StevieZ

iTrader: (3)

After 4500 miles of hard driving, including a break in of new heads,cam oil pump and timing chain , usually seeing redline at least once a day, it is as follows

Viscosity @ 100*C - 14.1 cst

Fuel -0

soot - 0

oxidation -0

nitration -0

water -0

antifreeze -0

silicon -33

iron -61

chromium -4

aluminum -12

copper -8

lead - 5

tin -0

nickel -0

silver -0

molybdenum -257

magnesium -50

sodium -8

titanium -0

boron - 1

potassium- 4

calcium -2800

zinc -2294

barium -0

phosphorus -1491

TBN - 12

I was told the silicon is high and causing some abrasive wear although I did not mention to the lab about my new cam,heads , t-chain and oil pump . The high silicon may be because of my old K&N filter.

<small>[ October 24, 2002, 01:54 PM: Message edited by: StevieZ ]</small>

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

Laymans terms please?

ArcticWhiteLS1

yea lol i didnt take Oil 101, however i did take <img border="0" alt="[chug]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_chug.gif" /> 101, =), those #s look good, is it?

2000LS1

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by CAT3:
<strong>Laymans terms please?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I'm with stupid ^

Patman

Racing 41 is equivalent to 10w40, so with a viscosity of 14.1, it's still a 40wt, so that's good.

That high silicon is probably partially due to the K&N and could also be from the gaskets since your engine has been worked on recently. I'm leaning more towards it being from the gaskets, since overall your wear metals aren't bad across the board, just the iron.

The lab messed up on the oxidation and nitration as there is no way any oil could show zero on those numbers after 4500 miles. Some labs have problems getting these values on oils like RP and Redline though, due to the esters in their base oils, they'll show numbers like 400% oxidation, which is not possible. So instead they show zero so they don't scare the customer. If they ran a baseline analysis on unused RP, they could calibrate their equipment to show a proper oxidation and nitration number for this oil.

As I said earlier, the iron is very high! It shows that you definitely drive the car hard, but with all the moly in RP, I'm surprised it wasn't better protected. I know the LT1 will show different numbers, but my last oil analysis with cheap Maxlife 10w30 for 3300 miles showed only 5ppm of iron, and I drove the snot out of my car too.

That TBN of 12 is very good! A while back I thought that RP's racing oils wouldn't be good for street use, but I was totally wrong. With a TBN of 12 this oil has great TBN retention and can go long intervals while maintaining good acid fighting ability. It's got a good dose of calcium to keep the engine clean also.

It's definitely not an API certified oil though, not with that level of phosphorus. To be API certified it would have to be under 1000ppm (on fresh oil) This is a good thing though, those higher levels of zinc and phosphorus help keep engine wear lower.

In a few weeks I'm going to be putting in 5w30 RP into my wife's 2000 Civic. Royal Purple is sending me the oil for free to test it out (since I have been bashing it so much on the net, they wanted me to try it for myself to see if I can get better results, and if so I'll eat my shoe) <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

So overall, I'd say this is a good report, the only thing that really scares me is that high iron content. Copper is very low for an LS1, they are usually very high, although that's mainly on brand new LS1s also. I'm interested to see your next interval, to see if the silicon comes down. If you get rid of the K&N air filter and go to a paper one or foam one, you'll definitely see lower silicon.

StevieZ

iTrader: (3)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif"> As I said earlier, the iron is very high! It shows that you definitely drive the car hard, but with all the moly in RP, I'm surprised it wasn't better protected. I know the LT1 will show different numbers, but my last oil analysis with cheap Maxlife 10w30 for 3300 miles showed only 5ppm of iron, and I drove the snot out of my car too. </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Patman , don't forget that the entire top end of the motor was done before this oil change and a new cam along with a new chain and timing gears (and brand new heads) could definitely contribute towards a higher iron ppm.

Patman

That is true, those new parts are definitely going to give off more wear metals. I just wonder why it's mostly iron, and not aluminum?

Your next oil analysis will be interesting, how far are you going to run the RP next time? Be sure to post the results.

