Help me pick which heads/cam to get.
#101
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Re: Help me pick which heads/cam to get.
Mikey I am NOT running the spec listed
The cam specs r 224-224 581-581 113LSA
It has VERY fast ramping speeds and Julio needs to notch the pistons becasue of the .XXX milling of the head.We also have some trick gaskets I cant talk about...
We r shifting at 6600rpm
Running Stepped Dynatechs too.
Should make some about 415RWHP+ threw a auto?
My only problem is my big fat stomach and my 3550lbs car.
JS
The cam specs r 224-224 581-581 113LSA
It has VERY fast ramping speeds and Julio needs to notch the pistons becasue of the .XXX milling of the head.We also have some trick gaskets I cant talk about...
We r shifting at 6600rpm
Running Stepped Dynatechs too.
Should make some about 415RWHP+ threw a auto?
My only problem is my big fat stomach and my 3550lbs car.
JS
#102
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Re: Help me pick which heads/cam to get.
There is alot more to piston-to-valve clearance than just lift. Duration, ramp rates, lobe seperation, amount of material milled off the heads, valve size, etc. are important factors to consider.
FWIW, we had to notch the the pistons for intake valve clearance on my solid roller motor. Exhaust valve clearance was acceptable.
FWIW, we had to notch the the pistons for intake valve clearance on my solid roller motor. Exhaust valve clearance was acceptable.
#103
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Re: Help me pick which heads/cam to get.
[quote]Originally posted by mikey:
<strong>
I still don't understand. With a 2.055 valve, according to my math, you can only safely run a 0.560 cam on the intake side. With a 2.02 valve it's just a litte larger @ 0.570. </strong><hr></blockquote>
Jason 99 T/A pretty much covered it, but there is just to many other variables to say with xxx valve you can run xxx lift.
Heck, if I got the valve to hit peak lift at BDC I could 2 inches of lift + <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0"> <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">
But I see the point you are making, and agree with it - when you start cranking up the duration and the lift it is deifinitely something to worry about. As long as he clays the heads to check for pv clearance they should be okay though (and fly-cut if they need to).
Chris
<strong>
I still don't understand. With a 2.055 valve, according to my math, you can only safely run a 0.560 cam on the intake side. With a 2.02 valve it's just a litte larger @ 0.570. </strong><hr></blockquote>
Jason 99 T/A pretty much covered it, but there is just to many other variables to say with xxx valve you can run xxx lift.
Heck, if I got the valve to hit peak lift at BDC I could 2 inches of lift + <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0"> <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">
But I see the point you are making, and agree with it - when you start cranking up the duration and the lift it is deifinitely something to worry about. As long as he clays the heads to check for pv clearance they should be okay though (and fly-cut if they need to).
Chris
#104
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Re: Help me pick which heads/cam to get.
Mark, wassup. Nice pic, make me one. <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">
114LSA will idle better.
Make no mistake, 224/224//114 will lope. That is a pretty meaty cam.
Each cam is different. Some will require notching the pistons but it depends on the lift AND duration.
114LSA will idle better.
Make no mistake, 224/224//114 will lope. That is a pretty meaty cam.
Each cam is different. Some will require notching the pistons but it depends on the lift AND duration.
#105
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Re: Help me pick which heads/cam to get.
I'm using Ka-Tech's heads/cams stage II setup.
Totally streetable and good for a 12.1 @116 at the strip.
I'm thinking my times will be better once my new clutch is installed.
Totally streetable and good for a 12.1 @116 at the strip.
I'm thinking my times will be better once my new clutch is installed.
#106
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Re: Help me pick which heads/cam to get.
[quote]Originally posted by Pro Stock John:
<strong>Mark, wassup. Nice pic, make me one. <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">
114LSA will idle better.
Make no mistake, 224/224//114 will lope. That is a pretty meaty cam.
Each cam is different. Some will require notching the pistons but it depends on the lift AND duration.</strong><hr></blockquote>
Thanks John. Maybe if you lend those tools you offered and perhaps made yourself available if I run into a snag, I could make a picture like that for you. I'll provide the beer. <img src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
What about a 222/222 114 cam? Same power but a better chance of passing emissions?
<strong>Mark, wassup. Nice pic, make me one. <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">
114LSA will idle better.
Make no mistake, 224/224//114 will lope. That is a pretty meaty cam.
Each cam is different. Some will require notching the pistons but it depends on the lift AND duration.</strong><hr></blockquote>
Thanks John. Maybe if you lend those tools you offered and perhaps made yourself available if I run into a snag, I could make a picture like that for you. I'll provide the beer. <img src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
What about a 222/222 114 cam? Same power but a better chance of passing emissions?
#107
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Re: Help me pick which heads/cam to get.
