Crazyquik

Haven't had an oil thread in a long time have we?

What weight do you run? What climate are you in? How often do you change it? (I think TTR changes every 15 passes <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" /> ) Do you use a power adder?

If you have a built motor, how many quarts do you use? What filter are you using (1/2 quart or full quart?)

Anything I've forgotten?

J.

Sears

Mobile 1 Tri-Synthetic 10w-30/ Mobile 1 Filter (larger one)
Southern semi tropical climate
Change it after 1500miles or a couple trips to the track
No power adders. Yet. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
Oil pressure is 45psi at idle hot and 70+psi at WOT ( 2001 pump)
I haven't noticed any oil usage but I change it often.
I'm going to try out Royal Purple next oil change.

BIGBOS

Mobil 1 tri-synthetic 5w-30

I live in illinois, so its winter/summer... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

I usually change it at 2000-2500 miles... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

I will soon be running a power adder... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

I use the FRAM filter, stock size...

And I put 5.5 quarts in the motor...

DriveATransAm

im using M1 10-30 right now. it has 6K miles on the car and about 1500 or so on the current oil. I used Dino 5-30 to break it in and it was taking a quart out about every 1K miles or so.

i went road racing and a couple highway trips and a drag racing trip on the M1 10-30 and no oil loss yet <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> its a little thick, but it seems to be working well.

oh yea, i live in IL but dont drive in the snow. i do drive when its freezing out though, lol. No power adder, stock CUI.

i have jiffy lube change it because work pays for it (hey, would YOU turn down free oil <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> - i watch them change it though <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> )

<small>[ April 28, 2002, 08:18 PM: Message edited by: DriveATransAm ]</small>

TAMUz06

Mobil 1 5w30 fully syn.
Hot Texas
2500-3000 miles
6.5 quarts
AC Delco 1/2 quart filter

Silver99Z

Redline 10w30 - change after every roadcourse event but I don't drive it much for anything else. Just installed an Accusump and remote filter so now it'll take 8 quarts. Thinking of switching to Amsoil. Any comments about that oil?

Crazyquik

Ok I live in NC, coldest mornings when I will start it might be 20 degrees. It sees a lot more 90 degree days than sub freezing days. I've been running Mobil 1 5w30, should I switch to 10w30? I've got a '98 pump <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" /> Would I see more oil pressure with 10w30?

J.

RacerX

Royal Purple 10/30 in winter, 10/40 in summer. Live in Houston area. Oil pressure @ idle hot is 40psi, 2000 RPM pressure = 60 psi

AlonzoVersion 1.0

Royal purple 10w30 full synthetic and K&N oil filter.I change my oil every 2500 miles because I beat the **** out of my motor(while it was running,busted tranny).The oil still looked very clean with my heads cam setup.It is the only way to go.Never had any oil consumption issues.

Fireball

iTrader: (21)

What weight do you run?

20W-50

What climate are you in?
MD (Mid Atlantic)

How often do you change it?
3000 miles

Do you use a power adder?
Not any more <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

What filter are you using (1/2 quart or full quart?)
PF-44 (car sits too low for the longer one...scares me <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> )

Patman

That 20w50 is costing you a few horsepower Fireball, and running 10w30 won't lessen your engine's life at all.

I would definitely stay away from 5w30 under most conditions. The only time you should run it is in the winter, and only if it gets below 32F often in your area. Otherwise 10w30 is your best bet. It's the most stable oil, it uses little or no thickeners in it in order to span that viscosity range. With 5w30, it actually starts out as a 5 weight oil (and 10w30 starts out as a 10 weight) with thickeners added to keep the oil from thinning out at high temps, so over time it will shear back to the lower number. With a 5w30, it is not as stable, so it shears back quicker. Those extra thickeners end up creating more friction inside the engine too, especially when they start to wear down.

