Lane

iTrader: (1)

I've run Mobil 1 from 500 miles, changed at 1500, then 3K and every 3K since. Car has almost 21K on it. Oil pressure has always been fine and I usually need to add 1/2 to 1 quart each 3K. The oil is nasty by 3K however...

I'm in the Texas heat and am concerned about the M1 5-30 holding up. Even though the cars always ran well I'm wondering if I can improve with a different brand and a 10-30.

Any help is appreciated. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

AgaveCorvette

bah.

I live in DFW, use 0w30 mobile 1, and have never had "nasty" oil. I also change every 3000 miles and use the Mobil 1 filter.

Lane

iTrader: (1)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by AgaveCorvette:
<strong>bah.

I live in DFW, use 0w30 mobile 1, and have never had "nasty" oil. I also change every 3000 miles and use the Mobil 1 filter.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I wasn't flaming Mobile 1 and most oils will be dirty after 3K(I use M1 filters as well) so maybe 'nasty' came across the wrong way. My car has always run excellent with it.

I am just checking my options and seeing if there is any room for improvement. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

AgaveCorvette

That Royal Purple <img border="0" alt="[bullshit]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_bs.gif" /> works just fine, too. Some people swear by it but I have tried it in motors and it made no difference.

The only oil that I feel is actually BAD is Pennzoil. Every motor with Pennzoil I've torn down has "black tar" syndrome. <img border="0" alt="[barf]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_barf.gif" />

McRat

With my car Syntec has less consumption than Mobil 1 and slightly higher pressure.

I'll stick with Syntec. Oh, and I live in a hot region of CA (up to 110°) and race AutoX often which runs the temp up pretty good.

Patman

Redline does not make any oil filters, and I emailed them once to get their recommendations and they said anything will work fine.

Personally I think the OEM AC Delco filters are more than good enough, but if you feel more comfortable with an added bit of protection, the Mobil 1 filters are excellent. So are the K&Ns or the Bosch Premium too.

I'm currently running a regular AC Delco filter on mine.

AgaveCorvette

patman:

i am with you on the VI improvers... it's the only thing I don't like about running the 0w30 oil.

one q, where is a good place to have my oil analyzed?

Fulton 1

iTrader: (9)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">one q, where is a good place to have my oil analyzed?</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Check out: http://bobistheoilguy.com/terry.html

Also, Patman's link to Bobistheoilguy.com is excellent. Anybody interested in getting the most out of their oil and otherwise learning more about what they're putting into their engine should take a look.

Patman

I am of the belief that you shouldn't be running 5w30 at all in these cars, not unless you are expecting to be driving in very very cold weather. The thing I hate about 5w30s is that they tend to thin out too much at operating temp, I see this on oil analysis reports all the time. That's because they use more VI improvers, which on their own are not good because they offer no lubricating qualities whatsoever. From now on I plan on running nothing but 10w30 in my car, even though I drive it in winter too (where it can sometimes get below 0F, although not all that often admittedly)

So no matter what oil you choose, go with a 10w30 if you want longer engine life. I don't like Royal Purple although admittedly I have only seen one oil analysis so far on it (on Trevor D's car) What I didn't like was that after only 1200 miles it had already thinned out to being almost a 20 weight oil. Not good.

My personal recommendations for oils are Redline 10w30, Maxlife 10w30 and Schaeffers 10w30. All of these oils contain moly, which I believe is very important. Moly is an excellent antiwear additive which actually bonds to the metal. So when the base oil gets sheared back at high rpms (which will happen very easily in a high hp car) that moly provides a secondary barrier against metal to metal contact. It'll also provide that barrier on a cold start too. For more about moly, click here:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/moly.html

One thing I don't like about Mobil 1 is the fact that it's 10w30 and 5w30 oils start out on the very low end of the 30 weight scale. So right out of the bottle you are already running a thinner oil. (30wt oil is an oil that is between 9.3 to 12.5cst at 100c, while Mobil 1 is in the 9.7 to 9.8 range) I also am leery of this new antiwear package Mobil 1 now has, which from all accounts so far appears to not be a step forwards, but a step backwards for their oil. I'm gonna run it in my wife's car (might as well use hers as a guinea pig instead of mine!) <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> and analyze it to compare old versus new Mobil 1 (she currently has Tri-Synthetic in her car now, so I'll run it to 5k and analyze, then use the new stuff, run it to 5k, and analyze again)

<small>[ July 02, 2002, 12:15 PM: Message edited by: Patman ]</small>

Lane

iTrader: (1)

Great stuff Patman! I think I'll try Redline this time around and see how it goes. I'm also going to have this last batch of Mobil 1 analyzed.

Thanks for the replies.

Lane

iTrader: (1)

Patman: Which filter do you use with Redline or do they have one?

j-man

iTrader: (32)

hey Patman, are the oils you are talking about: redline, maxlife, and schaeffers, synthetic or blend ??

Superman

Anyone ever look into the oil additives. I wonder if they contain moly or any other godies that regular oils lack or don`t have enought of.

Patman

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by j-man:
<strong>hey Patman, are the oils you are talking about: redline, maxlife, and schaeffers, synthetic or blend ??</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Redline is a fully synthetic oil, using mostly polyol ester base stock.

Schaeffers sells a 5w30 full synthetic, but their 10w30 is actually a blend with 25% PAOs. Don't confuse this with the blends you see on store shelves, which contain only 10% group 3 hydrocracked mineral oil.

Maxlife is not marketed as such, but it uses a group 3 base oil apparently, so it's just as "synthetic" as the others that cost much more. Add the moly to that mix and it makes Maxlife a considerably better bargain than those so called synthetics. So for the low cost, you can't beat this oil. Whether or not it's a durable oil, I will find out with my oil analysis testing in my car.

Patman

It's not good to add additives to the oil, even moly, as it can upset the additive package built into the oil. This can cause increased oxidation of the oil, and lower your oil's useful service life. Plus you run the risk of having too much of a good thing. More antiwear additives aren't always good, you need just the right balance.

j-man

iTrader: (32)

thanks Patman <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

i am nearing the 500 mile mark in my 02 and was thinking of going ahead and switching to synthetic. redline looks like a good choice. keep us posted on your test results <img border="0" title="" alt="[Cool]" src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" />