hammertime

iTrader: (1)

Great thread, glad to see it has been sticky-fied!

I don't know if anyone is interested in more reading (as if 100 posts isn't enough) I thought I'd share some discussion I generated a few months ago.

How many have de-modded or considering?

There is a lot of power to be made with the right combination of parts if our brain can push our ego aside long enough to make the right choices.

1CAMWNDR

iTrader: (21)

Well I just got a line on some Manley springs with better open and closed pressure than the Comp 918s, so scratch the LS6 spring idea. These springs are good to .575" Manley says, so the 226° .570" 230° .573" is a go when I get a few more pennies saved .
That will get me IVO of 4° and IVC of 42° at .050" and EVO of 44° and EVC of 6° at .050".
That will have overlap slightly biased to intake which will pull longer after peak power. It will also have ASA like overlap of 63° at .006" and 10° at .050" for a shaker of an idle .

Nautilus

iTrader: (15)

Great thread... I just picked up a new Ls1 f-body and this has been running through my head for the last few weeks. This thread just made me more positive about what I want. It will be a street car with weekend track use for fun. I'm probably going with a set of Ported LS6 heads and a 224 cam... It's not breaking any new ground or setting records, but it's been proven over and over to produce good numbers on the dyno, at the track and maintains good drivability on the street.

john563

iTrader: (17)

Thats what i got a tr224/112 and 5.3heads makes for great driveability and decent power.417rwhp 407rwt in an stalled A4

Dom

iTrader: (2)

What cam would be good for the street? Stock 00 heads, LS6 intake, LTs w/ORY, 3600stall, 3.23s. I don't care about peak hp numbers just want to kick *** on the street. I go to the track like twice a year. I don't want a lopey idle. Mean idle is fine. I just don't want the car shaking at every light. I have been considering TR230, TSP 228, 230/230. If one of those cams will do it, I need help with LSA and advance/retard. I'm thinking of shifting at 6500 max. I will have 100K this summer and want to keep the bottom end stock. I will get new springs/pushrods/oil pump/timing chain/etc with the cam.

Intelman34

This thread has now made me happy with my purchase of a 224/228 .581/.588 114 LSA cam....

I thought it was too small after reading all these other threads, but it seems like it will work well for what I need.

melchoir

iTrader: (4)

I had previously wanted to go 228/232 .588/592 112+4LSA, but this thread has really pushed me towards a TR224.

SideStep

I am a firm believer in getting the best heads you afford and going small on the cam... let the other parts (heads, intake, exhaust) do the bulk of the work...

Warbird98

iTrader: (1)

This is what I'm trying to do with my setup. Show people that good heads and a smaller cam can be fast. My car is not a DD but its not a drag car either its a street car and I dont want it to be a pnta to drive. Id like 400+ HP at 3000-5000rpm not 7000rpm.

HTX

iTrader: (1)

I appreciate this thread because I am kinda new to internal engine work. But the only thing I dont understand is why are people worrying about low end power. I have a VIG 3200 and even with stock internals when I race I never go below 4000rpm. (Execpt at launch)
Im not being a smart *** this is a serious question before reading this thread I was decided on a Scam but now it looks like Ill be looking into a Ccam.

Herbal Chicken

Thanks, lots of great info.

Vette_Crazy

iTrader: (2)

I am a total NOOB with this stuff. I am putting togethor an LQ9 (6.0) block for my 84 Vette Auto. Gears are 3.08. I don't drag very often but would love some great acceleration and torque. I am looking at the L92 Heads and L76 intake but am open to other options. What cams would you guys think would be ideal for this. It is not a daily driver but a weekend fun toy. A Z06 Cam is not out of the question.

Thanks

Reject

iTrader: (24)

yeah i'm going to be swapping out cam's in the next month or so, this donkey dick cam got old. i know i've read and read all of the info on here about donkey's being this this and this...but i dont learn well until i have first hand experience so needless to say i'm de-cammin'. i've actually already been looking at cam's the first week i had driven the donkey dick, i had been looking at the GT2-3 cam, and now the TR224. which one to choose...

hammertime

iTrader: (1)

Drag racing and street performance are two very different applications. If all you're doing is drag racing, then a high stall and steep gears are fine. Those two elements are a lot tougher to put up with in a car that is primarily street driven.

Camshaft selection is all about compromise. In a drag car, you trade bottom-end torque and throttle response for a stronger top-end charge (remembering that HP is a function of RPM). Without a stall converter to get the engine into its operating range, and the proper gearing to take advantage of it, performance suffers greatly. Since we only care about maximum performance in a drag car, its street manners can suffer, fuel mileage plummets

So here is the compromise for street driven cars. Choose a cam that makes the most HP on strip, where it will be used the least, or consider its primary function as transportation (for some daily) and choose a cam to make the most power in that operating range.