I've been asking around about the new Super Syn Mobil 1, and the oil experts are all saying it is testing very well in the wear category, it's a lot better than the TriSynthetic stuff. Those of you that were having oil burning problems with TriSynthetic might want to give this stuff a try.

I've also been hearing amazing things about Valvoline's new Maxlife oil as well. It's a dino oil, however it contains a very high content of anti wear additives and detergents, as well as a seal conditioner. So higher mileage engines can eliminate minor leaks with this stuff. It won't last as long as synthetic though, so don't try out extended intervals with it.

With a good synthetic I would recommend 5k oil changes (makes things simple to remember) Changing it at 3k is just a waste, since the oil is not worn out by then.

When I say good synthetic, I'm not talking about Castrol, Valvoline or Pennzoil, as all of those are hydrocracked, which means instead of using a group IV fully synthetic base stock, they use a highly refined petroleum base stock known as group 3. So you're paying synthetic prices in order to get a dino oil. Not good, and they won't hold up to the longer intervals as well.

Trevor @ Texas Speed & Perf.

iTrader: (3)

Royal Purple 10w-30, 6.25 qts.

AC Delco PF-59 filter

hot, humid climate

change every 2,000-2,500 miles

naturally-aspirated

ran Castrol 10w-30 dino for the first 5,000 miles

has never burned any significant amount of oil; typically no more than 1/2 qt. for each oil change, even with the beating I give it <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

<small>[ April 29, 2002, 09:13 AM: Message edited by: Trevor D ]</small>

Fireball

iTrader: (21)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Patman:
<strong>That 20w50 is costing you a few horsepower Fireball, and running 10w30 won't lessen your engine's life at all. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Agreed but I'm pushing 71K miles on my motor and I'm spinning the snot out of it now...any extra oil pressure is my friend at this point <img border="0" alt="[chug]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_chug.gif" />

gwj

10W-30 Mobil 1 Tri syn
Fairly warm (FL)
Change about every 4K miles
No power adders
AC PF59 filter
6 qts add @ change
Occasionally use maybe 1/4 pint of oil but not necessarily when run hard????

51K miles

Crazyquik

That 20 weight oil helps him cushion the bearings <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

I think I'll step up to 10w next time. I heard Mobil 1 was on sale at Wally World <img border="0" alt="[judgement]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_judge.gif" />

J.

Terry Burger

iTrader: (4)

I use $.99 Pep Boys 5/30 weight oil. I usually run about 1/2 quart extra (about 1/4" over the full line). I burn up around 1qt every 750 miles, so I don't bother changing the oil, just add new when it gets low. I haven't changed the filter in 6500 miles or so, so I'll probably do that soon.

I think synthetic oil is a waste of money. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

Fulton 1

iTrader: (9)

Brand/Weight: Redline 10W-30.

Climate: mild/temperate

Change interval: depends on wear (i.e. spectrographic analysis) - never more than 12 months (mileage stays low enough to where it isn't a factor for me). Using a good quality synthetic without analysis I'd stick with 3-5 months/3000-5000 miles under normal conditions.

Power Adder: nope

Filter: UPF-58

Quantity used: 6 quarts

Crazyquik

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Big Mike:
<strong>currently adding N20 <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Are you going to step up to a thicker oil when you start spraying?

Nice avatar <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

J.

Ls1 382ci SS

Mobil 1 tri-synthetic 5w-30 5.5 quartz
ac delco pf44
as soon as 382 comes in wit modded oil pump I will be going to a 10w30 synthetic wt oil. maybe stay with mobil 1 or going to royal purple.
currently oil gets changed every 2000 miles or 2 months which ever is first.
oil consumption has never been an issue and I hope it continues to be that way.

WeatherGuy

Mobil-1 15W50. Using the heavyweight oil for extra bearing cushioning, and because it never gets cold enough in Houston to need anything lighter. I will probably change about every 3000-4000 miles once I get enough miles on the new engine. Right now, I don't burn any oil when I drive normally, but can burn it quickly when I romp on it a lot.