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Heat cycle and retorque ARPs?

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Old Feb 24, 2007 | 09:56 AM
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Default Heat cycle and retorque ARPs?
I just finished installing my new heads with ARP bolts. My question is, do I need to heat cycle the car a few times then tear it down and retorque the head bolts, or will it be fine with out?


TIA, Aaron
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Old Feb 24, 2007 | 09:59 AM
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They claim you should, I did not do it on my new heads and ARP bolts. 6K on the motor now, running fine. For peace of mind it's a good idea.
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Old Feb 24, 2007 | 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by The Sad
I just finished installing my new heads with ARP bolts. My question is, do I need to heat cycle the car a few times then tear it down and retorque the head bolts, or will it be fine with out?


TIA, Aaron
it's best to do this, but very few actually do it. only if the engine were on a engine dyno, where it would be a piece of cake. i always let them sit 24hrs, then go back and check the trq. on all of them again.
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Old Apr 15, 2007 | 06:10 PM
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FYI - I heat cycled and tore one valve cover off. I tried to retorque those, but 4 were at torque, and one barely moved. I assumed the rest were OK.
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Old Apr 15, 2007 | 06:13 PM
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I have studs and didnt bother retorquing after a heat cycle. I did however check the torque a few times when the engine was sitting on the stand over the span of a few days.

What I would do is torque them like 5 ft-lbs over, that way if they lose a little torque after heat cycle they will still be within tolerance. A little extra clamping force wont hurt anything anyway.
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Old Apr 15, 2007 | 06:56 PM
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I didnt re-torque with felpro 1041's and I wound up blowing gaskets. After installing ICE Titan gaskets the THIRD time, blew the second set too, I re-torqued twice. Both retorques moved the nuts about 1/8 of a turn tighter on ARP 12 point studs and nuts. I'd never skip a retorque no matter what again.
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Old Apr 15, 2007 | 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by DAVESS02
I didnt re-torque with felpro 1041's and I wound up blowing gaskets. After installing ICE Titan gaskets the THIRD time, blew the second set too, I re-torqued twice. Both retorques moved the nuts about 1/8 of a turn tighter on ARP 12 point studs and nuts. I'd never skip a retorque no matter what again.
Like i said over torque them some on initial install and when they lose a little torque you wiull still be OK.
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Old Apr 15, 2007 | 07:24 PM
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I retorqued mine (with Cometics). No problems, but better safe than sorry.
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Old Apr 15, 2007 | 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by The Sad
FYI - I heat cycled and tore one valve cover off. I tried to retorque those, but 4 were at torque, and one barely moved. I assumed the rest were OK.
When you retorque, dont just torque them. You need to loosen the nut then retorque one at a time.
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Old Apr 15, 2007 | 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by DAVESS02
I didnt re-torque with felpro 1041's and I wound up blowing gaskets. After installing ICE Titan gaskets the THIRD time, blew the second set too, I re-torqued twice. Both retorques moved the nuts about 1/8 of a turn tighter on ARP 12 point studs and nuts. I'd never skip a retorque no matter what again.

Run factory MLS gaskets and you'd be better off.
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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by motorbuilt
Run factory MLS gaskets and you'd be better off.
Factory gaskets dont give the desired quench I wanted and the Titan ICS gaskets have far better sealing capability than the GM gaskets IMO.
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