DJ_951

Stealing a question off the board.

Check every 12K to 20K: Answer

Running stage 2 heads with dual springs and the standard boltons for 406RWHP/397RWTQ in a stick (I think or for sake of discution)

QUESTION: At what smaller cam size would you not have to change springs at least for 100K or ever. I think you could get within atleast 10% of this. The car is stated as not raced or driven that hard.

I have seen this over and over on this board. Have all boltons and want 400 RWHP which cam. Put this monster cam is there and change springs. Someone will say a smaller cam and get ten posts calling him a wimp and you need a real cam. For 10 RWHP I would rather not change springs? 20 RWHP?? I think this is a real diservice to people on this board.

Getting a cam installed in my car. Race one or twice a year. Which cam for me?? Want 400hp.

Must get a 230ish .600ish cam. WHAT?????? The guy can't change his own springs or maybe plugs for that matter or like me really don't want too. (Rather turn wrenchs on the old iron)

I think this is a great thread but doesn't address one of the reasons to get a smaller cam besides drivablity.

We debate cams on this board all the time. What cam for 100K spring change and 400hp? What support items????

hammertime

iTrader: (1)

If I'm reading your post correctly, you want to know what cam can make 400 rwhp and have 100k durabilty. The best answer is cam and heads. Cam only, you'll never get there.

Spring life is mostly determined by how agressive the lobes are and the maximum lift achieved. Slow acting lobes and lower lift profiles will last a long time compared to XE-R and LSK lobes. I doubt you would get 400 rwhp out of 346 ci and an LS6 cam, even if you had the best flowing heads, but you'll get all the durabilty you want. You should be able to use a lazier lobe, like Comp Extreme RPM lobes, and design a cam that would work at a much lower duty cycle, reducing the stress on the springs. Those have a .006 to .050 rate of 54 instead of 49 like the XE-R lobes.

So you could run a 216/220 .524/.530 114 LSA cam and make all kinds of low end and pass emissions, but you are down about 10 HP from a more agressive grind, and at these durations, a far cry from 400 rwhp without heads.

In the end, you cannot rely on the cam to make all of your power, without compromising somwhere else. The old phrase "Speed costs money, how fast do you want to go?" comes to mind. Most people opt to make the power without heads, are willing to change (or niave about) springs when the time comes, and probably don't realize they can have a better driving package if they build 400 rwhp with great heads instead of with stock castings.

Stock Heads + low maintenance valvetrain < 400 RWHP
Stock Heads + Cam to make 400+ RWHP = less initial $$$, stiff springs, more maintenance, good tune to make it driver friendly

Aftermarket Heads + Mild Cam = more $$$, less maintenance, better driveability
Aftermarket Heads + Agressive Cam = $$$, more maintenance, potential for 450+ rwhp, good tune to make it driver friendly

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

This thread is great. I have only owned my f-body for a little over 2yrs & have spent almost every friggin day on here reading since. At first I too got caught up in the bigger cam race, but stopped myself before it got out of control.

The first cam I bought was very large compared to what I'm about to install. Luckily I got talked out of installing that big cam & sold it. I talk to some local guys & one inparticular got my attention.

He had been the fastest N/A cammed 6-speed in our entire area & he was running a 224/224 .581/.581 112 with ported stock heads. A very cheap combo compared to the bigger cams & 90mm set-ups. After talkin to him I bought my current cam which is a 224/.581 114 & a simple dry kit for when I might need it.

I would always choose power under the curve & less maintaince over a bigger cam & dyno bragging rights. Cause in the end "The bullshit stops when the hammer drops". Too many times I have seen dyno numbers not mean dick on the street or track. So I'll stick to listening to the older experienced members over following a craze anyday.

DJ_951

Example had heads but I lost it on the question.

$1000 heads + all bolt-on's (atleast the basic ones)

What cam for 100K and really close to 400rwhp?

evil02z

My 1st set-up Lunati 55005 cam 222* 230* .534 .544 on a 114 LSA. Home ported 5.3L heads, factory Z28 valves, Z06 springs, Hooker headers, Crappy crimp bend Y & I Pipe Magnaflow replacement muffler, Home ported T.B., SLP lid, K&N, free mods, mail order tune.
Made 408 RWHP & 405RWTQ on a Mustang Dyno.
With 10 bolt 4.10s & BFG Drag radials 275 40 R 17 Soft launch & shifting due to the 10 bolt
1.9 60' 12.2 @ 117.8

jed.only

iTrader: (9)

so tr230/224, tr224 , or the Comp 224/224 .581/.581 @112? which would be the better small cam for stock or mildly ported heads?