Daily driver, M6...

Trying to choose between three cams for my SS.

1. TR 230/224
2. TR 224/224 112 LSA
3. TR 224/224 114 LSA

I am running stock heads and will put on headers with the new cam (flp or hooker) I am looking for a good lope sound and good power, but not at the expense of daily drivability. Which of the three do you think would be a good choice?? I say the TR 224/224 112 LSA.

What do you all think. Hopefully i can make a phone call when I finally get off this deployment and get all this at once. Thanks. <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

<small>[ October 10, 2002, 05:05 AM: Message edited by: Viserys ]</small>

 

I vote for the 224 on a 114LSA. I have this in a 98 A4 with only a lid, MAC's and the off road pipe thru STOCK CATBACK and I put down 350 at the rear wheels with a unlocked YANK 3800.

It idles like a kitten with a small hole drilled in the Throttle body but with an M6 it should be fine. With the 114LSA you shouldnt have a problem with emissions either....if you have it.

112 will give you a better lope but rougher idle.

Maybe someone with experience on the split dur. cam will chime in.

Good luck, Stu

 

IMHO all 3 of these cams are way too big for stock heads & gears. If all you care about is dyno #'s, the 224 duration cams will make good power with stock heads. However, w/ stock gears it will be a real pig on the street. You will also need PCM mods.

I would not go higher than 220 duration, or more than .530 lift. Go w/a 112 LSA, and you'll have a nice-sounding cam that's in synch w/ your mods.

 

the TR 224/224 112 LSA is good for m6 .

Adnan

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by HITMANSS:
<strong>IMHO all 3 of these cams are way too big for stock heads & gears. If all you care about is dyno #'s, the 224 duration cams will make good power with stock heads. However, w/ stock gears it will be a real pig on the street. You will also need PCM mods.

I would not go higher than 220 duration, or more than .530 lift. Go w/a 112 LSA, and you'll have a nice-sounding cam that's in synch w/ your mods.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I agree with this. If you do not plan to open the exhaust up or do PCM tuning the 220 is an awesome cam to go with. Depends on where your headed with the car. MHO

 

the TR224 112 will be great. I changed cams as much at PatrickG changes converters,lol.I currently have the tr230/224, it performs really well but daily driver is not good, im going now to the TR224 112.
past cams:
hotcam
218/224 560 560 114 (great street/n2o cam)
226/234 53x 54x 112 (good m6 n20 cam)
222 222 595 595 112
tr230/224
in the process of geting a diffrent cam....

<small>[ October 10, 2002, 10:57 AM: Message edited by: Grinch ]</small>

 

Here's my daily driver cam:
Custom LSM Solid roller 234/241 @ .050
.615/.605 on a 112 lsa <img border="0" alt="[devil]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_devil.gif" />
Why is everyone so afraid of solid cams? It uses valve springs up every once in a while, and needs lash adjustments every few months. Its worth it, it idles better than a big hydraulic cam and 7000+ rpm is fun

 

i have a Tr 224/224 112lsa in my car. Which is a daily driver. Idles nicely never a problem. I have stock WS6 exhuast and but down 360 somthign cant remeber exact numbers at the rear wheels. Cant go wrong with this cam in a MN6. Only mods on my car for now are the cam air lid and a ported TB. I should be picking up a set of mac's this week and hope to be in the 380's with them

 

I am installing a TR-220 114 LSA cam in a 98 TA with a 3,000 Yank, TEA or JPR heads (2.02/1.57 valves), FLP LTs, and a WS6 intake.

Just my opinion, but you don't need to go silly big with the cam especialy with a fairly stock motor.

Hell your stock cam was only 200/208 .497”/.500” 117 LSA!

 

You go too BIG, and you will be right back here asking how you can get it to stop surging and have better throttle response in heavy traffic.

Just my opinion.... Take it as you wish.

