Need Help After LS1 Hot Cam Installation
I have the same hot start issue every so often with the hotcam - seems its not uncommon either. Have you Autotapped the car since the install? If not you may want to check your IAC counts to see if they are elevated (down below 30-35 is recommended). This can contribute to poor idle/stalling and slightly enlarging the throttle body hole will help. Also, you may find yourself running rich at WOT with the new cam, which can be alleviated with a MAFT or programming.
<small>[ April 17, 2002, 01:15 PM: Message edited by: Fulton 1 ]</small>
1) Idle is pretty lopey, and DTC P0300 (random/multiple misfire detected) will set after extended idle periods. From what I've read on this board it looks like this might be standard?
2) Idle speed seems too low and/or lean on hot restarts, making the car not want to start at all, and then once it does it will barely stay running unless given a little gas-same goes from stopping in traffic when hot. Cold starts seem to be fine.
The car runs fantastic except for the two above problems, and even those seem more like anoyances than actual problems. Also, there are no codes being set at all, other than the P0300 after extended idle periods.
Any input will be appreciated. Thanks!
Good Luck!
all last summer. This winter it acted much better. I have now installed a 160F thermostat
( free thermstat mod http://ls1info.com/article.php?sid=180 )
and added a fan switch mod and an redundant temp
gauge.
On thing I can highly recomment is the trooper mod (tm) glue a shim .022" ( is mine ) inbetween
the trottle set screw and the throttle mecanism.
go to big and you will set idle high codes..
this fixed the die at stop lights problem I was
having with AC on ..
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Pick up a T15 Torx screwdriver bit and lock it into a set of vise-grip locking needle-nosed pliers at an angle. Place the locked Torx bit into the set screw, undo the throttle cable and hold the cam back with one hand while tightening up the idle set screw underneath the throttle body. Your idle level is still controlled by the PCM, so idle speed won't increase by much, but feeding the motor more air through the throttle plate really helped to smooth the idle out. I could let it idle for 5 minutes straight without a DTC. Hope this helps!
Hopefully I can dyno it this weekend if we can keep it running...
Do make a point to Atap it (if you haven't done so already <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> ). Mine would barely run at all at first and set a P0300 right off the bat, but after enlarging the TB hole and resetting the PCM it became downright streetable (well, just remember to take it out of gear as you come to a stop if its an M6). Now, when warmed up, my IAC counts are down around 15-25 and it rarely ever wants to die anymore - even with stock idle around 800rpm. I've got about 2500 miles on the cam and for the most part it is very complacent. Every once in a while the hot starts still give it a bit of trouble and the slow parking lot maneuvers are not recommended, but other than that its no problem (this is with M6 and TB hole at 15/64" diameter and that's it).
Unfortunately due to rain, I could not dyno today.
Thanks again for all of your input!
<strong>98blackSS,
Do make a point to Atap it (if you haven't done so already <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> ). Mine would barely run at all at first and set a P0300 right off the bat, but after enlarging the TB hole and resetting the PCM it became downright streetable (well, just remember to take it out of gear as you come to a stop if its an M6). Now, when warmed up, my IAC counts are down around 15-25 and it rarely ever wants to die anymore - even with stock idle around 800rpm. I've got about 2500 miles on the cam and for the most part it is very complacent. Every once in a while the hot starts still give it a bit of trouble and the slow parking lot maneuvers are not recommended, but other than that its no problem (this is with M6 and TB hole at 15/64" diameter and that's it).</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Strange, I was under the impression that the P0300's would always be around unless you got the codes masked out with LS1edit. After drilling the TB out to 13/64 (I bought a 13/64 and a 15/64 drill bit) and setting the idle screw a TINY bit up, I no longer get any stalls or codes. Is this normal? Seems too good to be true.
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Strange, I was under the impression that the P0300's would always be around unless you got the codes masked out with LS1edit.</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I wasn't trying to imply that drilling the TB would remove the P0300 code - that is not the case - it does, however, reduce the tendancy to stall, etc. Only programming such as LS1Edit will eliminate the code as far as I know. Sorry for the confusion.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Nah, I knew what you meant <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> . I was just speaking in general - that it seemed strange that I haven't set a code since doing these two things. I assumed that the P0300 codes would always be around. Maybe I haven't driven it enough yet. I still need to check out my IAC count though just to see where it's at. Even though I haven't had it stall since, it does seem like it wants to stall in certain situations. Almost, but not quite. Maybe I'll try the 15/64 just for the hell of it.


