383 LS1 Eagle crank and rods hitting oil pan
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My buddy has built a 383 LS1 for someone and is running into some problems with the build. He test fitted the oil pan and turned the motor by hand for clearance check and seemed ok. When he fired it up, he heard something hitting. He took it to a mechanic cuz he was tired of fooling with it (he drills oil so rebuilding engines is not top priority). That guy took the pan down and it appears the rods are hitting the pan. Reason for me posting is he and I both searched the internet looking for stroker oil pans for LS1 but came up short. I was under the impression that LS1 oil pans were sufficient for stroker engines. The setup is an Eagle 4.00" crank and 6.125" Eagle H beams. The way I understand it, everything cleared the sleeves but not the pan. No windage tray installed. Insight???
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I've have assembled a couple of ls1 and ls2 strokers with 4'" cranks with arp main studs and windage trays installed.Never had any clearance problems with the oil pans hitting.
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I assume you mean up towards the front of the pan? There was a thread on here about a month or two ago with this problem. A handful of people posted up about it in that thread...carefully notch the pan where the rods are hitting(I assume a bolt is hitting?). If I recall someone also cut out the area where the problem was and rewelded it allowing for more clearance.
These people had the bolts hitting, not the rod...is this your problem also?
These people had the bolts hitting, not the rod...is this your problem also?
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Seems like I had read that older Eagle H beams had clearence issues. Do you see this as a rod problem or an assembly problem? Is there something he might have missed? BTW, does anyone make a deep pan for the LS engine? What about the guys that run 4.25" cranks?
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Originally Posted by Beaflag VonRathburg
To tell you the truth I don't know if anyone is running a 4.250 crank that I've seen. Eagle just came out with that some what recently. Eric at HPE and Sled28 have both said that they've both only seen a few 4.250 crank cars and that they didn't last very long.
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Originally Posted by chino_man279
I assume you mean up towards the front of the pan? There was a thread on here about a month or two ago with this problem. A handful of people posted up about it in that thread...carefully notch the pan where the rods are hitting(I assume a bolt is hitting?). If I recall someone also cut out the area where the problem was and rewelded it allowing for more clearance.
These people had the bolts hitting, not the rod...is this your problem also?
These people had the bolts hitting, not the rod...is this your problem also?
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Originally Posted by dhdenney
I wasn't referring to the Eagle specifically. I know Rapid Motorsports offers a 471 LS2 and it uses a 4.25" Callies. I kinda wondered what they might be running for an oil pan.
On the original topic. Notching the pan sounds like the easiest remedy if it's only the bolts that are hitting. Which most likely it is seeing as how it probably wouldn't have run for very long if it was more than that. The other option would be to chop and reweld the pan. That seems like it would be a major pain in the *** though, especially cleaning it thoroughly enough to weld it. Did he have to clearance the windage tray? If he didn't it could be that they were contacting that? If it was contacting a lot there might be external visible clues to the pan. AKA dents, dings, etc.
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Why no windage tray installed? I had to clearance a small section of a few sleeves and shim the windage tray due to the rod bolts. That was all the clearancing needed. I am running Lunati though.
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I always try and put the pan on and covers for a little extra since we can do all necessary clearancing as sometimes the front does hit maybe every 20th pan or so. It's not that often and even most of the 4.100 Eagles I have done still clear but we do a lil clearancing usually. The 4.250 will need some work. The Callies Compstar rods do have a lil more clearance and the older rods from SCAT and Eagle are a lil worse than the new ones which have shorter bolt heads now.
BTW I like the 4.250 crank on the sleeved blocks with more sleeve length but just not on a stock iron or aluminum engine with the shorter cylinders.
BTW I like the 4.250 crank on the sleeved blocks with more sleeve length but just not on a stock iron or aluminum engine with the shorter cylinders.