Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

Good dyno results... lots of pulls!

As far as being better than a FTRA, I'll wait to its proven. FTRA has been proven by a number of people including me to produce .1 & 1 mph at the track over a lid (& FRA). I'm not knocking the FIPK. If some folks show the FIPK produces the same gain over a lid at the track on a Z28, I'd consider switching just because it is a simpler set-up with less potential negatives.

CHRISPY

I am going to get one too I think <img src="gr_grin.gif" border="0">
Thanks again for the info,
Chris

Kenny H

Lets talk about this even further. For those of us running big tranny coolers, the FTRA makes our cars run a little warm in the summer. The K&N FIPK would free up all that radiotor surface area, correct? To me, this could be a great mod. Even if the power is equal to the lid and FTRA, its a bonus because its doing it without blocking off any of the radiator. BUT my question is, it looks like the K&N FIPK might draw a lot of warm air from under the hood, as opposed to from under the car. What do you guys think of that? Where can I get one of these from, and how much?

Terry Burger

iTrader: (4)

Yeah where does the FIPK get air from?

Reboot

iTrader: (5)

They breath great on the dyno with the hood up, producing great numbers but I have yet to see the benefit of one of these units on the track. I am also curious if they're sucking hot air with the hood closed.

F8L Z71

Reboot.
All you have to do is make yourself a ghetto ram hood like I did. <img src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" border="0">

I was ATAPing while I drove around Sac yesterday and at lights my intake ait emps would rise to as much as 127deg but once moving again the air supplied directly with my ghetto ram air would drop the temps imediately back down to almost ambient air temps which yesterday was almost 70deg. I feel that without my ram mod I might not have dropped as much or as fast.

So prety much anyone with a T/A or WS6 or a functional SS/UltraZ hood could really benifit from the cold air. Stock Z28 hoods are kinda SOL. <img src="gr_sad.gif" border="0">

CHRISPY

Depends on what other mods you have done to the front as well. I have my AC out and shrouding in front of where the condensor used to sit removed. This gives a LOT more airflow around the filter area. Also you can cut a small hole in the bottom of the K&N supplied rad cover to get fresh air up from under the car. Not visible when the filter is in place. I think idling in the staging lanes in summer heat will raise the IAT's but once moving will drop them again.
Cheers,
Chris

Kenny H

[quote]Originally posted by Terry Burger:
<strong>Yeah where does the FIPK get air from?</strong><hr></blockquote>


Be careful Terry, I hope we aren't both actually agreeing on something, that would really suck....
Seriously though thats my thing Terry. On a car being dynoed with the hood open and a fan blowing on it, I can see the K&N FIPK making great power. Its sucking in air thats probably 68-70 degrees, its nice cold dense air. BUT, what about on a hot day when we are sitting in the staging lanes, then getting to the line when underhood temps are skyrocketing?

Damian

iTrader: (89)

I was actually thinking about this last night, but didn't mention it. With the hood closed on a hot day, the only place that kit can get air from would be the HOT engine. That would definately be a decrease in power. Maybe i'll stick with my SEALED lid after all <img src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" border="0"> ..

WeatherGuy

While just out looking at my car and the FIPK, I checked a few other things and think that the following *might* be true:

1) When idling in the staging lanes, a lid/FTRA and a FIPK are probably going to develop the same inlet air temperature (e.g., hot, underhood air). There is not enough air pull through the FTRA duct at idle to get around that (and it will be through a duct sitting on the radiator).

2) On launch/street takeoff, the cars with the FRA/FTRA are going to get cooler air intake before the FIPK does.

3) The metal sheet under the FIPK can be cut to match the FRA, i.e., you can get an opening under the filter that is going to bring in outside air once the car starts moving. Since it would not be sealed like the FTRA (or somewhat sealed by the lid with the FRA, it would not be as cool of air as the FTRA would get. BUT, it would definitely bring in cooler outside air to the air intake area. This combo might just work, but will have to be checked.

BigD'sZ

That 7 HP gain seems like it might be a little optimistic. Recently, I took my car in to be dynoed after some mods, but I forgot to to change filters. I had a high flow paper already in because of dusty conditions, but normally run a K&N for the dyno. Anyway I ran with the paper in and then ran with no filter at all with the lid open. The net gain was only five HP and that was with virtually no restriction back to the MAF.

CHRISPY

They are talking about totally different filter designs. Not a K&N panel filter vs the stock paper.
Chris

Terry Burger

iTrader: (4)

How do these cars dyno open MAF, or with an open fernco stuck on the end of a maf? I used to race like that in my '98, haven't tried it yet on the '01.

WeatherGuy

[quote]Originally posted by Terry Burger:
<strong>How do these cars dyno open MAF, or with an open fernco stuck on the end of a maf? I used to race like that in my '98, haven't tried it yet on the '01.</strong><hr></blockquote>

I think that it would need to be an open MAF with a *smooth* ducting connecting the MAF to the TB. I'm thinking that perhaps some of the gains with the FIPK are due to the smoother ducting compared to the stock ducting that has a ton of ridges in it. It might be a turbulence issue.

BigD'sZ

I realize that we are talking about a different filter shape. What I was trying to explain was that going from a relatively restricted filter to no filter, with the lid open I only gained 5 HP. Other things being equal I do think the smooth duct work helps.

R U A LS1

am i missing something here, or in this case it would pay to have a ram air hood? (SS/WS6 or Firehawk) to get that cool air.

BIGBOS

It doesn't really pay....the BG ram air mod is the only "ram air" setup that I could see would actually work.... <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">

The Juggernaut

iTrader: (7)

To each his own...
I don't care if anybody buys this kit.I'm not
trying to sell them.
I was skeptical about people getting 6 rwhp gains
of a lid and filter.That's why I dynoed it,
pure and simple.
I showed you MY results and provided all the info
I have.If you choose not to believe it,fine.
If you think another system works better,fine.
People who own it, love it.What more can I say?
I have all the bolt-on's.The only way for me
to get more power is Heads and cam, turbo,SC,
or nitrous.
I found a solid 6 RWHP.I'm satisfied.
365 rwhp/380 ft/tq with stock internals is
pretty impressive.

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

Getting cool air for the FIPK is easy on a formula or WS6. As noted above, a simple getto mod and you've got true ram air. Even stopped, a modded formula will probably draw air through the nostrils. The sheet metal supplied with the FIPK is probably intended to block hot air from getting to the filter. An SS is a maybe. The air has to take a 180* turn with the SS hood, a **** poor design, and no real help until the car is moving fast enough to overcome the design. On a basic Z28 is where you are most exposed to this problem.

BTW, !FRA may not be the answer. That allows a fair amount of heat up at the start of your race. Not good for A4s where the converter hit off the line makes or breaks your ET.

I8COBRA

iTrader: (56)

[quote]Originally posted by 01-Z:
<strong>To each his own...
I don't care if anybody buys this kit.I'm not
trying to sell them.
I was skeptical about people getting 6 rwhp gains
of a lid and filter.That's why I dynoed it,
pure and simple.
I showed you MY results and provided all the info
I have.If you choose not to believe it,fine.
If you think another system works better,fine.
People who own it, love it.What more can I say?
I have all the bolt-on's.The only way for me
to get more power is Heads and cam, turbo,SC,
or nitrous.
I found a solid 6 RWHP.I'm satisfied.
365 rwhp/380 ft/tq with stock internals is
pretty impressive.</strong><hr></blockquote>

Very well said <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0"> I also love mine so much that I sleep with it every night <img src="gr_grin.gif" border="0">