more adventurous. From the sound of both your posts, I think the 220/220 would fit me well. Maybe if I think a little harder, a 224/224 could end up in my car. Thanks a lot for your responses so far!
Rick M.
edit... opps.. too late!~
Well. I already ordered it... So. If I get sick of it...I'll swap it out once I've got the bullet-proof drivetrain I desire so badly. Plus. The car's stupid fast anywho. I love the performance of these cars. But we all have to remember. We are serious weapons out there. So I appreciate your suggestions. But It's too late for this particular cam swap.
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Placerville, CA
I have a 220/220, .568/.568 114+2 LSA (a little more lift) cam with LS6 heads on an '02 mn6 Corvette LS1. It idles a little rougher than bone stock barely noticable. Dyno'ed at 378 rwhp on a Dynajet. Live in Calif. so I had a test smog afterwards the guy doing the test actually said he couldn't believe how "clean" this car ran. Of course with this cam we upgraded the push rods & springs. Great gas mileage, stock driveability, and better low/mid end torque.
As far as your clutch, I suppose more torque is more stress... when racing if it isn't a healthy camper adding 70 hp isn't going to be the straw that breaks the camel's back. If your clutch is tired you may be looking at $700 labor and $350 for a LS7 clutch... or what ever clutch floats your boat. The drive line will be fine unless your planning on a number of launches north of 4000 rpm. I really don't think you need to address driveline upgrades as long as you stay below 420 rwhp in your mods.
Wish I had 599 rwhp, but basically I'm happy with the setup. lol
As far as your clutch, I suppose more torque is more stress... when racing if it isn't a healthy camper adding 70 hp isn't going to be the straw that breaks the camel's back. If your clutch is tired you may be looking at $700 labor and $350 for a LS7 clutch... or what ever clutch floats your boat. The drive line will be fine unless your planning on a number of launches north of 4000 rpm. I really don't think you need to address driveline upgrades as long as you stay below 420 rwhp in your mods.
Wish I had 599 rwhp, but basically I'm happy with the setup. lol
Gotcha.
I'm pretty psyched about it. I pulled my heads yesterday and reveiled a peice of metal in one of my cylinders so..Fortunately there was very minimal damage to the piston and head. Hopefully going to be picking up my reworked 241's tomorrow or the next day so I can reassemble...Slid the 220/220 in tonight before it started raining and once it was in I started to get the gigglies. I'm hoping the rebuild goes well. I can't wait to see how she acts with the cam, although it's mild...I'll flip over it! Thanks for your input by the way! I really appreciate it!
Rick M.
I'm pretty psyched about it. I pulled my heads yesterday and reveiled a peice of metal in one of my cylinders so..Fortunately there was very minimal damage to the piston and head. Hopefully going to be picking up my reworked 241's tomorrow or the next day so I can reassemble...Slid the 220/220 in tonight before it started raining and once it was in I started to get the gigglies. I'm hoping the rebuild goes well. I can't wait to see how she acts with the cam, although it's mild...I'll flip over it! Thanks for your input by the way! I really appreciate it!
Rick M.
