Could we make a list of all the cheap mods?
#1
Launching!
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The ones for under $250 I'd say would be good...I'm in college now and it's tough! Also, tell me what you think about g-tech...I've been thinking about one.
#2
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Intake Lid - $109-150 (depending on which one)
Fast Toys Ram Air - $165
Rear End Gears - $200 (don't forget about the installation though)
Hypertech Power Programmer - $350 (you can find them used for about $200)
SLP Loudmouth Cat-Back - At $350 it's one of the cheapest cat-backs out there.
Free Mods: Porting Throttle Body, Porting MAF,
Cutting EGR, Gutting Cats... etc.
Thats all I can think of off the top of my head...
As for the GTECH... my belief is a dyno pull is $40 + Night at the track for $15... You can do that two and a half times for the price of a GTECH. It's a lot safer, accurate and a lot of fun.
Fast Toys Ram Air - $165
Rear End Gears - $200 (don't forget about the installation though)
Hypertech Power Programmer - $350 (you can find them used for about $200)
SLP Loudmouth Cat-Back - At $350 it's one of the cheapest cat-backs out there.
Free Mods: Porting Throttle Body, Porting MAF,
Cutting EGR, Gutting Cats... etc.
Thats all I can think of off the top of my head...
As for the GTECH... my belief is a dyno pull is $40 + Night at the track for $15... You can do that two and a half times for the price of a GTECH. It's a lot safer, accurate and a lot of fun.
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Cutout = $40
Lid and K&N = $150
Subrame Connectors = $190
Shifter = $150-$190
Mac ORP = $200
Embarrising almost any Ricer or Mustang = Priceless
There are some cars you can't make Fast....For everything else there's MuscleCars.
Lid and K&N = $150
Subrame Connectors = $190
Shifter = $150-$190
Mac ORP = $200
Embarrising almost any Ricer or Mustang = Priceless
There are some cars you can't make Fast....For everything else there's MuscleCars.
#9
Launching!
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[quote]Originally posted by Patman:
<strong>For the free mods, don't forget about the raising of the stock airbox and the timing tricker too.</strong><hr></blockquote>
How do I raise the stock airbox, I already have an mti lid so I don't know if this is relevant. Also, for the timing tricker...I live in MN so I don't think 57* is cold enough for me...haha!
<strong>For the free mods, don't forget about the raising of the stock airbox and the timing tricker too.</strong><hr></blockquote>
How do I raise the stock airbox, I already have an mti lid so I don't know if this is relevant. Also, for the timing tricker...I live in MN so I don't think 57* is cold enough for me...haha!
#11
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[quote]Originally posted by Jacobi:
<strong>Would the MAFT do much for my car, mods in sig, I do have SLP's coming for christmas I think.</strong><hr></blockquote>
you need to use ATAP and look at your o2's or have a wideband reading to know if A/F is out of whack. If it is rich, ported MAF ends will lean you back out. Bottom line is that there is no guarantee you will need a MAFT. However, they are in pretty high demand so the reasale market is pretty good if you try it.
A set of drag radials could cut .2 easily off your 60' and give you an excellent return on your money.
<strong>Would the MAFT do much for my car, mods in sig, I do have SLP's coming for christmas I think.</strong><hr></blockquote>
you need to use ATAP and look at your o2's or have a wideband reading to know if A/F is out of whack. If it is rich, ported MAF ends will lean you back out. Bottom line is that there is no guarantee you will need a MAFT. However, they are in pretty high demand so the reasale market is pretty good if you try it.
A set of drag radials could cut .2 easily off your 60' and give you an excellent return on your money.
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my experience with the g-tech is that it's pretty accurate - I ran several times at the track and compared the gtech to the chrondeks; once you allow for rollout, it's pretty consistent. As far as HP readings, they seem to fluctuate a bit depending on how hard you launch; better to average a few readings.
A good way to get some hard numbers to see if a particular mod is really doing anything for you.
<img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[Burnout]" />
A good way to get some hard numbers to see if a particular mod is really doing anything for you.
<img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[Burnout]" />
#13
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[quote]Originally posted by Jacobi:
<strong>
How do I raise the stock airbox, I already have an mti lid so I don't know if this is relevant. Also, for the timing tricker...I live in MN so I don't think 57* is cold enough for me...haha!</strong><hr></blockquote>
I actually should have worded that differently, I should have said "raising the lower airbox" so that means even with an MTI lid you can still benefit. Just take the lower airbox off and put a few washers in there to raise it up about a 1/4 to a 1/2".
<strong>
How do I raise the stock airbox, I already have an mti lid so I don't know if this is relevant. Also, for the timing tricker...I live in MN so I don't think 57* is cold enough for me...haha!</strong><hr></blockquote>
I actually should have worded that differently, I should have said "raising the lower airbox" so that means even with an MTI lid you can still benefit. Just take the lower airbox off and put a few washers in there to raise it up about a 1/4 to a 1/2".
#14
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Shifter
TR55 plugs
!CAGS
WS6 lower airbox for Firebird, but it's not really worth much...
SLP's 1LE sway bars
Shock Tower Brace
Locking gas cap
160 stat
SLP fan switch to use w/stat
Bake silicone hose if you don't want the Frenco Toilet hose.
Have mufflershop cut out flat section in stock Y pipe and weld in replacement pipe. Should get you the 1-3hp the SLP Y pipe is worth for about $70 instead of $200
TR55 plugs
!CAGS
WS6 lower airbox for Firebird, but it's not really worth much...
SLP's 1LE sway bars
Shock Tower Brace
Locking gas cap
160 stat
SLP fan switch to use w/stat
Bake silicone hose if you don't want the Frenco Toilet hose.
Have mufflershop cut out flat section in stock Y pipe and weld in replacement pipe. Should get you the 1-3hp the SLP Y pipe is worth for about $70 instead of $200