Motor Problems? My H/C 01 Z06 only dynoed 390/380?
10-19-2006, 07:04 AM
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Motor Problems? My H/C 01 Z06 only dynoed 390/380? I picked this car up about three weeks ago from New Mexico, and was excited to get the car retuned here in Nashville, TN to see what it would do.
The results are depressing, and I'm too new to the GM world to understand the possible problems it could have....
The car dynoed 390/380 and was running out of fuel with a 99% IDC. (stock 28# injectors) The car does have the Racetronix Fuel Pump Grade with Wiring Harness...
Did a compression test yesterday, and car showed 190 in 6/8 cylinders, and 185 in the other 2. Spark Plugs looked fine.
Mods are as follows:
WCCH Stage II LS6 Heads (Milled an additional 15 thousandths over the spec figures below)
http://www.proheads.com/files/LS6FlowData.htm
Ed Curtis Flowtech 228/228 588/571 112 LSA Cam
Rev Valves (2.02/1.57)
PRC Double Valve Springs
2 piece timming cover--nasty performance
LS2 timing chain
ARP Head Studs
Comp Cams 850 Lifters
retainers--TSP performance (Ti)
Shanner Ported TB
Hurricane intake (carbon fiber)
Dynatech Long Tube headers and Dynatech Hi-Flow X pipe
Borla Stingers Exhaust
I'm stumped, as the previous owner dynoed 410whp up in a much higher elevation on 91 octane...
When we got the car down to Nashville, the old tune had 30 degrees of timing in it and it was showing slight knock in the HP Tuners...
We backed timing off 5 degrees, all knock went away, and we picked up 10whp..
Some of the local guys are saying the compression is too low, and I need to have the heads milled further..Others say I could just compensate by installing a more appropriate cam for those heads.
Any suggestions? This is way beyond my league of knowledge..
The results are depressing, and I'm too new to the GM world to understand the possible problems it could have....
The car dynoed 390/380 and was running out of fuel with a 99% IDC. (stock 28# injectors) The car does have the Racetronix Fuel Pump Grade with Wiring Harness...
Did a compression test yesterday, and car showed 190 in 6/8 cylinders, and 185 in the other 2. Spark Plugs looked fine.
Mods are as follows:
WCCH Stage II LS6 Heads (Milled an additional 15 thousandths over the spec figures below)
http://www.proheads.com/files/LS6FlowData.htm
Ed Curtis Flowtech 228/228 588/571 112 LSA Cam
Rev Valves (2.02/1.57)
PRC Double Valve Springs
2 piece timming cover--nasty performance
LS2 timing chain
ARP Head Studs
Comp Cams 850 Lifters
retainers--TSP performance (Ti)
Shanner Ported TB
Hurricane intake (carbon fiber)
Dynatech Long Tube headers and Dynatech Hi-Flow X pipe
Borla Stingers Exhaust
I'm stumped, as the previous owner dynoed 410whp up in a much higher elevation on 91 octane...
When we got the car down to Nashville, the old tune had 30 degrees of timing in it and it was showing slight knock in the HP Tuners...
We backed timing off 5 degrees, all knock went away, and we picked up 10whp..
Some of the local guys are saying the compression is too low, and I need to have the heads milled further..Others say I could just compensate by installing a more appropriate cam for those heads.
Any suggestions? This is way beyond my league of knowledge..
Last edited by riggs; 10-19-2006 at 12:53 PM.
10-19-2006, 07:16 AM
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was that on a dynojet or mustang dyno ? also where exactly did you go to get it done ? when i get my car up and running again i want to take it to a close by dyno to see what it puts down ? that idc seems very high for your hp level,did you check the fuel pressure to make sure it was still up to par ?
10-19-2006, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by slow trap
was that on a dynojet or mustang dyno ? also where exactly did you go to get it done ? when i get my car up and running again i want to take it to a close by dyno to see what it puts down ? that idc seems very high for your hp level,did you check the fuel pressure to make sure it was still up to par ?
I ordered a new Fuel Filter today, since the previous owner never changed it. (57,000 miles on the car.) Also ordered MSD 8.5 Plug Wires just for the heck of it...
Car was dynoed and tuned at Extreme Automotive (Josh Elam) in Memphis, TN. They have a DynoJet....and work/tune on lots of LSx setups...
10-19-2006, 11:26 AM
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Injectors could be getting pushed to the limit, but I wouldn't think they would dyno lower because of it. Is the intake and throttle body stock? Could be the combo isn't perfect. Could be just the difference in the dynos, maybe the nicer air is throwing the A/F off. Just throwin ideas out.
10-19-2006, 11:31 AM
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20 whp between two dynos isn't bad. Did the previous owner ever run it at the track? having a baseline strip time to compare to would be a good idea. A magazine once tested 10 or so different dynos at different shops and came up with an extreme of 70whp between the lowest and highest dyno.
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10-19-2006, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by riggs
Any ideas, suggestions, comments?
