If I can hold my tax return until we get our bonus next month, I think I'll be able to afford a S2 h/c package finally. I'm planning on a setup form MMS. I haven't emailed them yet, but I'm pretty sure it'll be the x heads with their 224 cam. I want to know what else I should replace while I'm in there. I.E. lifters, pushrods, oil pump, timing chain. I'd also like to know where your favorite install guides are online <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0"> . Thanks.

 

It's a good idea to replace the pushrods with hardened pushrods while you have it apart. The stock lifters and timing chain are ok. A new MMS oil pump wouldn't be a bad idea, but I think it's a lot of extra labor.

 

hardened pushrods, ported oil pump should be done. I would pick up a ported TB as part of the package too (or DIY).

 

To change the oil pump? Nah. It's not hard amigo.

4 bolts holding on the pump.. one on the pick up tube. I use a magnet for that one bolt.

It's really an easy job. (IMO)

To pay labor for that job? i have no idea...seems wrong to charge a lot of money if your right there doing a cam/heads install anyways.

Good luck on the heads/cam install!

 

[quote]Originally posted by AzzHauler:
<strong> I'd also like to know where your favorite install guides are online <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0"> . Thanks.</strong><hr></blockquote>

http://ls1.fbody.com

thats where all the good looking guys put their good install guides

<img src="gr_tounge.gif" border="0">

\chris

 

ttt Anymore input?
<img src="graemlins/formula.gif" border="0" alt="[Pontiac]" />

 

Hey oil pump failure victims out there is there the possibility that your oil pump was installed without using torque wrench? It is my opinion that a aluminum oil pump could distort enough to cause pressure regulator piston to stick in its bore. It wouldnt take that much like a installer just winging it with bolt tightness. What do you guys think?

 

LS1derfull: It's possible, but I think most of the oiling problems are inherent to the LS1 oiling design itself. Just look at an old ford cleveland setup and all the things they do to those. Then look at the LS1 setup. See any similarities <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">

A new oil pump is definitely a must, but there are a few other tweaks that are done also. AFAIK the shops that are aware of these tweaks/doing them are keeping them proprietary at the moment. SAM for one has some knowledge in this area as their solid roller car is staying together turning some very hefty rpm (over 7500 - not sure on the peak).

Chris

 

cHRIS IM NOT SURE BUT DO YOU MEAN Ls1 loses oiling to rods or mains at hi rpm? This could just be case of low sump quanity of oil. The style of oil pump that Ls1 has is one of the best out there im sure problems come from mass production of pumps.Maybe you mean oil to upper end needs restricting to priority feed lower end?
Id like to know what the case is Thanks.

 

The geroter oil pump is a very good design - that's not the main issue though. It's like you said above, the main and rod bearings (esp the mains) tend to get spun at higher rpms. Quite a few of the serious cars here have done that (or worse!). The LS1 also has pretty poor oil control in general.

GM addressed these problems in the C5-R race blocks - dry sump setup, and oil restrictors for the top end.


Chris

 

I think it should be known that a good synthetic oil would help for that rare occasion of turning 7000 rpms momentarily. I have had oil pumps break off in a 8200rpm SBC that incurred no bearing damage in a 1/4mile run! Its only protecting for a short period but that could be enough to prevent LS1 bearing problems also, IMO.