Heat cycling vavlesprings before installation
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Heat cycling vavlesprings before installation
I was thinking of setting the PRC dual valve springs out on a cookie sheet and placing them in the oven for a 5 minutes at 225*F then removing them and letting them cool. Then repeat for a few cycles? Is this the same as what happens in the engine? Would this increase the life of the spings?
#2
Not sure what temp. the springs get up to while in the engine but they are coverd in oil so I would think if your going to try something like this that you would want to put them in a pan of oil.Don't know if I would want to try this.
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Modern springs don't require heat cycling. Your bigger concern should be the proper installation tool that will not scratch the outer spring surface, which are typically treated in some manner to induce a compressive residual stress. Nitriding and shot peening are two examples.
#7
I dont think that is the same thing. Do it the sure way in the car. And yes...Definitely heat cycle them before putting the car on a dyno. Any pro tuner shop will tell you that.
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Originally Posted by slt200mph
heat cycle is an old wives tale they are ready to rock and roll out of the box... beleive me I know old wives...
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Originally Posted by squealingtires
I guess my thought was an easy inexpensive way to heat cycle them without the harsh engine environment. Maybe they are heat cycled from the factory???
They are tough as hell right out of the box they are not pussies .. ..if it will make you feel better after you put them in take the car out and drive it around for a while and get it nice and warm up to operating tempature and then let it cool back to dead cold ... then take it out and run the hell out of it..
Last edited by slt200mph; 02-19-2007 at 03:39 PM.
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I was hoping for
1: an explanation as to why the springs need heat cycled at all. What is really occuring in the spring wire during these first few startups.
2: can what is occuring during these initial startups be replicated in a pot of hot oil where there is zero mechanical stress on the part thus improving the life of the part.
If its got something to do with some microscopic process process within the material and is solely due to heat then by elimitating the initial mechanical stress on the spring until the desirable heating process/transformation has occured with improve the life of the part.
1: an explanation as to why the springs need heat cycled at all. What is really occuring in the spring wire during these first few startups.
2: can what is occuring during these initial startups be replicated in a pot of hot oil where there is zero mechanical stress on the part thus improving the life of the part.
If its got something to do with some microscopic process process within the material and is solely due to heat then by elimitating the initial mechanical stress on the spring until the desirable heating process/transformation has occured with improve the life of the part.
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You're over-thinking it man. The normal way works without any issues. You'd not be saving yourself any trouble.
This reminds me of some of the bodybuilding message boards I used to get on. The skinny theorists would discuss some stupid idea all day long. An idea that MIGHT at best add 1lb of lean muscle per year. Now if they'd have been eating, lifting, or sleeping during that discussion time, they'd have put on 10lbs of lean muscle with that time. You feel me?
This reminds me of some of the bodybuilding message boards I used to get on. The skinny theorists would discuss some stupid idea all day long. An idea that MIGHT at best add 1lb of lean muscle per year. Now if they'd have been eating, lifting, or sleeping during that discussion time, they'd have put on 10lbs of lean muscle with that time. You feel me?
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Originally Posted by vettenuts
Modern springs don't require heat cycling. Your bigger concern should be the proper installation tool that will not scratch the outer spring surface, which are typically treated in some manner to induce a compressive residual stress. Nitriding and shot peening are two examples.
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Originally Posted by N4cer
You're over-thinking it man. The normal way works without any issues. You'd not be saving yourself any trouble.
This reminds me of some of the bodybuilding message boards I used to get on. The skinny theorists would discuss some stupid idea all day long. An idea that MIGHT at best add 1lb of lean muscle per year. Now if they'd have been eating, lifting, or sleeping during that discussion time, they'd have put on 10lbs of lean muscle with that time. You feel me?
This reminds me of some of the bodybuilding message boards I used to get on. The skinny theorists would discuss some stupid idea all day long. An idea that MIGHT at best add 1lb of lean muscle per year. Now if they'd have been eating, lifting, or sleeping during that discussion time, they'd have put on 10lbs of lean muscle with that time. You feel me?
#20
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Most of the new springs are of a very pure material and a lot of them are surface treated to create a residual compressive stress on the outer surface. I would guess in the older springs that the heat cycles were required to relax any local stress hot spots in a not too pure material and in a not too severe environment thus prolonging the life. Only a guess on my part though. The most important thing is to use a spring compressor that pushes on the retainer and doesn't touch or scratch the spring surface at all, this can damage the surface stress state and diminish the overall spring life.