I must admit that I haven't seen any good Royal Purple results in the past, but I also know that their new SL formulations are showing better technical data numbers, so I think the latest stuff should be a vast improvement. I notice they use more moly now, which is definitely a good thing. I'm very eager to test out Royal Purple in my wife's car, I just wish my free oil would hurry up and show up! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

StevieZ

iTrader: (3)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif"> That is true, those new parts are definitely going to give off more wear metals. I just wonder why it's mostly iron, and not aluminum? </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">"Iron (Fe): This can come from many places in the engine such as liners, camshafts, crankshaft, valve train, timing gears, etc." - quote from bobistheoilguy oil analysis history.

PS: Next interval won't happen with this motor because there will be a new short block being installed this winter. Check bottom of sig

<small>[ October 25, 2002, 10:59 AM: Message edited by: StevieZ ]</small>

Fenris Ulf

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Patman:
<strong>It's definitely not an API certified oil though, not with that level of phosphorus. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Are the ISO requirements the same?

Patman

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Fenris Ulf:
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Patman:
<strong>It's definitely not an API certified oil though, not with that level of phosphorus. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Are the ISO requirements the same?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I'm really not that familiar with the ISO standards, but I could find out more info on it.

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

StevieZ and Patman, where do you get the analysis done, how much to do it?

Also, if RP isn't that great, then what oil is really protective for an engine that see's 1/4mi duty nearly every week-end and then daily driver on top of it?

Has anyone used MAO from BG? I heard a friend talk about it being a really good additive during oil changes and all the IMHO stuff. I am trying it now, guess I really wont know w/out a before and after oil analysis group for comparing. Anyway, anyone with info or experience please chime in.

TIA, Charlie.

Patman

Here is who I use for oil analysis:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/terry.html

I'm not saying RP isn't that great, as a matter of fact it should do just fine. For a hard driven car you can run this stuff, Redline, or Mobil 1 and they will show relatively similar results. I favor oils with moly in them for hard driving, because when the oil gets sheared back at high rpm, the moly provides a secondary layer of protection. Redline does have the most moly in it though, so it may show marginally better results.

Also, I asked around about ISO, and it doesn't look like they have any sort of oil standards such as the API. ISO is more for the different companies out there, and their own internal quality standards.

<small>[ October 26, 2002, 04:52 AM: Message edited by: Patman ]</small>

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

PATMAN have you ever worked on the Northern Slopes, a.k.a. Alaska Pipeline in Barrow Point area? I had a flash from when I was stationed there how these Slope workers would sit in the local bars and chat about oil and sh*t. Not wierd, just well knowledged I guess. Thanks for the info, will keep this in mind for the next change, and I seen your reply on the filter experts needed thread.
Question: Does the Syntec and other synthetics or blend really hold up so much better than Dino oil? Asking for wifes car, change it every 3k so does it really matter-4cyl, grand am BTW.

Charlie.

Patman

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by CAT3:
<strong>PATMAN have you ever worked on the Northern Slopes, a.k.a. Alaska Pipeline in Barrow Point area? I had a flash from when I was stationed there how these Slope workers would sit in the local bars and chat about oil and sh*t. Not wierd, just well knowledged I guess. Thanks for the info, will keep this in mind for the next change, and I seen your reply on the filter experts needed thread.
Question: Does the Syntec and other synthetics or blend really hold up so much better than Dino oil? Asking for wifes car, change it every 3k so does it really matter-4cyl, grand am BTW.

Charlie.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Nope, I never did work on the Alaska Pipeline, or anything like that. I've always worked here in Toronto, in the printing industry (working in Photoshop and doing scanning)

If you're gonna change oil every 3k you might as well stick with dino oil.

Syntec isn't really synthetic oil, and believe it or not it doesn't seem to hold up as well as Castrol's cheaper GTX! When you're talking real synthetics like Mobil 1, Redline, Royal Purple, Amsoil, then yes, they hold up much longer, they'll easily go 10k between changes.

The store bought blends are a joke, they perform pretty much the same as dino oils but cost more. A real scam. The only good blend out there is Schaeffer oil, as it's a strong 30% PAO blend that has proven to last 10k. The store bought commercial blends are only 10% synthetic, but not the real synthetic but the group 3 hydrocracked petroleum.

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

PATMAN, you know your sh*t! Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

Charlie.