 

I have the TR220/114 cam and it is great for a daily driver. No SES lights, more power, slighly lumpy idle and did I mention that it pulls hard? But to be honest, if I had it to do over I would probably choose the TR224/114 cam.

 

The TR 220 114 is a no brainer for simpliciy. It will provide 85% - 90% of the gain of the TR 224. In an M6, a small TB adjustment and it will run smoothly. Like any cam swap A/F ratio at WOT could be off by the time you add in the effects of a lid, headers etc.

I've had a TR 224 112 and liked it. 800 - 850 rpm idle will give you a lope and not stall out.

As far as the 224 being too big for stock heads, no one has supported that theory with dyno numbers or track results. <img border="0" alt="[judgement]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_judge.gif" />
However, there are plenty of people with stock heads who have dynoed solid numbers and run awesome times with the TR 224. Also the TR ramps will idle better and produce more power than lower lift ramps, although valvetrain wear & noise will be increased.

 

I vote for the TR224/112.
Great daily driver, lots of power and sounds great.

 

I would recommend you keep duration south of 220 unless you are going to do gears. Around town in traffic you're not going to want your bottom end to get too soggy. Just my $.02. My cam below.

 

Well I have had the TR224 on 112 and the TR230/224, and the 224 would be my recommendation for a daily driver. I had the TR224 for 12k miles and it never bothered me as a daily driver. Or you might want to consider a custom Thunder cam similar to the one Patrick G is running?

Justin

 

I've had 8 cams now in my LS1's, and the 114lsa cams with a midrange duration have come out to be my favoriate (specifically, my 221/221 on a 114 with stock heads, my TR224/224 114 on ARE heads, and my 227/224 on a 114 with my GTP heads). All three of those cams were no compromises, no cam surge, no idle issues, no stalling. Get the 114lsa. The little extra lope from a 112 and the extra smell from the little bit of extra overlap will get old after a bit. But thats just my personal preference...I want the car to go fast, I dont need it to SOUND like it goes fast.

 

So, if you're looking to stay with the stock heads but will eventually change the gears (I will) and get LS1Edit dyno tuning (I will), then the TR 224 112 or 114 LSA would be an excellent choice. Is this the general consensus? I'm brand new to the whole LS1 cam swap thing. So I am trying to gather as much info as possible before I make the plunge. I also will have to meet Ca. smog in 2007.

 

If daily driver is part of the equation, here is my take:

All on a 114 LSA

No gear - B1 or TR-220 is the biggest I'd consider. I'd want at least a HPP3 or similar to bump the rev limiter up.

3.73's - TR-224 (with some $$$ set aside for tuning in case you decide you want to do that) but B1 or TR-220 are still excellent choices for better low end driveability. If limited to a HPP3 the B1 or TR-220.

4.10's - TR-224 (with some $$$ set aside for tuning in case you decide you want to do that)

BTW Paul at TR told me the following.

Idle to 1,500 rpm the TR-220 is stronger than the TR-224. With lot's of around town driving/traffic the TR-220 sounds very good.

1,500 to 5,000 rpm the TR-220 & TR-224 are equal.

5,000+ rpm the TR-224 is stronger. For a weekend warrior or car that sees lots of street action the TR-224 is the choice. Gears are good w/the bigger cam too.

For a daily driver the TR-220 over the TR-224 for lot's of daily driving IMO based on this. However, it really depends on what you want.

<small>[ October 19, 2002, 10:16 AM: Message edited by: 99 Black Bird T/A ]</small>

 

**** I was suppost to be deploying next week and gonna make some of that good hazard pay, but my mission got canceled. That sucks. Now instead of h/c I have to spray it for now. I like the 224/224 on the 112 Lsa!

 

I have the TR 224 on a 112... This cam in my opinion is awesome. Idles at 750, never stalls, lopes like a **** and runs good also. With my shitty driving and poor traction (2.160ft) I have run best of 12.5 @ 115 in the Georgia heat.....

All I had to do was drill the throttle body hole a little.