I have the MMS 224v3.1 camshaft (its 114ls) with idle at ~900rpm in my A4. It does not lope much at all. It sounds A LOT smoother than my old 220 220 112ls camshaft.
#108
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Re: Help me pick which heads/cam to get.
[quote]Originally posted by Scott97:
<strong>I'm using Ka-Tech's heads/cams stage II setup.
Totally streetable and good for a 12.1 @116 at the strip.
I'm thinking my times will be better once my new clutch is installed.</strong><hr></blockquote>
They have great prices! How do you like their stuff?
<strong>I'm using Ka-Tech's heads/cams stage II setup.
Totally streetable and good for a 12.1 @116 at the strip.
I'm thinking my times will be better once my new clutch is installed.</strong><hr></blockquote>
They have great prices! How do you like their stuff?
#109
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Re: Help me pick which heads/cam to get.
[quote]Originally posted by Mark IXZD 150:
<strong>Just to clarify... with this cam: 224/224/.561/.561
A 112 lsa cam makes power lower in the range and would be more likely to create traction problems (street tires) whereas a 114 lsa would make the power a bit higher up which will make it easier to hook up? Is that correct?
What are the rpm differences where the power comes in?
Which one has the broader power/torque curve, the 114?
Either one will idle fine with an M6?</strong><hr></blockquote>
Both will generate enough torque to cause traction problems.
112 LSA will probably have a hair more torque below 3000 rpm. 114 LSA will probabaly hold peak HP for an extra 200 rpms on the top.
114 will have a slightly better idle, but not by a lot.
Chris B: I think Mikey's concern was with heads milled down enough to achieve the 11.2 CR, no with milder CR's.
<strong>Just to clarify... with this cam: 224/224/.561/.561
A 112 lsa cam makes power lower in the range and would be more likely to create traction problems (street tires) whereas a 114 lsa would make the power a bit higher up which will make it easier to hook up? Is that correct?
What are the rpm differences where the power comes in?
Which one has the broader power/torque curve, the 114?
Either one will idle fine with an M6?</strong><hr></blockquote>
Both will generate enough torque to cause traction problems.
112 LSA will probably have a hair more torque below 3000 rpm. 114 LSA will probabaly hold peak HP for an extra 200 rpms on the top.
114 will have a slightly better idle, but not by a lot.
Chris B: I think Mikey's concern was with heads milled down enough to achieve the 11.2 CR, no with milder CR's.
#111
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Re: Help me pick which heads/cam to get.
Lope = the noise of my car. In my sig.
230/236 duration. 110 LSA.
<img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
Note that this is through a FULL single exhaust, through a 3" dynomax superturbo muffler.
Sam
<small>[ September 24, 2002, 12:48 AM: Message edited by: 280Z28 ]</small>
230/236 duration. 110 LSA.
<img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
Note that this is through a FULL single exhaust, through a 3" dynomax superturbo muffler.
Sam
<small>[ September 24, 2002, 12:48 AM: Message edited by: 280Z28 ]</small>
#112
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Re: Help me pick which heads/cam to get.
I`m getting my car done Oct 7th. I`m in line for a set of MTI stage 2 heads 2.055-1.60. Also I`m getting a X1 cam 230 227 .591 .571 112 Also a vig 3200, 12-bolt with 3.73,FLP with cats, corsa, and 100 TNT wet shot. They help me put the package together. I`m hoping mid 11`s on motor, and mid to high 10`s on the shot. I`m also getting a T-rex fuel pump and 30lbs injectors-LS1 edit on dino. I`m hoping for 410-430rwhp on motor. I know I will lose some because of A4 and 12-Bolt. MTI is proven itself, quality and reliabilty. You pay for what you get. don`t short-cut. This is on my 2001 WS6. Good luck, I will post my numbers soon. They will dino stock, H/C, then on the juice <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_tounge.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[Firebird]" title="" src="graemlins/formula.gif" />
<small>[ September 24, 2002, 03:09 AM: Message edited by: beardWS6 ]</small>
<small>[ September 24, 2002, 03:09 AM: Message edited by: beardWS6 ]</small>
#113
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Re: Help me pick which heads/cam to get.
What about the hammer cam with a 114lsa? This seems like it would be easily able to pass emissions (a must for a daily driver) and also still maintain a bit of noticeable lope.
You would still make just as much power as the regular hammer cam (112lsa) but it'd be more spread out and a little bit higher in the rpm band.
Seems like MTI or whoever could custom grind the hammer to 114lsa.
You would still make just as much power as the regular hammer cam (112lsa) but it'd be more spread out and a little bit higher in the rpm band.
Seems like MTI or whoever could custom grind the hammer to 114lsa.