10-19-2006, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by WS6RED2002TA
What gear do you have? Also you could check and make sure the TB is opening completely, good luck in finding the missing HP.
10-19-2006, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Blue Meanie
Injectors could be getting pushed to the limit, but I wouldn't think they would dyno lower because of it. Is the intake and throttle body stock? Could be the combo isn't perfect. Could be just the difference in the dynos, maybe the nicer air is throwing the A/F off. Just throwin ideas out.
10-19-2006, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by BrandonDrecksage
20 whp between two dynos isn't bad. Did the previous owner ever run it at the track? having a baseline strip time to compare to would be a good idea. A magazine once tested 10 or so different dynos at different shops and came up with an extreme of 70whp between the lowest and highest dyno.
10-19-2006, 12:53 PM
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Something isnt right there my buddy has a 224/224 600/600 caam in a stalled a4 car with stock ls1 heads and he put down 39x rwhp 38x rwtq your compression is plenty high. Shouldny a Z-06 put down almost 400 to the wheels with full boltons? what kind of headers if any are you running?
10-19-2006, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by eamador11
Stock injectors need to be bumped up to 30lbs, so you can add more fuel to the mix without overworking the injectors. then you can re-adjust timing accordingly as well.
Who has the best deal on injectors for our motors? Like I said, I'm brand new into this game...
I plan on probably upgrading the cam, as I'd like to get into the 450whp range on motor....
550-600whp on spray...(I have an NX EFI Wet Kit on the car right now.)
10-19-2006, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by HottLS1Z
Something isnt right there my buddy has a 224/224 600/600 caam in a stalled a4 car with stock ls1 heads and he put down 39x rwhp 38x rwtq your compression is plenty high. Shouldny a Z-06 put down almost 400 to the wheels with full boltons? what kind of headers if any are you running?
I have Dynatech Full Length Headers with Dynatech Hi Flow Catted X-pipe.
10-19-2006, 01:29 PM
#17
Originally Posted by riggs
only 30's from 28's? How about 42lbs?
Who has the best deal on injectors for our motors? Like I said, I'm brand new into this game...
I plan on probably upgrading the cam, as I'd like to get into the 450whp range on motor....
550-600whp on spray...(I have an NX EFI Wet Kit on the car right now.)
Who has the best deal on injectors for our motors? Like I said, I'm brand new into this game...
I plan on probably upgrading the cam, as I'd like to get into the 450whp range on motor....
550-600whp on spray...(I have an NX EFI Wet Kit on the car right now.)
since you have juice, id consult with a tuner shop to confirm if 30lbs is enough.
if your swapping cams, get a cam thats optimal for spray.
10-19-2006, 03:55 PM
#19
If you guys listen to anything I say EVER, please listen to this.
STOP TALKING ABOUT NITROUS CAMS.
IT IS PROVEN, every cam works fine up to a 150 shot in the LS1. A T Rex works great, a TR 230/224 112 works great, a traditional split cam works great, stock cam, little baby cam's, blower cam's, every thing works fine in the LS1's as long as your not spraying a ton of juice.
So DON'T BUY A NITROUS CAM, buy a cam that is going to make good power NA and then spray it. And I don't think the cam is the problem anyways.
Where the problem is???????????????????????
Could be a number of things.
STOP TALKING ABOUT NITROUS CAMS.
IT IS PROVEN, every cam works fine up to a 150 shot in the LS1. A T Rex works great, a TR 230/224 112 works great, a traditional split cam works great, stock cam, little baby cam's, blower cam's, every thing works fine in the LS1's as long as your not spraying a ton of juice.
So DON'T BUY A NITROUS CAM, buy a cam that is going to make good power NA and then spray it. And I don't think the cam is the problem anyways.
Where the problem is???????????????????????
Could be a number of things.
10-19-2006, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by JZ'sTA
If you guys listen to anything I say EVER, please listen to this.
STOP TALKING ABOUT NITROUS CAMS.
IT IS PROVEN, every cam works fine up to a 150 shot in the LS1. A T Rex works great, a TR 230/224 112 works great, a traditional split cam works great, stock cam, little baby cam's, blower cam's, every thing works fine in the LS1's as long as your not spraying a ton of juice.
So DON'T BUY A NITROUS CAM, buy a cam that is going to make good power NA and then spray it. And I don't think the cam is the problem anyways.
Where the problem is???????????????????????
Could be a number of things.
STOP TALKING ABOUT NITROUS CAMS.
IT IS PROVEN, every cam works fine up to a 150 shot in the LS1. A T Rex works great, a TR 230/224 112 works great, a traditional split cam works great, stock cam, little baby cam's, blower cam's, every thing works fine in the LS1's as long as your not spraying a ton of juice.
So DON'T BUY A NITROUS CAM, buy a cam that is going to make good power NA and then spray it. And I don't think the cam is the problem anyways.
Where the problem is???????????????????????
Could be a number of things.