what clearance issues should i worry about with h/c? tea stg2 heads milled .015 and torquer 2 (232/234 .595/.598 112lsa)

 

What TEA and which gasket?

 

it will clear, but need more info like predator said.
which heads?
gasket thickness?
rocker arm?
lsa/icl?

 

what difference do the gaskets make? Which ones should i use? I just don't wanna have to notch the pistons thats all...

CNC Port LS1 5.3, 5.7, and 6.0 Head to Stage 2
Available 3.900” (5.3 and 5.7), 4.000”, and 4.125” CNC Combustion Chambers (6.0)
Competition Multi-Angle Valve Job
Blend Valve Job
Mill Heads to Customer Specs
Flow Intake and Exhaust Ports
Heads Cleaned, Set Spring Heights, Assemble, Seat Pressure, Installed Height, and Coil Bind
Ferrea 2.020 Intake Valve
Stock LS1 1.550 Exhaust Valve (REV 1.57” Exhaust Valves are also available)
Standard TEA "Gold" 1.300" dual .650" lift springs, (Comp 1.250” 921 and Comp 1.440” 978 are also available)
TEA Titanium Retainer
TEA Locators
GM Locks
GM Intake and Exhaust Valve Seals


LS1 5.3 Stage 2
Lift Intake Exhaust
.100" 67.2 57.5
.200" 140.4 110.7
.300" 207.8 168.7
.400" 252 213.2
.500" 290.3 240.8
.550" 304.1 248.7
.600" 317 254.7
straight off of TEA's site.....on top of that they have a .015 mill

 

gasket thickness plays a role, thinner moves it closer, aftermarket valves can make a difference too. you should be fine, unless you ivo is early as hell, but all in all you better check to make sure. i have heard of guys milling .030 with that cam and still having min. clearances but okay to run.

 

How do I get them checked out? What gasket should i go with? thanks

 

i use cometic stuff myself. 3.910/.051 should be fine. better have a buddy, degree it in and check ptv for you.

 

I'm having a really good shop do my install. But i wanna know ahead of time so i can get my finances in order. Would a machine shop be able to tell.

 

Clay the motor and heads. I gotta do it too. http://www.centuryperformance.com/piston2valve.asp

 

Well with Ferrea valves and a .015 mill, even with stock gaskets, I'm effraid you'll have to flycut.

 

TEA told me that if I used a cam with over 230 degrees duration I would have to notch the pistons if I used their 5.3 stage 1.5 heads with same size valves as yours and I was using the TSP Torquer cam v1 (233/233/ 595/595 112) You probably will have to notch the pistons..clay will tell the true story ..

 

 

Why are you afraid to flycut?

- Money? It's only about $200 to do it, so that excuse won't work.

- Weakens pistons. Nope. There's no evidence of a failure due to flycutting. Ringlands go before the center of the piston.

- Don't know how. It's simple. My dog could figure out how to use the tool.

- Don't want proper compression ratio and power. Fine, have a weaker car than you could. Get much less out of your hard-earned money because you refuse to get proper compression. It's your wasted money.

 

Wow, can you be anymore condescending with the guy?
What the fly cutting **** is saying here is it’s not a big deal to fly cut. It sounds worse and more expensive than it is.

- Don't want proper compression ratio and power. Fine, have a weaker car than you could. Get much less out of your hard-earned money because you refuse to get proper compression. It's your wasted money.

How does fly cutting give you proper compression?

 

I'll let the original poster ask for more explanation if he needs it.

I surely believe that a member with 3500 posts and 2 years of membership like yourself can figure out what was meant. If not, you really shouldn't be driving.

You know, you really don't need to chime in on every post I make. Get a life. Just pretend to not be pathetic for just a little while. People are always PMing me and laughing and making fun of you for you having nothing more to do. It's hilarious and sad at the same time. What a life you lead. Make your posts without following me around and flirting with me. Thanks for making me feel wanted though. I'm just not gay. Sorry to disappoint you, sweet cheeks.

 

LOl ur kidding right? It allows you the extra room to mill the head more or go with a smaller head gasket, which will up your compression. .100 inch reliefs will give you the extra room to mill the head a lot, possibly be able to take 5-6 cc's off the chamber.

 

I know. All those posts and he can't even understand how that works? I know I ask a lot of questions, but it certainly didn't take me 2 years to figure it out.

 

Damn the heads are gonna be off anyway, just flycut the pistons, its way easy when the heads are off. Flycut the pistons, then clay the engine and measure how much distance you have between the valves and pistons, and take that value and subtract .100 from it and thats how much you can safely mill the heads. This will give you your maximum DCR while still retaining the safe .100 inch clearance between pistons and valves.

I have been searching for something to tell me if my clearance is good, but in the end i am just going to have to clay the engine myself to be 100% sure. I am going for max DCRwithout hitting the pistons.

 

Yeah, you'll have to measure. I asked for a long time, and got that answer. Finally they informed me why that's the answer:
With so many parts made with varying tolerances, there's just no way to know without measuring.

 

Lucky for me though my new engine is apart and on a stand. makes life a 100 times easier. I would surely drop the motor to do a H/C swap. Waiting for my gaskets, seals, bolts, lube, blah blah to get here early this week then i can clay, mill, and install the new engine.